Anduril 5.10b R

 
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Matthes Crest


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Anduril, Matthes Crest
Monday August 2, 2010 5:51pm
Inspired by this great micro-trip-report by phile:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1223197

Here's a photo-intensive and text-minimal trip report from last Thursday. Suffice to say that I battled altitude sickness all day (no puking - but close), happily let Joe lead everything, managed to replace both of my 1/4" bolts on Anduril but none of the 4 on Narsil, bailed off at the N/S summit notch, and didn't get rid of the splitting headache until I dropped all the way down to Lee Vining.

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Credit: Greg Barnes
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Credit: Greg Barnes
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Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe patiently waiting for the non-acclimatized author...
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"South Tooth" of Matthes - the west side one.
"South Tooth" of Matthes - the west side one.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Credit: Greg Barnes
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Climbers on normal Matthes Crest start, 10am 7/29/10.
Climbers on normal Matthes Crest start, 10am 7/29/10.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe roping up for Narsil.
Joe roping up for Narsil.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe leading Narsil.
Joe leading Narsil.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Credit: Greg Barnes
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Replacing a 1/4" bolt on Anduril.
Replacing a 1/4" bolt on Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe just past crux on Anduril.
Joe just past crux on Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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At the first pitch anchor on Anduril.
At the first pitch anchor on Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Pitch 2 of Anduril.
Pitch 2 of Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe at pitch 2 anchor of Anduril.
Joe at pitch 2 anchor of Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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The foot shot from pitch 2 anchor, Anduril.
The foot shot from pitch 2 anchor, Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Anduril pitch 3.
Anduril pitch 3.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Start of last pitch, Anduril.
Start of last pitch, Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Looking south from pitch 3 anchor, Anduril.
Looking south from pitch 3 anchor, Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe nearing the top of the last pitch, Anduril.
Joe nearing the top of the last pitch, Anduril.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Joe at the top of Anduril - tops out only 30' further along the crest ...
Joe at the top of Anduril - tops out only 30' further along the crest than the normal start.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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How many close-calls has this tree had with lightning?
How many close-calls has this tree had with lightning?
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Credit: Greg Barnes
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The brutal cross-country bushwhacking of the High Sierra.
The brutal cross-country bushwhacking of the High Sierra.
Credit: Greg Barnes
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Greg Barnes
About the Author
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Comments
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Aug 2, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
Seriously cool, TR, man.
Stunning scenes up there, for sure. Man, I miss Tuolumne!
And I didn't even climb there much. Thanks for the views.
Zander

climber
  Aug 2, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
Nice, great pics.
Altitude can be a royal bummer.
Zander
msiddens

Trad climber
  Aug 2, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
Sweet TR Greg and glad that you and Joe had fun. This was one of the routes I'm itching to climb before the end of the season (mine?)

Marc
pvalchev

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Aug 2, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
Ha, we just did this on Saturday! Thanks for the route!

The rock quality, position and exposure make it worth humping a rope & gear there in my opinion, and you can't beat the sweet "descent"! I'll send you our small notes on the topo/grades directly.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Aug 2, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
Wow, looks cool !
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Aug 2, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
thanks for the photos Greg and excellent job putting these routes up. Narsil is super fun and Anduril a superior alternative to the standard Matthes start. so many options, crack, stem, face, knobs in an unparalleled setting. great time as always.
many props...
Go
Matthes Crest - Anduril 5.10b R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Matthes Crest
Matthes Crest - Traverse from South to North 5.7 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Traverse from South to North, 5.7
Matthes Crest
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The Matthes Crest traverse starts at the south end (right) and follows the cockscomb north.
Matthes Crest - Narsil 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Narsil, 5.10c
Matthes Crest
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