Dixie Peach, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.9 R

   
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3-4 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 20-30 minutes
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 500'
Overview
FA: Vern Clevenger, Eric Schoen, Rob Frick, November 1973.

With clean, exposed climbing up the center of Stately Pleasure Dome, Dixie Peach is a step up from South Crack in both difficulty and head games. Fun, featured slab climbing makes up the bulk of the route, but with three slab pitches in a row with no protection at all, a solid lead head is required.

The first pitch is the crux, starting up the easy flake start of South Crack and then up a corner to flake to 5.9 slab past a bolt. The next pitch is the psychological crux, with sustained 5.8 friction climbing (with one rest knob) for 40 feet to larger holds and easier climbing. The next two pitches have generally easy climbing up wandering featured slab, and then you can use the finishes of either Great White Book or South Crack. Itís easy to link the 2nd and 3rd pitches with a 60m rope, and you get to clip the intermediate anchor as a piece of pro.
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Climber Beta on Dixie Peach
  A total of (1) submissions of route beta on Dixie Peach
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Dixie Peach?

Tuolumne Free Climbs
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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on Dixie Peach
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 25, 2003
Stately Pleasure Dome - Dixie Peach 5.9 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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This route ascends a flake in the mirror-image of California.
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Stately Pleasure Dome above Tenaya Lake.
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This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
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A great combination of crack and face climbing.
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This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
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