Dark Star 5.10b

 
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Temple Crag


High Sierra, California USA


Trip Report
Dark Star, Car to Car: A TR

by Buju
Friday January 28, 2011 1:21pm
It is the middle of winter, and I think we could all go for some High Sierra PSYCHE!

Last August, I got to go to Temple Crag for the first time.

After having done the Harding Route on Conness and the Red Dihedral, I became enamored with doing the Sierra "Big 4". My girlfriend and climbing partner, Robin, had been to Temple Crag before and had climbed all of the classic routes except Dark Star. This route was a dragon we both needed to slay.

We waited in line at the ranger station in Bishop to get a permit only to find the trailhead was full. We balked and tried to come up with a plan B. Robin looked at me and suggested we try it in a day. I was frankly surprised she wanted to go that huge, and knew it would be a big deal for both of us. We were going to do a DSIADCTC (Dark Star in a day car to car!)

We slept in the back of my truck at the trailhead, woke up at 4:30 AM and slogged out the 7 mile approach.

I'll let the pictures the rest of the story!

Dawn finds us up at Third Lake, where we take a rest and drink some wa...
Dawn finds us up at Third Lake, where we take a rest and drink some water
Credit: Buju

The peak looks BEAUTIFUL! Dark star runs up the big ol' buttress in th...
The peak looks BEAUTIFUL! Dark star runs up the big ol' buttress in the middle. A truly beautiful line.
Credit: Buju

We are in good spirits...
We are in good spirits...
Credit: Buju

The climb consists of two skyscraper-like towers connected by long rig...
The climb consists of two skyscraper-like towers connected by long rigelines. This is the base of the first tower, near the start of the climb. (Which we did NOT correctly locate!!!)
Credit: Buju

Here, there is a gap in the photo records. We started climbing up the wrong dihedral. After two pitches it became evident we were in fact off route (I think on Planeria...). I figured we could traverse back over to Dark Star, which we were able to do with a lot of sketchy 5.10 climbing on loose rock. Needless to say, I have VERY happy to regain the actual line!

PSYCHED to be back on route! (Notice the bags of fear under my eye...
PSYCHED to be back on route! (Notice the bags of fear under my eyes...)
Credit: Buju

High up on the first tower there is a chimney that looks all scary unt...
High up on the first tower there is a chimney that looks all scary until you enter it and find a perfect #2 handcrack in the back. It is an AMAZING feature: bombay with spectacular views out of the darkness. Definitely my favorite pitch on the route.
Credit: Buju

The view from the chimney!
The view from the chimney!
Credit: Buju

Robin leading the ridgeline between the first and second towers.
Robin leading the ridgeline between the first and second towers.
Credit: Buju

Halfway up and PSYCHED!
Halfway up and PSYCHED!
Credit: Buju

The ridge above the second tower, looking down to Third Lake.
The ridge above the second tower, looking down to Third Lake.
Credit: Buju

What a GLORIOUS feature!
What a GLORIOUS feature!
Credit: Buju

Victorious on top!
Victorious on top!
Credit: Buju

The Dark Star buttress in the setting sun. We made it back down off th...
The Dark Star buttress in the setting sun. We made it back down off the talus of the decent before dark!
Credit: Buju

We actually did not end up turning on our headlamps for another couple of miles of walking. It was about 9:30 Pm when we got back to the car after a day of almost continual movement. We were pretty wrecked but drove back up to Bishop to sleep in the Pinyon Pines.

What a SPECTACULAR climb!

  Trip Report Views: 4,870
Buju
About the Author
Buju is a big wall climber from the range of light.

Comments
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Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 28, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Shouldn't that be bus to bus? Wait, that's the Other One.


Really cool adventure! Was it as warm as it looks?

Cheers and thanks!
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
SUPER warm! I was wearing a thin fleece and a shell for most of the day.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
Thanks for all the great stuff, CLIMBING, WOOO HOOOO!!!

Now if you can just please rotate all those sideways pix.......
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
alright
I'm impressed.
Well done. What's the key to finding the correct start? Or lacking that, how would one know they're on the wrong start?

bump for what survival said. Now I've got a sore neck
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
big day, well done!
PhotogEC

climber
In front of my computer
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
NICE! No, more than that--KICKA$$!!!

--Eric
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
Nice, big smiles BUJU!

