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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge III 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III 5.9-, Paisano Pinnacle

Paisano Pinnacle West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.9-
5 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III+ 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
9
III+ 5.7
2 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - West Face III 5.11a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Face
III 5.11a or 5.10a C1, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
West Face
II 5.6 R, Big Kangaroo


Photo:
Big Kangaroo
7
II 5.6 R
4 Star Rating
Juno Tower - Vasliki Ridge  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Vasliki Ridge
, Juno Tower

Juno Tower Vasliki Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
N/A
Burgundy Spire - Ultra Mega OK III+ 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Ultra Mega OK
III+ 5.11a, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Ultra Mega OK
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
9
III+ 5.11a
2 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Tunnel Route II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tunnel Route
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower Tunnel Route
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - Tooth and Claw IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tooth and Claw
IV 5.12a, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower when viewed from the East
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
8
IV 5.12a
4 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Thin Red Line V 5.10a C2+ - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Thin Red Line
V 5.10a C2+, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Thin Red Line
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
12
V 5.10a C2+
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Southern Man IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Southern Man
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1, South Early Winters Spire

Joel Kauffman launching into the unknown during the first ascent of The Southern Man
Photo:Mark Allen
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Passenger IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Passenger
IV 5.12a, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Hitchhiker
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - The Girl Next Door II 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Girl Next Door
II 5.9-, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell The Girl Next Door
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.9-
3 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - The First Amendement IV 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The First Amendement
IV 5.11a, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
10
IV 5.11a
3 Star Rating
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