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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Spontaneity Arête
III 5.7, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
8
III 5.7
4 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Rib III 5.8  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Rib
III 5.8 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.8
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Couloir II 5.0 40º - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Couloir
II 5.0 40, South Early Winters Spire

Kurt Hicks approaching the Southwest Couloir under typical early season conditions
Photo:Chris Kouba
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.0 40
4 Star Rating
Black Peak - South Ridge II 4th Class - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Ridge
II 4th Class, Black Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Black Peak
N/A
II 4th Class
3 Star Rating
Kangaroo Temple - South Face III 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
III 5.8, Kangaroo Temple

Ian Nicholson leading Pitch 1 on the South Face of Kangaroo Temple.
Photo:Rebecca Schroeder
Kangaroo Temple
7
III 5.8
1 Star Rating
Concord Tower - South Face II 5.6 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
II 5.6, Concord Tower

Alan Rousseau at the base of the South Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.6
2 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress III+ 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Buttress
III+ 5.8, Cutthroat Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
12
III+ 5.8
4 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - South Arete II 5.6  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Arete
II 5.6 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.6
5 Star Rating
Silver Star Mountain - Silver Star Glacier II 35 degree 4th class rock - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Silver Star Glacier
II 35 degree 4th class rock, Silver Star Mountain

Silver Star Mountain in early season conditions.
Photo:John Scurlock
Silver Star Mountain
N/A
II 35 degree 4th class rock
5 Star Rating
Serpentine Crack
III 5.11b/c, Liberty Bell


Photo:
Liberty Bell
8
III 5.11b/c
4 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Remsberg Variation II+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Remsberg Variation
II+ 5.10d, Liberty Bell

Dale Remsberg nearly 20 years after making the first ascent. Now Technical Director of the AMGA.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rebel Yell
III 5.10b, Chianti Spire

Chianti Spire Rebel Yell
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Chianti Spire
7
III 5.10b
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Rapple Grapple II 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rapple Grapple
II 5.8+, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Rapple Grapple
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - Rampage III 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rampage
III 5.10d, Paisano Pinnacle

The North Face of Paisano Pinnacle.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.10d
5 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Patriot Cracks II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Patriot Cracks
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
4
II 5.8
2 Star Rating
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