That is a big day indeed.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
Nice TR, George Lowe and I did the route a couple of years ago- the first 7 pitches were great.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
Thanks for posting the great pics. I did it in 1979, mostly direct aid up to the chimneys and we bivvied on top of the first tower. What an awesome bivvy site. Such an incredible place, the Palisades.
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
-High Traverse: The key to finding the correct start is to start in the LEFT of the two obvious dihedrals near the base. We started up the right hand one in BLATANT disregard of the topo, like a couple of doofuses.

-Branscom: We were on top of that tower thinking it would be a cool place to bivy. That must have been some tricky aid!
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
  Jan 28, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
I remember it being A2 or A3 in those days, you know, older aid ratings. Really interesting though and a fantastic setting.

Awesome job, by the way, car-to-car. Cool to be young and strong and psyched.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
  Jan 28, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
Props on the quick send. That's awesome you two!

Josh
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Jan 28, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
Sweet!
That chimney looks rad

Cheeers!
freerider

climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
good, really good, TR!
thanks
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 28, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Way to go, y'all look very happy,
Thanks for a great TR!
Matt

Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
  Jan 28, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
great day!

great job!

great TR!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Jan 28, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Wow, you two rock!

Took me years to psych up to doing it Lake to Lake!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Jan 28, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
Buju, let me get this straight, C2C plus a girlfriend
who's now done ALL FOUR celestial aretes at Temple. You are
doing well for yourself. Outstanding! :)

Bad Acronym

climber
Little Death Hollow
  Jan 28, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
Beautiful pics, thank you.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Jan 28, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
Props to you. I felt like a stud when I did the Moon Goddess car to car. Thanks for sharing.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 28, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Good call on posting in deep winter - sustenance, ah.

Cheers to what looks like a strong, talented, and happy-as-hell couple!
Brian

climber
California
  Jan 28, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
One of my favorite lines in the Sierra. How about all those cool quartz intrusions on the lower buttress?
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jan 28, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Yahoo!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jan 28, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
What a lovely climb! Thanks for sharing!

great shot from out of the chimney.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 28, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
For folks not familiar with the area, it needs to be emphasized how

BBBBBBB AAAAAA DDDDD AAAAAA SSSSSSS SSSSSS

this is. You folks are monsters!

I'm getting inspired to put Dark Star on the ticklist for this coming summer (le_bruce, pencil it in). I can't imagine pulling it off car-to-car though. Well, I can imagine it. But that is gnarly!

For most people a hike to the base of the climb and back to the car would be a good day. Then throw in ~30+ pitches of climbing if you pitch it out, plus the big descent down the backside and talus field... just outstanding.

And so happy to see smiles on top!
Zander

climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
Awesome!
Mike.

climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
This TR has it all wrapped up in a great attitude...inspiring! Super job. Way to show how it's done.
Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
  Jan 28, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
Really great effort, and nice pics! We did the route two summers ago, and although I hate to admit it, also got off route. In our case we started about 25 feet LEFT and climbed discontinuous right facing dihedrals (about 5.10c), eventually traversing right to link up with DS at the top of the second pitch. Oops!
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
Mammoth, CA
  Jan 28, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
Nice!!! Summer is only... well... at least spring break is around the corner. Let's kick some ass!
HighStepQueen

Trad climber
El Portal, CA
  Jan 28, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
Roger is the main stud - he led all the hard pitches! I didn't feel up to 15 miles of hiking, 30 pitches of climbing, AND scary leads!
I also want to point out the cute little cairn on the photo of us once we got on route - looks like someone else has gotten off route there before (Brock, maybe the cairn is yours?)! I had never seen cairns on a climb before, and found it both charming and reassuring.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jan 28, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
Kick































































Ass
NinjaChimp

climber
someplace in-between
  Jan 28, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
I've known Robin since she was 16 and I'm glad to see she still has the big smile on her face when she's out climbing. Glad you two are out there having adventures and sharing them with us all.

-Justin
Eubanks,D

Big Wall climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
High Sierra climbing is quite the adventure.

