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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Whine Spire - Gato Negro IV+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Gato Negro
IV+ 5.10d, Whine Spire

Whine Spire Gato Negro
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Whine Spire
12
IV+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Big Kangaroo - Kearney-Thomas III 5.11b or 5.10b C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Kearney-Thomas
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
8
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1
4 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Labor Pains III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Labor Pains
III 5.11a, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack 5.9 C2 or 5.13b - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Crack
5.9 C2 or 5.13b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Liberty Crack
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
5.9 C2 or 5.13b
5 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Liberty Traverse V 5.8-5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Traverse
V 5.8-5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

Less traveled section between Lexington and N.E.W.S. Rappel at far end of ledge in middle of photo.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
24
V 5.8-5.11a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Mojo Rising III 5.11b C1+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Mojo Rising
III 5.11b C1+, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
5
III 5.11b C1+
4 Star Rating
Concord Tower - North Face II 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
II 5.7, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.7
5 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - North Face III 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
III 5.8+, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
4
III 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - North Face II 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
II 5.7, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
3
II 5.7
3 Star Rating
Concord Tower - North Face Directismo II 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face Directismo
II 5.8+, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - North Ridge III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Ridge
III 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak North Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
13
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Black Peak - Northeast Ridge II 5.3 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northeast Ridge
II 5.3, Black Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Black Peak
N/A
II 5.3
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner III 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Corner
III 5.9+, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.9+
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Face
III 5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
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