Sons of Yesterday, Royal Arches Area 5.10a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.7)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
10 Total Ratings
5 star: 90%  (9)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 10%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Jeremy Hadland

Trad climber
aptos
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:23pm
 
There were no bats but a few frogs in the crack on p2. I guess some people stop at the first tree on p1? I went straight to the second tree (we had a 70m rope, not sure if a 60m will reach but probably). Second tree slightly smaller belay but ok for 2 people. Couple more pitches of very clean straight forward hand jamming to the top. The 5.10 "walk the plank" section of the last pitch takes a 0.75 green c4 the whole way across, so if you have a few comparable pieces that size bring them. Last 10 feet of last pitch gets a little wide and offwidthy but not too serious, 5.8ish (I was spent so it felt hard and my feet were done). This last section takes a #4 c4 but the #3 barely works (don't drag the #4 all the way up for just that though, wouldn't have used it anywhere else)
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PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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   Jan 23, 2013 - 01:08pm
As of January 19, there is a bat living in the crack on P2 just above the first tree growing out of the crack. I thought the odd noise was some strange bug, but when I jammed in, I hit something moist & furry, and withdrew my fingers only to see some fangs in the darkness. It freaked out every time I tried to work out a jam near it, and I couldn't flush the little guy out, so I put a cam in the crack between me and it so it couldn't bite me as I tried to climb past.

I'm curious how long that thing will hang out on the route!
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D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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   Sep 9, 2012 - 02:06pm
finally did sons this week without getting my ropes stuck! in the past, i've rapped down to the top tree of pitch 2 (the anchor station with the 2 pitons and bolt at the top of pitch 2, the off-fingers sustained crack) and have managed to get the rope stuck above us in the crack of p3 and also stuck in the tree below us (the lower tree in the middle of p2)... this time, we rapped from the bolts of p3 to that lower tree (in the middle of p2) and had no issues at all. that lower tree was mentioned as sketchy, but it looked pretty solid to us, thick trunk, green leaves, looked solid.

not sure if it was a different sequence of raps stations or just better luck... anyone have trouble with stuck ropes while rappelling??? thoughts on better rapping this route?

this time we did:
 p5 = we climbed this as if we were cragging, leader up, set quickdraws at anchor, belayed back down to start, 2nd up on TR, cleaned the anchor and rapped back to start, then we tied our ropes together and rapped from this anchor at the top of p4 to the anchors at the top of p3
 top of p3 --> past the tree at top of p2 and rapped to the tree at middle of p2... could have gone to bolts at top of p1 with 2x70m but too much rope to manage all day to make it worth it.
 tree in middle of p2 --> bottom tree between sons and serenity
 bottom tree between sons and serenity --> top of serenity p3 anchor
 serenity p3 anchor to next two rap stations to the east of the serenity route

I see from other posts that you can rap with a single 70m, but I wonder if you would have to rap off the top of p2 instead of going to that lower tree in the middle of p2, and I think it was rapping off that lower tree that helped keep our ropes from getting eaten in the crack of p3.

Thoughts???


p.s. pitch 2 makes you earn it, and is just a really interesting, thought provoking pitch that I really enjoyed… but don’t get me wrong, I was certainly tired by the top. Pitch 3 and 5 are amazing, but damn, pitch 4 is just the hands down most enjoyable pitch I have ever climbed!!! …great exposure, immaculate rock with an uninterrupted lazor-cut perfect hand sized crack, I never wanted it to end.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Oct 8, 2008 - 05:00pm
I got this bets from a supertopo user:

b. Sons of Yesterday last pitch - the rap tree burned out and it looks quite dead and rotten. We rapped from it nevertheless but it was kinda nervous.

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Kupandamingi

Trad climber
Nairobi, Kenya
May 14, 2008 - 06:54am
 
The final slanting handcrack (that ST recommends walking) isn't harder than 10a as a hand traverse - good edges, etc - and a far cry from the difficulties of the first real pitch on sons. The ST doesnt say it is harder than 10a, but seems to imply so. Combining a hand traverse part of the way and walking the crack part of the way is also a distinct (and tried) possibility. I really enjoyed this pitch, in fact all of them. Yes rap with 70 confirmed and I agree that tree isn't that sketchy, except for the fact that it is a bit of a cluster when someone is leading that pitch (we were hit by ropes and hit others with ropes on our way down)
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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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   Sep 22, 2006 - 08:10pm
You can rap from the top of Sons of Yesterday all the way to the ground with a single 70 meter rope. Some (or most?) 60 meter ropes might be a bit short. The tree in question for an intermediate rap is plenty stout for a rap and has slings and rings on it. You do more raps this way, but you are less likely to smack the parties below you with the free end if you use just the single rope.

