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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

 


 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Liberty Bell - Freedom or Death III or V 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom or Death
III or V 5.12a, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom or Death
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
III or V 5.12a
5 Star Rating
Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rebel Yell
III 5.10b, Chianti Spire

Chianti Spire Rebel Yell
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Chianti Spire
7
III 5.10b
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Hitchhiker
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
Concord Tower - North Face II 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
II 5.7, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.7
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Face
III 5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
Silver Star Mountain - Silver Star Glacier II 35 degree 4th class rock - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Silver Star Glacier
II 35 degree 4th class rock, Silver Star Mountain

Silver Star Mountain in early season conditions.
Photo:John Scurlock
Silver Star Mountain
N/A
II 35 degree 4th class rock
5 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - Rampage III 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rampage
III 5.10d, Paisano Pinnacle

The North Face of Paisano Pinnacle.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.10d
5 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Spontaneity Arête
III 5.7, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
8
III 5.7
4 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress III+ 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Buttress
III+ 5.8, Cutthroat Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
12
III+ 5.8
4 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Early Winter Couloir III AI2-3 and M4+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Early Winter Couloir
III AI2-3 and M4+, North Early Winters Spire

Early Winters Couloir from the east
Photo:Steph Abegg
North Early Winters Spire
6
III AI2-3 and M4+
4 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - North Face III 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
III 5.8+, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
4
III 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Whine Spire - Gato Negro IV+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Gato Negro
IV+ 5.10d, Whine Spire

Whine Spire Gato Negro
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Whine Spire
12
IV+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Remsberg Variation II+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Remsberg Variation
II+ 5.10d, Liberty Bell

Dale Remsberg nearly 20 years after making the first ascent. Now Technical Director of the AMGA.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
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