Way to style it!
Mittens

climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
siiicccckkkkkk
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 11:25pm PT
Nice! 3 down, 1 to go. This Summer!!!
gf

climber
  Jan 28, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
killer-thanks for sharing
Chateau Rico

Sport climber
Davis, CA
  Jan 29, 2011 - 02:16am PT
Well, I gotta say something. Yeah, that was a proud climb last summer, let's face it, off the charts, but I climbed with Buju tonight at the Pipeworks, in Sacramento, and he was falling off 10c's that little cuties were scooting right up! In fact, Robin, aka, High Step Queen, flashed said routes with a broken foot!
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2011 - 02:20am PT
Thanks everyone for the positivity! It was a truly spectacular climb that I'd love to do again.

Very funny, CHATEAURICO! Why not come into the living room and say that to my face????!!! Or are you still too tired from the gym?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jan 29, 2011 - 11:24am PT
Love that summit shot!

Great TR, thanks.

Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 29, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Super TR, Buju. TFPU!!! Seriously likin' it, man.
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jan 29, 2011 - 11:47am PT
Shiiit yeah!!! One you'll always remember, thanks. Going tower to tower looked ......scary!!!
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jan 29, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
Proud send and excellent TR! Give thanks for the Sierra.
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
  Jan 29, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
Fun read. Thanks.
-Paul Humphrey
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jan 29, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Awesome! Great photos.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jan 30, 2011 - 10:41am PT
Nice work !
ec

climber
ca
  Jan 30, 2011 - 11:58am PT
What's the Sierra "Big 4?"
Karen

Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
  Jan 30, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
Amazing, I so admire you two! I've just hiked up and back there in a day and it kicked my rear...

What a fun day in such a beautiful setting. Thanks for posting!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jan 30, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
Hats off to you BOTH!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jan 30, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
Dang! You and Robin have all the fun!
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
  Jan 31, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
AWESOME send, you two!!!

GvilleClimbingClub

climber
  Feb 1, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
Definetly the scary Temple climb. I remember a lot of loose rock/poor pro on the upper ridge pitches. Maybe we were not on the best line. Car to car in a day is very cool. Temple ia a serious place to climb.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Feb 1, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
Good effort you two! That's a big day.
Floridaputz

Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
  Feb 1, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
car to car ? you guys are in shape
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Feb 1, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
Nicely done.
elAndy

Trad climber
El Portal, CA
  Feb 1, 2011 - 06:04pm PT
As always, you two never fail to impress.

When are you headed back to da' valley?
Double D

climber
  Feb 1, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
Wow, very impressive feat! Looks like perfect weather too.
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
  Feb 1, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
well done kiddos. great cheesy smiles the whole way. it's great to have badass rogers/rodgers for my nephew to look up to.
peace,
jo-lynne
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Feb 7, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
Geebus, car-to-car?! Wow! Having done two of those celestials (Sun Ribbon and Venusian Blind), most decidedly NOT car-to-car, I've got some idea of how big a day that is! Impressive feat - congrats!
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Feb 8, 2011 - 01:21am PT
Dark Star.....car to car??

You guys are my heroes. That's serious stuff. Hard core.


Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Feb 8, 2011 - 11:16am PT
an inspiration--but i think the ranger at the trailhead would'a let you start at 12:01 a.m.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 8, 2011 - 11:46am PT
Hard Core. It took me took three days to get to Sam Mack meadow, 200feet up the U-Notch, rap off, and hike back to the car a couple years ago. Nobody here on Supertopo was impressed.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 8, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
hey there say, buju.... wow, what a neat share...

i will have to come back to see the pics, though... (my fault not yours---dial up) :))


very nice trip report...
best wishes to you, for more...

god bless...
:)
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Feb 23, 2011 - 09:01am PT
I love you guys. See you soon brother.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 23, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Looks like an awesome route.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 30, 2011 - 03:33am PT
Badass BUMP!
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 30, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
SWEET!!!!

Prod.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jul 30, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
Mega!
wallgumby

Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
  Aug 16, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Wow you guys made seriously good time. I'm impressed!
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Temple Crag - Dark Star 5.10b - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Second Lake.
Photo: Ryan Crochiere
Other Routes on Temple Crag
Temple Crag - Venusian Blind 5.7 - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Venusian Blind, 5.7
Temple Crag
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The route as seen from Second Lake.
Temple Crag - Sun Ribbon Arete 5.10a - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Sun Ribbon Arete, 5.10a
Temple Crag
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The route as seen from Second Lake.
Temple Crag - Moon Goddess Arete 5.8 - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Moon Goddess Arete, 5.8
Temple Crag
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The route as seen from Second Lake.