Anduril, Matthes Crest 5.10b R


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 5-9 hours
Approach time: 3-4 hours
Descent time: 2-3 hours
Number of pitches: 4
Height of route: 500' (length is 1 mile)
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Florence Scholl, Maki Grossnick, September 2007.

A cool new route up the east face of the south end of Matthes Crest, Anduril offers a more challenging start to the majestic Matthes Crest south-to-north traverse. Anduril has lots of featured fins, stemming, and knobby face climbing with tremendous exposure in a wild setting.

The first 3 pitches have bolted anchors, and with the combination of face climbing and spaced pro in cracks, a light rack and a good supply of long draws are sufficient.

While not particularly runout, Anduril has several sections with runout 5.8 and a few harder sections with slightly poor pro. While there are short sections of offwidth, all but a couple short wide crack sections are avoided by climbing featured fins.
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Tuolumne Free Climbs
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The route starts from the lower ledge at the edge of the drop-off. If the ledge has a belay bolt, you are too high (the ledge with the belay bolt is the start of Narsil). The first pitch is the crux, with runout face climbing off the deck, flakes, and two small roofs. Two bolts protect the crux second roof.

The second pitch starts with a handcrack and fin, then transfers left to a slightly runout bit up double fins to a flared shallow hand crack and a bolted belay.

The third pitch climbs up and then steps dow...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 25, 2003
Matthes Crest - Anduril 5.10b R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Matthes Crest
Matthes Crest - Traverse from South to North 5.7 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Traverse from South to North, 5.7
Matthes Crest
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The Matthes Crest traverse starts at the south end (right) and follows the cockscomb north.
Matthes Crest - Narsil 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Narsil, 5.10c
Matthes Crest
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