Anduril, Matthes Crest 5.10b R
Avg time to climb route: 5-9 hours
Approach time: 3-4 hours
Descent time: 2-3 hours
Number of pitches: 4
Height of route: 500' (length is 1 mile)
OverviewFA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Florence Scholl, Maki Grossnick, September 2007.
A cool new route up the east face of the south end of Matthes Crest, Anduril offers a more challenging start to the majestic Matthes Crest south-to-north traverse. Anduril has lots of featured fins, stemming, and knobby face climbing with tremendous exposure in a wild setting.
The first 3 pitches have bolted anchors, and with the combination of face climbing and spaced pro in cracks, a light rack and a good supply of long draws are sufficient.
While not particularly runout, Anduril has several sections with runout 5.8 and a few harder sections with slightly poor pro. While there are short sections of offwidth, all but a couple short wide crack sections are avoided by climbing featured fins.
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The second pitch starts with a handcrack and fin, then transfers left to a slightly runout bit up double fins to a flared shallow hand crack and a bolted belay.
The third pitch climbs up and then steps down right, and reachy climbing (slung horn for pro) gains a flared chimney between fins. A bolt protects the stemming/arÍte climbing up to a handcrack and a bolted anchor on a ledge to the right.
The last pitch climbs up neat grey and gold rock, then walks right on a two-foot ledge, and climbs the featured arÍte/fin, stemming back left occasionally for pro. At the very top of the pitch, just before reaching the crest, take care to avoid large loose blocks on the left.
Anduril sees morning to early afternoon sun.
Donít try to rappel the route after Pitch 2, due to the traversing nature of the route and many rope-catching spikes and notches below the route. It is possible to retreat from the summit by climbing left and down a rope-length (south) from the notch, then by leaving slings, rappel to horns down the usual start of Matthes Crest. However, there are many horns and such a rappel has a high chance of getting the rope stuck.
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