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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Whine Spire - Gato Negro IV+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Gato Negro
IV+ 5.10d, Whine Spire

Whine Spire Gato Negro
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Whine Spire
12
IV+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Rib III 5.8  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Rib
III 5.8 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.8
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - South Arete II 5.6  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Arete
II 5.6 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.6
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Liberty Traverse V 5.8-5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Traverse
V 5.8-5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

Less traveled section between Lexington and N.E.W.S. Rappel at far end of ledge in middle of photo.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
24
V 5.8-5.11a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Hitchhiker
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Direct East Buttress
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0, South Early Winters Spire

The soaring East Butress of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Andrew Burr
South Early Winters Spire
10
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Face
III 5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Southern Man IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Southern Man
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1, South Early Winters Spire

Joel Kauffman launching into the unknown during the first ascent of The Southern Man
Photo:Mark Allen
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Passenger IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Passenger
IV 5.12a, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Couloir II 5.0 40º - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Couloir
II 5.0 40º, South Early Winters Spire

Kurt Hicks approaching the Southwest Couloir under typical early season conditions
Photo:Chris Kouba
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.0 40º
4 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Mojo Rising III 5.11b C1+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Mojo Rising
III 5.11b C1+, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
5
III 5.11b C1+
4 Star Rating
Silver Star Mountain - Silver Star Glacier II 35 degree 4th class rock - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Silver Star Glacier
II 35 degree 4th class rock, Silver Star Mountain

Silver Star Mountain in early season conditions.
Photo:John Scurlock
Silver Star Mountain
N/A
II 35 degree 4th class rock
5 Star Rating
Poster Peak - Blue’s Buttress III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Blue’s Buttress
III+ 5.7, Poster Peak

Poster Peak and the Liberty Bell group from Kangaroo Pass.
Photo:Rob Schiesser
Poster Peak
11
III+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge III 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III 5.9-, Paisano Pinnacle

Paisano Pinnacle West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.9-
5 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - Rampage III 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rampage
III 5.10d, Paisano Pinnacle

The North Face of Paisano Pinnacle.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.10d
5 Star Rating
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