Trip Report
Chips, Fingers and a Freckled Peregrine 5.11/III FA
Tuesday September 1, 2015 9:21am
Just another day in that backcountry of the Eastside.

North Ruby Wall. Aug of 2007.

Enjoy.

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  Trip Report Views: 2,046
The Chief
About the Author
The Chief is a climber from Lurkerville east of Goldenville.

Comments
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Sep 1, 2015 - 09:53am PT
Chief,

I remember seeing this topo floating about (on Summitpost?), but great to hear the story behind it. TFPU.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 1, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
Yeah that show of great rock .
I hate you... my silly pebbles just do not add up.

Thanx
You Da Man gettin' IT done!
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
  Sep 1, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
Very nice! I added it to my to do list and I'd better start training harder now!
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
  Sep 1, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
Awesome post!
esp since some of the old info on the internet has been lost, such as on summitpost.

Looks like your route is on the right side of the ~12th photo down in this http://www.markpthomas.com/mountaineering/trip-reports/california/ruby-wall-1
captioned: Ruby Wall Middle High Res Panorama
shows how the rock is better than on the main wall further left.

We climbed the 1st pitch of some other route maybe a bit left of there. Had good rap anchors at the top of the 1st pitch mostly hand crack, which was approx. 10a/b. Above that looked like harder finger crack. Maybe it was the first pitch of Pteradon?

more Ruby Wall surfing-

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200416902/North-America-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Ruby-Wall-Cirque-Boom-Town-and-Billy-from-the-Hills

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201009902/Ruby-Peak-East-Corner Good picture of left side.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/left-east-arete/109560712

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Failures-and-Success-on-Ruby-Wall/t12057n.html
There's another good photo topo near the end of the comments on that tr.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200018003/North-America-Contiguous-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Ruby-Wall-Dont-Take-Your-Love-To-Town-Previously-Unreported

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199016901/United-States-CaliforniaSierra-Nevada-Ruby-Lake-Wall-Technical-Knockout

https://books.google.com/books?id=F5MTCgAAQBAJ&pg=PT672&dq=Ruby+Wall+Pteradon&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCcQ6AEwAWoVChMIl6-fus3WxwIVx48NCh2zdgb5#v=onepage&q=Ruby%20Wall%20Pteradon&f=false
Impaler

Social climber
San Francisco
  Sep 1, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
That's a fun short route! Thanks again for putting it up!


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Sep 1, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
Sweet looking line....looks like good stone!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 2, 2015 - 03:24am PT
Nice job chief!!!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Sep 2, 2015 - 03:50am PT
Fine-looking dihedrals
msiddens

Trad climber
  Sep 3, 2015 - 10:44am PT
Great line
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 3, 2015 - 10:50am PT
Good work men!!

Burt Bronson should be proud!
CAC

Gym climber
Clairemont
  Sep 3, 2015 - 10:52am PT
Is this an aid climb? Looks like rope is being used for upward progress in pic #4...
The Chief

climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from......
Author's Reply  Sep 3, 2015 - 11:01am PT
Negative CAC.

I am following Derek's initial lead of P2 and cleaning off all the potato chips flakes on the crux section with a wire brush in Pic 4. Every time we/I put up an FA, we/I did our best to clean the crux sections or any other section that may have an over abundance of debris or any other shet that may be a safety hazard etc. If you look closely at the photo you'll see the wire brush in my right hand.


!Kind comments ya'll ...thanks.


Am glad that some folks have gotten on this spectacular line and are enjoying it.

Cheers....
The Chief

climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from......
Author's Reply  Sep 11, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
Bumporoni///
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 11, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
Trying to get all this spray off my face! Gosh! He posts more trip reports than veetal! :)
Good one!
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Sep 12, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
Nice photos and TR, Chief.
Thanks for posting up!
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