Trip Report
2018-01 Pat and Jack Pinnacles via Superslacker Highway
Monday January 29, 2018 3:49pm
Many moons have seen me deeply ensconced in the folds of my couch. Given my decrepitude, the plan called for an easy (5.6-8ish) adventure to a minor summit in the valley. Moisture, short days, and EAP (epic-avoidance protocol) advised a down-valley alternative. This pushed us into the 5.10 range, and to avert scrotal inversion, I accepted le_bruce's offer to lead everything.

Here's a report of him on this same route a few years before:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Super-Slacker-Highway-killer-winter-climb-to-pillar-summit/t11870n.html

P1 follows Knob Job, continues up and left on a knobby face, and you see this from the belay:


P2 continues up a beautiful corner crack, to glorious overhanging choose-your-own-adventure jugs:






This leads to a great hanging belay:




Which inspired some goofing around:








Next pitch is a cool short face that ends in a delicate move straight into a tricky mantel. I got through the delicate move and hoped for something positive to materialize, and then got stuck mid-mantel out of juice and in an awkward position. I yarded on a bolt or a sling or something to keep moving.





Views of Cookie Sheet, Tales of Power, Separate Reality:



My mug, views down valley with part of Elephant area:


Selfie between the pinnacles, with a hard-to-spot waterfall in the background:


Better view of the waterfall:




I didn't even tip my guide (or pay him):


I think this is the moment he realizes I'm not going to pay him.


I should start a gofundme to get some new shoes. I might break into the 5.11 range if only I wasn't so disadvantaged in life:


Left-side of the pinnacles looks like a great easy chimney climb:


But assume you'll be building your own anchors and use a different rap route:





Last pitch is a really fun crack, to a platform right before the final block of the pinnacle summit. I was focusing on how to climb this arete that looked borderline impossible for me, marveling that Bryce made it up without much fanfare, and then it occurred to me there is a wall right behind for a simple chimney. After face-climbing in SoCal, and too little time in Yosemite, I even forget to even think about chimney as an option! But it's a fun finish with a slow transition from back/knee to back/feet, and I flop over the top with a somersault tumble to much aplomb.



The view encompasses upper Cookie Cliff and Cookie Sheet, Elephant', all the way past Rostrum and Reed's and Leaning Tower and the Cathedrals. Not a bad spot!










I'm available for perfume ad modeling (strictly the high end stuff):





And then there's this thing:


Well, we're gonna go sit there too. But first a placeholder for the shadow selfie thread:


Some brainstorming...


And the plan is to do it rap-assisted:



























Chillin' on the lower pinnacle:




The rap situation from the lower pinnacle (we just did a little hop to the previous belay station):


to here:


Not too shabby of a day back! After I dropped off le_bruce with his family, I stopped on top of the Rostrum area and wandered around as it got dark. Final artsy shot:



Good times.
















  Trip Report Views: 2,076
NutAgain!
About the Author
NutAgain! is a trad climber from South Pasadena, CA.

Comments
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Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Jan 29, 2018 - 04:14pm PT
Nice.


That third pitch sure is a rope stretcher...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 29, 2018 - 04:18pm PT
Thanks again Nutjob👍👊👏
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
  Jan 29, 2018 - 07:38pm PT
Fun TR, thanks!

Looks a bit different from the FA, but fun to see the summit again!

WM
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jan 29, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
Best TR ever, for a little while at least. And a compliment from FC^. !!!!!

Thanks Guys.
Darwin
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jan 29, 2018 - 07:57pm PT
Cool TR.
TFPU Nut,
Tad
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jan 29, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
Looks like a blast
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  Jan 29, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
good that you back Scott with Bryce. Instead of being pouty for not getting any tips [ hilarious picture] you both should train and go for Astroman before next election. Remember what happened when you refused to climb A-man it in 2016?
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
  Jan 30, 2018 - 05:58am PT
What a wonderful way to spend a day! Thanks for sharing, Nut. Nice pics too.
cheers
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
  Jan 30, 2018 - 06:40am PT
TFPU!

@ Fossil Climber:

Tell us a story of the FA? Why did you call it Pat Pinnacle, Ser Merry?
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Jan 30, 2018 - 08:19am PT
Cool to see the top. Ran out of daylight trying to run up this after work last summer. Made it to the notch, but just havent had a chance to go back. Thanks for the cool TR.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Jan 30, 2018 - 08:32am PT
Owns a new 4x4 Mercedes Sprinter Van but can't afford a new pair of climbing shoes??
Nice TR
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jan 30, 2018 - 11:11am PT
Le_Bruce's side burns are THICK.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Jan 30, 2018 - 02:41pm PT
Nice ! Thanks for the mid winter , sunny climbing stoke.
Love seeing those ancient anchors .. we used to trust that
stuff.
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Jan 30, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
I love this route! I've done it twice and it's great fun! Another wonderful contribution by Dan McDevitt, thanks Dan!
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Jan 30, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
Previous belay station above looks pretty sketchy
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 30, 2018 - 05:54pm PT
Good stuff Scott only question is how did two men this conventionally good looking end up on same team?

Alexey the only thing I'm responsible for having caused in the entire year of 2016 is upping by 1 the sales numbers for John Legend's hit album darkness and light. Plus I did get on Astroman. See how f'd up I look in these photos? 80% due to that day then 20% genetics.

Grippa don't, just don't. Can't you see when a man has suffered enough pain and ridicule in his life
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Jan 31, 2018 - 10:17am PT
Here ya go Scott, an eco friendly pair of Mythos to replace yer broke dick pair you are currently wearing.
https://www.rei.com/blog/news/the-root-award-2018
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
Alright batrock, you've finally shamed me into it.
I broke down and bought a new pair, even the Eco version!
5.11 here I come baby ;)

First time I'm ordering from Gear Coop, same price as REI but free shipping and they don't pass the sales tax on to the customers.

p.s. Alexey, 2016 is not my fault! But I will eventually get to Astroman. Starting a gym routine again with wifey, and will get le_bruce to haul me up Rostrum this year. Heck I might even be ready to lead something by then.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  Jan 31, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
good, so there is a hope that Trump won't be reelected
But you both need to try hard together to make it happen.. ;-)
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Jan 31, 2018 - 02:40pm PT
Nice Scott, let me know when you wanna climb.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
  Feb 4, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
That was quite the crack in that rusty bolt hangar!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Feb 21, 2018 - 09:08am PT
Da Brim!
Mazzystr

Gym climber
Homeless...
  Feb 21, 2018 - 09:36am PT
Bryce are you getting gray??
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 21, 2018 - 11:29am PT
It was a photography learning day for me... I figured out that iPhone photo-stitching pano mode with a wide angle background does not mix nicely with foreground subjects close to the lens. There are odd little artifacts and stretching of the foreground that mostly looks normal but it leaves you scratching your head and noting that something isn't right.

But that grayness... just plain getting old hombre!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Feb 21, 2018 - 11:47am PT
I was wondering what le_bruce was up to.
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