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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Burgundy Spire - Action Potential III 5.10c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Action Potential
III 5.10c, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Action Potential
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
8
III 5.10c
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Beckey Route II 5.7- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Beckey Route
II 5.7-, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Beckey Route
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.7-
5 Star Rating
Big Kangaroo - Beckey-Tate III 5.9 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Beckey-Tate
III 5.9, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
7
III 5.9
3 Star Rating
Poster Peak - Blue’s Buttress III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Blue’s Buttress
III+ 5.7, Poster Peak

Poster Peak and the Liberty Bell group from Kangaroo Pass.
Photo:Rob Schiesser
Poster Peak
11
III+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - Cauthorn-Wilson III WI4 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Cauthorn-Wilson
III WI4, Cutthroat Peak

The East face of Cutthroat peak with the obvious Cauthorn-Wilson in the center of the face.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
7
III WI4
5 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Chockstone Route II+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Chockstone Route
II+ 5.7, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire - Blue Bradley follows Pitch 6 of the Chockstone Route
Photo:Larry Goldie
North Early Winters Spire
6
II+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
Juno Tower - Clean Break IV 5.10b/c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Clean Break
IV 5.10b/c, Juno Tower

Tino Villanueva leads up the amazing Pitch 1 of Clean Break
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
15
IV 5.10b/c
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Direct East Buttress
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0, South Early Winters Spire

The soaring East Butress of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Andrew Burr
South Early Winters Spire
10
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0
5 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Early Winter Couloir III AI2-3 and M4+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Early Winter Couloir
III AI2-3 and M4+, North Early Winters Spire

Early Winters Couloir from the east
Photo:Steph Abegg
North Early Winters Spire
6
III AI2-3 and M4+
4 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - East Face IV 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
IV 5.9+, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower East Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
9
IV 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Chablis Spire - East Face II 5.6R - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
II 5.6R, Chablis Spire

The Wine Spires viewed from the East.
Photo:John Scurlock
Chablis Spire
4
II 5.6R
4 Star Rating
Minuteman Tower - East Face III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
III 5.10b, Minuteman Tower

Minuteman Tower East Face
Photo:Mark Allen
Minuteman Tower
6
III 5.10b
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Flycatcher Buttress IV 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Flycatcher Buttress
IV 5.10b, North Early Winters Spire

The East Buttress’s of South and North Early Winters
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
11
IV 5.10b
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom or Death III or V 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom or Death
III or V 5.12a, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom or Death
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
III or V 5.12a
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider V 5.10d or 5.11b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom Rider
V 5.10d or 5.11b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom Rider
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10d or 5.11b
3 Star Rating
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