Hermaphrodite Flake, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.8

   
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1-2.5 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 20-30 minutes
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 400'
Overview
With great protection and an easy retreat, Hermaphrodite Flake is an exceptional introduction to Tuolumne multi-pitch climbing. With rappel stations at each anchor, this climb can be done as a three-pitch 5.4, or a five-pitch 5.8. The tunnel-under variation to the 2nd pitch is adventurous, and the undercling variation is exciting. The 5.8 climbing on Pitch 4 is tightly bolted, especially compared to other easy routes in Tuolumne. With almost no approach and the beauty of Tenaya Lake and surroundings, Hermaphrodite Flake is deservedly popular.
Photos - View all 8 photos of Hermaphrodite Flake as: Thumbnails | Slideshow
Climber Beta on Hermaphrodite Flake
  A total of (33) submissions of route beta on Hermaphrodite Flake
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Tuolumne Free Climbs
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History
The flake Hermaphrodite is so named because it “goes” three ways: you can climb left, right, or chimney between the face and the flake. The dictionary definition of a hermaphrodite is an “individual in which both reproductive organs are present.” The flake sticks up and the chimney goes in.

In the summer of 1992, I climbed to the top of Hermaphrodite Flake and led Eunuch and was totally disappointed that it veered right and didn’t go straight up. I came back to the top of Hermaphrodite Flake and led straight up to the big dish that became the first belay for “The Boltway.” The pitch was runout so I rapped down and put in a number of bolts to better protect the climb. I hated the scary walk-off by the headwall so I decided to continue the route to the top and put in an anchor rap station. It was time for a 5.8 leader to have a safe and fun climb in Tuolumne.
– Marty Steiger

Strategy
As with West Country or South Crack, be prepared to take a number and wait in line. The climbing is not well-protected in several wide cracks and in the tunnel-through. Yet no wide gear is needed since the cracks are either too wide for pro or it’s possible to place smal...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Approach
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Descent
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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on Hermaphrodite Flake
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 19, 2013
Stately Pleasure Dome - Hermaphrodite Flake 5.8 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
This route ascends a flake in the mirror-image of California.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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Stately Pleasure Dome - Great White Book 5.6 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Great White Book, 5.6 R
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Stately Pleasure Dome above Tenaya Lake.
Stately Pleasure Dome - South Crack 5.8R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
South Crack, 5.8R
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This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Stately Pleasure Dome - West Country 5.7 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
West Country, 5.7
Stately Pleasure Dome
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A great combination of crack and face climbing.
Stately Pleasure Dome - Mosquito 5.7 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Mosquito, 5.7 R
Stately Pleasure Dome
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This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Stately Pleasure Dome - White Flake 5.7 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
White Flake, 5.7 R
Stately Pleasure Dome
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Stately Pleasure Dome above Tenaya Lake.
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