Trip Report
Super Slacker Highway - killer winter climb to pillar summit
Tuesday March 12, 2013 1:20pm
Here's a TR inspired by Ed H's recent writeup.

After a good attempt on the excellent Beyond Lunacy (here's that TR) on a Saturday in February 2012, Adam and I wanted to spend Sunday on something easier.

Lucky for us, a nice dude in the Reed's pullout -- a pullout that always seems to have nice people in it -- had a photocopy of a newish route that McTwisted had put up at Pat and Jack's. Handful of pitches, well-protected, lots of moderate climbing... sounded right, so we took a photo of his topo blasted out to P & J's.

Ended up being an excellent day: mellow, safe, super fun, with great position and mostly excellent climbing that leads through good exposure to a five-star summit.

I'd definitely recommend this climb to anybody looking for a low-commitment, high fun day. It'd be especially good for folks breaking into the 5.10 grade and wanting to get some quality multi-pitch in.

We started up Knob Job and crossed over left into SSH.

Expect quality hardware all the way up

Lots of big, juggy knobs on this climb one of P&J's signatures.

Nice looking but very toothy finger crack in a dihedral

The steepness that awaits after you traverse left out of the dihedral and across a fun, open face

That face traverse protects with cams when we did it in Feb, there was a bolt nearby, but I believe the FA's intention was to go back and pull that one.

Bolt (probably extinct now) and bomber cam:

The airy belay in the steeps

Moving out of the dihedral w/ finger crack, past another finger crack, to steep jug city

And toward the roofs

Rarely is anything this steep this mellow in the Valley

See those ropes a-hanging? Not your standard slabby Valley moderate

Position: good

Next pitch moves right off of the hanging belay over beautiful features on an exposed face. If I remember right one of the crux sections is in this pitch. The bolts are tightly spaced

At the end of this traverse you make some pulls and gain the hanging fin. This is a cool feature that is fun to climb

Here's that feature, taken on our way back down

I climb with duct tape on my shoes b/c I know I won't be able to buy another pair (sad face)

After punching up through the fin, clip a comfy belay and gaze right at the crux climbing of the day, maybe a little bit sandbagged at .10a in the topo we used. Could be that features had broken off, or we were just climbing weakly that day. Felt like maybe solid 5.10 sequence instead of .10-

Figure out that crimp-to-mantle sequence (with a bolt at your waist) and you're off to the next anchor


From this next anchor you can go left to the notch and traverse back right (5.7, as Adam's doing in this pic), or pull hard straight above the bolts (5.11?)

On Jack's eastern side, a 5.9 dihedral with clean movement leads to a bolted chimney that spits you out on a killer pinnacle summit.

Looking down on Pat from Jack's flat-table summit:

Thanks to the FA'ists, we got to rap the pieces in the foreground instead of the piece in the background. Thanks!

Oh yeah!

Credit: le_bruce

  Trip Report Views: 3,351
About the Author
le_bruce is a climber from Oakland: what's not to love?.

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Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Mar 12, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Righteous. Looks like a great route in a stellar locale. Thaks for the great report and photos.

  Mar 12, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
Awesome man! Wicked report & so many good shots of the climb, wow.

  Mar 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
that route looks fun as hell. nice TR and pics, le_bruce
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 12, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Thank you for another great TR. I want to get on this one and Beyond Lunacy sometime this spring! Where do I find a topo?

Oakland, CA
Author's Reply  Mar 12, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
Shoot me a pm for the topo, Vitaliy

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Mar 12, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
Dood! This looks really really fun.

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Mar 12, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
ThAT looked awesome. thanks

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Mar 12, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
yeah Bruce, I agree, wouldn't argue with 10b either...

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Mar 12, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
More cool pictures of this route, thanks!

a pullout that always seems to have nice people in it

My favorite line of the TR!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 13, 2013 - 05:53pm PT

Social climber
  Mar 13, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
hey there say, le_bruce...

sorry so late to add a comment...

(is there two trip reports that you put up?)

each time i tried, i could not reply 'til all the pics
loaded and it just 'didn't happen'

however, this time it happened... and fast, too...
the new browers really helps--so not sure what the trouble was...

THANKS for the neat trip report! pics have not loaded yet,
but from the last time i tried to post, unless that was
another report by you:

the few that started were VERY VERY NICE...
a rich blue... and rock, of course...
not sure what this has...

the other trip report, IF there is one, :)) lol
looked great too....
or IS, if it perhaps is really the SAME, AND is, THIS ONE,


confusing, huh?

god bless...
love all the trip reports though, i love seeing what all the folks
are up to...

extra special pics, though, always catch my eye, too, :)

Oakland, CA
Author's Reply  Mar 21, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
Hey neebee,

Yeah it is confusing :) The other TR is from Ed H, and it's what inspired me to write this one. Ed just climbed last week or so, while my pics are from Feb last year.

I probably put too many photos in my reports. Easy to forget how long it takes to load so much data when you have city speeds like I do...

Thanks for the nice comment.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 25, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
Thank you for the link with a topo! Did this yesterday. You guys really missed out on a '5.9 flare chimney' on the western side of the pinnacle :) My steck salathe practice circuit is complete. haha
Views from the pinnacle itself are great. So is climbing usually. Too bad pitches are so short.

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Mar 25, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
What a sweet looking climb, cool formations and variety too...Thanx for sharing...


Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  Mar 26, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
so good...

great photos...
you look so happy.

T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Mar 26, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
I luv pullin knobs,
Thanks for sharing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
  Mar 27, 2013 - 02:14am PT
Cool tr dude! You're on fire lately!! As to this;

I probably put too many photos in my reports. Easy to forget how long it takes to load so much data when you have city speeds like I do...

Never!!! Neebee needs to join the 21st century and get on high speed. How can we hook her up??

Spin some of your shots too! More than a few would look excellent as portraits!

Gym climber
  Mar 27, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Very nice. Thanks!

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Mar 29, 2013 - 06:19pm PT

I did the route with Dan (McTwisted) himself. Great guy and great route!
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