Hermaphrodite Flake, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.8

Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

Currently 3.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 1-2.5 hours

Approach time: 5 minutes

Descent time: 20-30 minutes

Number of pitches: 5

Height of route: 400'

Overview

With great protection and an easy retreat, Hermaphrodite Flake is an exceptional introduction to Tuolumne multi-pitch climbing. With rappel stations at each anchor, this climb can be done as a three-pitch 5.4, or a five-pitch 5.8. The tunnel-under variation to the 2nd pitch is adventurous, and the undercling variation is exciting. The 5.8 climbing on Pitch 4 is tightly bolted, especially compared to other easy routes in Tuolumne. With almost no approach and the beauty of Tenaya Lake and surroundings, Hermaphrodite Flake is deservedly popular.

Photos - View all 5 photos of Hermaphrodite Flake as: Thumbnails | Slideshow

Climber Beta on Hermaphrodite Flake

A total of (33) submissions of route beta on Hermaphrodite Flake

Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Hermaphrodite Flake?

Tuolumne Free Climbs

Find other routes like Hermaphrodite Flake

History

The flake Hermaphrodite is so named because it “goes” three ways: you can climb left, right, or chimney between the face and the flake. The dictionary definition of a hermaphrodite is an “individual in which both reproductive organs are present.” The flake sticks up and the chimney goes in.

In the summer of 1992, I climbed to the top of Hermaphrodite Flake and led Eunuch and was totally disappointed that it veered right and didn’t go straight up. I came back to the top of Hermaphrodite Flake and led straight up to the big dish that became the first belay for “The Boltway.” The pitch was runout so I rapped down and put in a number of bolts to better protect the climb. I hated the scary walk-off by the headwall so I decided to continue the route to the top and put in an anchor rap station. It was time for a 5.8 leader to have a safe and fun climb in Tuolumne.
– Marty Steiger

Strategy

As with West Country or South Crack, be prepared to take a number and wait in line. The climbing is not well-protected in several wide cracks and in the tunnel-through. Yet no wide gear is needed since the cracks are either too wide for pro or it’s possible to place smal... [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read the complete route history, the recommended strategy for climbing this route, and useful tips should you need to retreat.

Approach

Descent

Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows