East Buttress 5.10b

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
A few photos from the East Buttress - Sunday 3/22
Monday March 23, 2015 8:48am
We woke up at the comparatively late hour of 6:30 and were the third party of three on the route. It was a slow-paced day, but lovely nonetheless. We were using the fish topo, but ended up doing a mix of it and the supertopo. We definitely agreed with Russ that the sixth pitch was the true crux of the route, especially with our single #3. Next time, we would break it in to two pitches as per the supertopo. Also, it seems that we mostly stayed around the OW (with lots of mixed face climbing and stemming). Does the sixth pitch face climbing variation go radically further left or were we on it?

We saw a few drops from the falls during the height of the afternoon thermals, but the route is absolutely good to go.

The descent was the easiest I've ever had from El Cap - maybe because I wasn't carrying a haul bag (duh) or maybe because all the fixed lines are new and in good condition. Additionally, there are two extra fixed lines continuing down after the usual raps end. These can either be batmanned or rapped, but either way they get you down past all of the difficulties and right to the path. Quite the luxury!

To the party ahead of us: hope you made it down before it got too dark. Also, I can send you the original of the photos I took of you if you would like.

View from the base of the East Buttress.  It never gets old.
View from the base of the East Buttress. It never gets old.
Credit: aliebling

Tomas ensures that El Cap stays upright
Tomas ensures that El Cap stays upright
Credit: aliebling

Tomas waiting half way through the eighth pitch (FISH topo)
Tomas waiting half way through the eighth pitch (FISH topo)
Credit: aliebling

The party ahead of us with Half Dome in the background.
The party ahead of us with Half Dome in the background.
Credit: aliebling

  Trip Report Views: 2,213
aliebling
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Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  Mar 23, 2015 - 09:01am PT
Looks like a fun day in the Sun! Thanks for sharing the photos.

Rich Jones
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Mar 23, 2015 - 09:21am PT
Also, it seems that we mostly stayed around the OW (with lots of mixed face climbing and stemming). Does the sixth pitch face climbing variation go radically further left or were we on it?
The standard face variation is far enough away from the corner that you can't place gear in the corner. (There is plenty of gear in cracks on the variation after the start, though).
El Capitan - East Buttress - pitch 9 face vs. ow. <br/>
&#40;pitch numberi...
El Capitan - East Buttress - pitch 9 face vs. ow.
(pitch numbering as per Reid topo)
Credit: xRez / Clint Cummins
L

climber
And I'm searchin' for waterspouts...
  Mar 23, 2015 - 10:43am PT
Nice little TR.

Thanks for posting it!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 23, 2015 - 10:59am PT
Cool shot

crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Mar 23, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
Nice work!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 23, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
Nice day, nice photos, and nice trip report. Thanks.

John
Rill

Mountain climber
Ireland
  Mar 27, 2015 - 10:47am PT
Nice L@@King trip!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Mar 28, 2015 - 06:43pm PT
//BUMP /Saterday night//

(not that) I was waiting for tomorrow, but it dropped like a stone??
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El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
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Photo: Mark Kroese
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