You will get better mileage from using yellow (#2.5) Friends than from #2 Camalots. The Camalot is just a bit too big for most spots.
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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 8, 2005 - 02:46am
 
Karl wrote back in 11/2003:
> The problem with the final pitch is, it's protected by one single 1/4 inch bolt. A total spinner after a 30 foot leadout. It's one of the worst bolts anywhere in Yosemite so if anyone is feeling in the public service spirit.....

This bolt was replaced in 3/2005 by Melissa and J. Nice job!
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Orion

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Oct 4, 2004 - 05:42pm
We tried to rappel the route with one 70 meter rope and were a bit short of the P1 anchor/rap station, we used the little tree in the middle of the second pitch, like chris. I'm two bucks and my partner is a buck 50 and it held us but I don't know how many other parties this will work for.
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malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 19, 2004 - 05:24pm
 
P2 is definitely the crux of this route. The crack that you walk on p5 can definitely be protected just by leaning down and placing at your feet. (It's implied in the supertopo that you can' protect it unless you do it as a hand traverse). I agree with Karl's revised ratings for this climb. I had a hard time telling any difference at all between sections rated 5.7 and 5.9.
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Marshall

climber
bay area
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   Sep 13, 2004 - 09:58am

You can definitely rap the route with just one 60m rope, as long as it is a true sixty and you weigh at least a buck twenty.
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King Tut

Social climber
Davis
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   Jun 27, 2004 - 08:03pm
The super topo makes it seem as tho there is no pro on the 2nd. pitch of Sons (10A) at the wide pod that you lieback to gain footholds out left. Once you get established out there, there is thin splitter with an ideal mini-pod for a 1" tcu at about head height to give you perfect security for the next moves back to the crack. Save a piece for this and you will not regret it.

As this route ascends the Awahnee Buttress (named for the original locals of the valley) the original route name is actually "The Sons of Chief Tenaya Memorial Route" in honor of the same that were massacred by the U.S. military in Tenaya canyon during the invasion of the valley by euro-trash (I'm sure Vince-bo will love this...it was actually his idea to memorialize those tragically killed...he really is very sensitive, tho he's too shy to show it....SMILE VINCE :). Drew made me shorten it for being too long and grandiose, so "S of Y" it is, I guess...In remembrence of all the sons lost to futile causes.

Not the BEST route i ever dug out (if you haven't done war with hummocks ur not a real yosemite grand-dad ;), tho the peeps seem to like it...;)....u dudes should look up "Maps and Legends" for a real * classic....tho u probably don't have the nuts for the approach... "Knuckle Buster" is up Indian Canyon too, to make it worthwhile, it's also * and the ladders on the hike that are bolted onto the cliff-side are fun...Then again, there was "Moe, Larry, The Cheese!" for a real dog, if u like deserved obscurity...bring a pooper scooper..:). Ciao
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sebastian

Mountain climber
Santa Cruz, California
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   Jun 1, 2004 - 01:30pm
The topo seems to imply that you need two ropes to rappel this route. But I'm pretty sure it can be done with just one. Rapping from the top of pitch two (above the tree) you would need to set up an intermediary rappel station at another tree, I noticed there are slings already, I looked at my (double) ropes and as I was passing this the rope was just at the middle mark.

Anyone disagree with this statement?
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   Nov 15, 2003 - 11:19pm
FYI: It's possible to link the 5th pitch with the 5.8 friction 6th pitch. The problem with the final pitch is, it's protected by one single 1/4 inch bolt. A total spinner after a 30 foot leadout. It's one of the worst bolts anywhere in Yosemite so if anyone is feeling in the public service spirit.....

I'm not sure I agree with the ratings on the Supertopo. They are probably true for those with small hands. For a fat handed guy like me, The "5.9" in the middle of pitch 2 is more like 5.10, the "5.7" thin hands at the beginning of pitch 3 is 5.8+, the "5.9" steep hands on Pitch 4 is more like 5.8- but the short bulge sequence in the beginning of the pitch is 5.9. On pitch 5, the "5.9" hands is 5.7, I think you could do it with no hands. The 10a higher on that pitch is probably one of the lightest 10 sections in the valley, while the first 10a pitch down lower will spank you good!

One of my favorite routes.

Peace

Karl
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Colt45

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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   Nov 12, 2003 - 06:13pm
Just climbed Serenity/Sons yesterday, we had the entire route to ourselves! And it was warm and sunny the whole way up.

On Serenity the first half of the first pitch was wet, which made it a bit sketchy. I was able to dry the holds off enough with some chalk to get through, and the rest of the route was perfectly dry.

On every pitch, the ratings felt right on with one notable exception: pitch 2 of Sons (10a). It's steep and continuous with lots of bulges, which made it difficult to get good footholds. And, the jams felt insecure the whole way. I thought it felt closer to 10c. However I haven't climbed much in Yosemite, and may not be sufficiently familiar with the skills required on this size of crack.

