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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Juno Tower - Vasliki Ridge  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Vasliki Ridge
, Juno Tower

Juno Tower Vasliki Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
N/A
Kangaroo Temple - South Face III 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
III 5.8, Kangaroo Temple

Ian Nicholson leading Pitch 1 on the South Face of Kangaroo Temple.
Photo:Rebecca Schroeder
Kangaroo Temple
7
III 5.8
1 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III+ 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
9
III+ 5.7
2 Star Rating
Concord Tower - South Face II 5.6 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
II 5.6, Concord Tower

Alan Rousseau at the base of the South Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.6
2 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Patriot Cracks II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Patriot Cracks
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
4
II 5.8
2 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Ultra Mega OK III+ 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Ultra Mega OK
III+ 5.11a, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Ultra Mega OK
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
9
III+ 5.11a
2 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - North Ridge III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Ridge
III 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak North Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
13
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Poster Peak - Blue’s Buttress III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Blue’s Buttress
III+ 5.7, Poster Peak

Poster Peak and the Liberty Bell group from Kangaroo Pass.
Photo:Rob Schiesser
Poster Peak
11
III+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - The Girl Next Door II 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Girl Next Door
II 5.9-, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell The Girl Next Door
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.9-
3 Star Rating
Black Peak - South Ridge II 4th Class - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Ridge
II 4th Class, Black Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Black Peak
N/A
II 4th Class
3 Star Rating
Black Peak - Northeast Ridge II 5.3 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northeast Ridge
II 5.3, Black Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Black Peak
N/A
II 5.3
3 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - North Face II 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
II 5.7, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
3
II 5.7
3 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Tunnel Route II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tunnel Route
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower Tunnel Route
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider V 5.10d or 5.11b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom Rider
V 5.10d or 5.11b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom Rider
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10d or 5.11b
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Flycatcher Buttress IV 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Flycatcher Buttress
IV 5.10b, North Early Winters Spire

The East Buttress’s of South and North Early Winters
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
11
IV 5.10b
3 Star Rating
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