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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
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Great Tr, here.
Another similar, somewhat easier and lighter-weight route up there is the NE face of Lower Cathedral Spire (powell, sacherer, kamps 1963 plus three variations afterwards) . 5.9, and if you do the Pratt variation 5.9 on the second real pitch you get a little offwidth. The first pitch is a little wierd, involves a lieback to the left and up with somewhat lesser than optimum pro (at least bitd). Fuzzywuzzy and I did it around 1976. Great location, just a couple of pitches. ((Huge approach of course)).
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
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Hey Peter,
As we were traversing over to the East Corner we passed a lot of cool looking stuff. I want to go back and climb some of those. Seems like Lower has some good alternate routes too. Have to go back.
Zander
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Yeah, you characters should Zander. That whole bunch of stuff up there is crowd free and kinda plentiful and really classic. A good trip would be to go up there and spend the night, doing Braille Book, NE face LCS, other Spire routes, NE Buttress of MCR or other, in order to make the hike vaguely rational.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Oct 26, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
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ARRRRGGH!
Vague rationality! Double Arrrggh.
Nice job, ya'll.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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Actually Peter,
Long approaches keep my weight down. With the heart desease that runs in my family that's not a trivial consideration. Adventure equals health, or something like that.
I see you are on the BAWC E-list. Come on by the shop for one of the sessions.
Climb on!
Zander
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 27, 2009 - 03:33am PT
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Zander- You are the man! A great looking climb once again!
You always seem to find the good stuff.
Spyork looked like he was having a great time, big smiles!
Good one you guys
Mucci
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Oct 27, 2009 - 04:01am PT
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You might want to put some wax paper or something under the (edge) rope right here .
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Oct 27, 2009 - 10:12am PT
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That edge is more rounded than it looks in the photo. I looked at it carefully, hehe.
I like the idea of going up there and bivying and knocking out a couple climbs. Maybe next time.
Steve
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Nov 11, 2009 - 01:33am PT
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Zander-
Thanks for another great climb and tr!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Bumpety to get the springtime juices flowing, to think about adventures to come.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nice thread TFPU & thanks for the bump.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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heard another recent story of this climb last weekend...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Apr 14, 2015 - 06:36am PT
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Pray tell, Ed.
That is a really fun route. The view from the top of the Cathedral Rocks, El Cap, Yosemite Falls, Lost Arrow Spire, Washington Column, Half Dome, Glacier Point, Tuolumne Domes, and Mt. Coness has to be among the most amazing views I've ever witnessed!
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