I'm curious whether many people found this pitch to be similar in difficulty to the other 10a pitches on Serenity/Sons. Or would it be reasonable for me to question the rating...?
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seve

Trad climber
Australia
Apr 22, 2003 - 03:18pm
 
Thanks guys for all the beta sounds like we will give it a go when we get over there.
Once again thanks
cheers
steve
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Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 16, 2003 - 02:41pm
 
Maybe I read your post wrong...The 10d pitch is that last pitch of Serenity crack. If you have small fingers like me and can do a couple of pull-ups, it will feel like the softest 10d ever and probably will be easier that the 10b move on the second pitch. If you have fatties, you might be saying 11a, or so I'm told. The link-up pitch between the two climbs is ~5.5.
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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 16, 2003 - 02:17pm
 
Bill is right

If you called it 11a instead of 10d, I wouldn't argue since it is a bit stiff. But you get very good pro and the fall would be clean. Put a couple of pieces in from a good stance and then bust a move. It's a short crux so you are through it in no time. Good moves too.
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Bill

climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 16, 2003 - 01:42pm
 
Steve,

Yeah, it's about 10 feet of 10d. It's easy to place good gear before the crux. It's easy to place good gear in the middle of the crux too, it's just hard not to hang on it after you've placed it!

Go for it - maybe you'll have to yard on a couple of pieces or maybe you'll fire it.
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seve

Trad climber
Australia
Apr 16, 2003 - 01:24pm
 
I was just wondering if anyone could tell me what the 5.10d link up pitch between serenity crack and Sons of Yesterday. I am coming back over from Asutralia to climb in Yosemite Valley. last time I was over I was waiting to do this pitch but the person that was leading it above me was having a really hard time. I heard them talking earlier that they were a 5.12 climbing. I am only mid to high 5.11s so I choose not to try this pitch. I have heard that it is really hard to place gear,also that there is really only 10 feet of 10d if anyone could give me some really beta on this that would be great. Also if there is just another easier way to get to the bottom of Suns of yesterday.Any help would be a great help
Cheers
steve
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   Sep 1, 2002 - 05:42pm
I've seen people approaching Serenity from the left. Don't know how hard it is but it looks like a bit of a hassle.

I've tried to do an "end around" the line on Serenity by climbing all of Maxine's wall, or, just a bad, some 11c chossy, scarey finger crack over a roof after the 10c on Maxines. Both were nightmares! For Maxines, you have like three dirt hummock mantles in a row!

Peace

Karl
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JJ

Novice climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 31, 2002 - 10:20pm
 
Can you do Sons of Yesterday without doing Serenity Crack? Is there some easy variation to the left of Serenity?
Thanks
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billie bob

Advanced climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 25, 2002 - 04:02pm
 
OK, Chris is right in that the pitch lengths are wrong. I couldnt' rappell from pitch 3 to pitch 1. I went off that dinky tree like he did. no big deal.

the bolt protecting the 5.8 slab move at the top is a joke. don't fall.

The second pitch (after the 5.6) is harder than anything on serenity crack. 10a? Damn!

The cracks eat ropes. Bring a Tibloc or two to jug back up!

The z pitch at the top is one of the finest I've ever done.

The wind is horrendous. i was cold in a long-sleeved shirt last week while the valley sweltered!

I saw people rapping the first two pitches of serenity with double ropes. the tope says they should be 50 feet short of the ground!

serenity is a bit wet in the morning. Sun hits at 11am
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chris

Intermediate climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 13, 2002 - 01:34pm
 
I don't believe that Chris M's comment on only one pitch requiring a rap longer than 100 feet is correct. Our 200 foot rope did not make the rap from the anchor at the top of the third pitch to the anchor at the top of the second pitch. We were 6-8 feet short of the anchor requiring fancy sling work to get to it safely.

The second and third pitches have a hearty appetite for ropes when you pull them.

The second pitch is incredible.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Apr 2, 2002 - 09:50am
did the first two pitches of this yesterday (rappelled early because it got dark) and there was nobody else on the route!

found an ERROR in the topo:
 pitch two in the topo is noted as 90 feet long. the pitch is actually 120' long. i promise to correct this in the next edition of the topo.

this is a big deal because it means that you need to two ropes to rappel this pitch. (actually, one 70m rope would probably work but i am not sure.) this is the only pitch on the route that you need two ropes to rappel so you either have to bring two ropes or do what i did, rappel off a sketchy little tree at the beginning of pitch two. not reccomended!!!!
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jim

Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
Feb 7, 2002 - 10:36pm
 
serenity is looking good, the first pitch only a bit wet....just bring a dam chalk bag....
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Pat

Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
Oct 30, 2001 - 04:26pm
 
On 10/26/01 the belay atop pitch 4 had one hangerless bolt.
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Royal Arches Area - Sons of Yesterday 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Sons of Yesterday follows five pitches of great 5.10 cracks.
Photo: Todd Snyder
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