Trees Sons of Yesterday/New rap route needed?

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couchmaster

climber
Sep 25, 2017 - 08:19pm PT
Regarding this: quote: "The runout between 8 and 9 bothers some people, so adding a bolt in the middle could help encourage those folks to reach the top and not rap the climb. The slung big dead tree at 9 might have also been discouraging people from topping out. So removing the second bolt at 8 might not be necessary."

I'd always heard it was loose and dirty above on the final pitch. I've always rapped so I didn't kill anyone kicking off loose rocks. Are you saying it merely needs a bolt? Put it in and let folks know it's clean and they will climb it.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 25, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
P9 of Sons is not loose and dirty - it's clean slab climbing.
I was thinking the big dead pine tree at (9) may have been discouraging some people from doing p9. (But the tree is gone now).

Above (9) and slightly left there is an extension called Xanadu which is dirty and has some loose rocks up high.
There is also the Ahwahnee Buttress to the right which tops out - it's pretty dirty as well.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 2, 2017 - 10:23am PT
Hey Clint, we used your rap route this weekend - really evident that lots of work and lots of thought went into it. Thanks!

We went up the last pitch (the slab), had your photo overlay, and had no problems. Only hesitation was on the first rap, when my partner wasn't sure whether to head for your anchor (under the tree) or what sounds like Jay and Melissa's anchor (out left, painted hardware, has quick links). Once he sorted that out, the rest of the rap route was clear and simple.

There were two other parties above us, here's what we saw:

-Not sure whether first party did the last slab pitch, but they must have gone to J + M's anchor, ended up stranded (single 70 I think) a distance above the tree belay (after first real pitch of Sons). They sorted it out without issue and got back on the route, rapped the route.

-Other party didn't do the slab pitch, rapped/tension-traversed horizontally to J + M's anchor (I think, they may have made your anchor), and from there it looked like the went down your rap route quickly and without problems.

I'd always heard it was loose and dirty above on the final pitch. I've always rapped so I didn't kill anyone kicking off loose rocks. Are you saying it merely needs a bolt? Put it in and let folks know it's clean and they will climb it.

My vote: No way should a bolt be added to that pitch. There was plenty of chalk on the holds, so people are doing it.

It's +/- 15 ft on 5.8 slab. Half of that 15 ft is 5.5 or less, so maybe 3 or 4 moves of 5.8. It's a different technique, but easier and shorter than the run to start Serenity p1.

Thanks again for the thoughtful work you do for the community:



Edit: Here's a pic of the entirety of the last slab pitch. Doesn't need another bolt imo. If you do put one in, what's the argument against some other bolter putting one in to reduce the runout on Serenity p1, or any other subjectively perceived runout in the Valley?

kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2017 - 11:26am PT
Hey, le Bruce, and thanks for the post.

To be sure the adding of a bolt to that pitch was my idea, not Clint's so he wouldn't be adding bolts without the FA's opinion. Vince led that section while I was belaying on the FA and against my wishes made it a little more run out than I wanted.

His prerogative to some degree being on the sharp end....But even then I was conscious of how the presence or absence of bolts "direct" future parties to do or not do the route to completion. I knew even then that people would rarely do that section because of how it was bolted (originally that pitch always included that slab section as the diagonal crack pitch is short) and combined with St00pid Topo and Sloan making it an "optional pitch" has led relatively few to do it over the years as far as I can tell. Of course the old bad bolt (since replaced, TY) made it worse.

It was something I always wanted to "fix" but it was December '86 when we finished SoY and weather came in and I didn't have the opportunity before I left the Valley in Spring of 87'.

Combining "optional" from the guides with the section being less well protected makes it easy for people to rap on top of the route, abusing the trees and climbers below them...so I am still open to "re-routing" the section depending...Perhaps all it needs is the rap route over there (and corrections to the guides) to get people to do it. The climbing IS easy up to the bolt, just thought provoking, kinda how an easy section on a route of mostly harder climbing should be.


best, John
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 11:20am PT
Separate rap route is complete from true top of SoY to the bottom, one 60m required, as per Clint's overlays posted above.

From Sunset ledge there are now separate anchors above ( on a ledge at the "walk left" point) and on the East of Sunset Ledge (basically right at the "t" in Sunset on the overlay) that send you down Mother of the Future to anchors on Maxine's and then right to the base of Serenity. First rap is short to hit a good stance then you are gtg to the bottom in 5 more short raps if only using one 60m rope. You hit MoF, MoF, Pigs in Space, New anchor at Ramp, Maxine's then ground.

This is a good alternate for rapping Serenity too, to avoid that cluster. Just finish to Sunset then walk East to see the next set of anchors.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 11, 2017 - 02:46pm PT

I have updated the overlay showing the lower stations on the rap route.
John and I worked to finish it last weekend.
As he mentioned:
R9 = existing 3/8" + 5/16" bolted anchor on Mother of the Future; we added chains
R10 = existing 3/8" stainless anchor with fixed stainless biner and Metolius rap hanger on Pigs in Space (also top of Firefingers p2).
R11 = new anchor at sloping dike, right of the climbing on Firefingers p2.
R12 = existing 3/8" anchor, top of Maxine's Wall p1.
new rap anchor on Sunset Ledge &#40;top of Serenity out of view to right&#41;.
new rap anchor on Sunset Ledge (top of Serenity out of view to right).
Credit: Clint Cummins
photos of R7 on Sunset Ledge
new rap anchor on Sunset Ledge, close up
new rap anchor on Sunset Ledge, close up
Credit: Clint Cummins
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The real McCoy from the inside of my van.
Oct 11, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
Looks fantastic thanks again for your diligent efforts clint. I gotta go try it now... soo many parties on this route soo often...
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 12, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
At what point did "Daughters Direct" get changed to "Mother of the Future"??? And who changed the name?

-Eric Gabel
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 12, 2017 - 11:33pm PT
No names were changed.
Mother of the Future is in the 1994 guidebook; it ends at Sunset Ledge.
Daughters Direct is the orange line on the photo overlay; it starts off of Sons of Yesterday.

P.S. there is a newish route between Firefingers p1 and Permanent Waves which has 9-10x and joins Maxine's p2.
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