Great White Book, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.6 R
Avg time to climb route: 2-3 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 20-30 minutes
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 450'
OverviewGreat White Book is a very popular, moderate route up a classic huge dihedral on the most accessible dome in Tuolumne. Although “the angle is embarrassingly low,” it is an awkward, long chimney and offwidth system, on polished rock, with poor protection for long sections. Additionally, a huge friction traverse on the last pitch is unprotected and scary for the inexperienced. It also poses problems for the novice follower looking at a giant pendulum. For these reasons, even though it is “only 5.6,” many climbers will not have the experience to feel comfortable on this climb.
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