Hermaphrodite Flake, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.8
Avg time to climb route: 1-2.5 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 20-30 minutes
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 400'
OverviewWith great protection and an easy retreat, Hermaphrodite Flake is an exceptional introduction to Tuolumne multi-pitch climbing. With rappel stations at each anchor, this climb can be done as a three-pitch 5.4, or a five-pitch 5.8. The tunnel-under variation to the 2nd pitch is adventurous, and the undercling variation is exciting. The 5.8 climbing on Pitch 4 is tightly bolted, especially compared to other easy routes in Tuolumne. With almost no approach and the beauty of Tenaya Lake and surroundings, Hermaphrodite Flake is deservedly popular.
Climber Beta on Hermaphrodite Flake
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Hermaphrodite Flake?
Find other routes like Hermaphrodite Flake
HistoryThe flake Hermaphrodite is so named because it “goes” three ways: you can climb left, right, or chimney between the face and the flake. The dictionary definition of a hermaphrodite is an “individual in which both reproductive organs are present.” The flake sticks up and the chimney goes in.
In the summer of 1992, I climbed to the top of Hermaphrodite Flake and led Eunuch and was totally disappointed that it veered right and didn’t go straight up. I came back to the top of Hermaphrodite Flake and led straight up to the big dish that became the first belay for “The Boltway.” The pitch was runout so I rapped down and put in a number of bolts to better protect the climb. I hated the scary walk-off by the headwall so I decided to continue the route to the top and put in an anchor rap station. It was time for a 5.8 leader to have a safe and fun climb in Tuolumne.
– Marty Steiger
StrategyAs with West Country or South Crack, be prepared to take a number and wait in line. The climbing is not well-protected in several wide cracks and in the tunnel-through. Yet no wide gear is needed since the cracks are either too wide for pro or it’s possible to place smal... [full history for SuperTopo members only!]
Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read the complete route history, the recommended strategy for climbing this route, and useful tips should you need to retreat.
ApproachSign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's approach information.
DescentSign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's descent information.
Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
Search the internet for beta on Hermaphrodite Flake
Other guidebooks that include info on Hermaphrodite Flake
Other Routes on Stately Pleasure Dome