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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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"I was very active at Willy in the late 80's thru mid 90's"
Batrock, so was I. Erik Eriksson and I put up a route on the Sick Wall, called G.B.H. 5.12c, short for Grievous Bodily Harm, around the time G. H. B. was the new drug of choice, We both lead it but I think we have the only ascents?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 26, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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The sick wall was the first place I envisioned a modern sport route at Williamson. I hand place a few buttonheads on top and accessed it via the crack route to the right. I never did anything on it besides inspecting it. Later Troy and I attempted a route on it but moved on to easier pickings. It was about the same time that Sam Owens I believe put up some routes on the Waterfall Wall. Those were fun times, nobody there even on weekends. Prior to that in the early 80's I used to head up and do long routes on the main face, Future Shlock was the first route I did at Williamson with hammer and drill on lead and then a few years later I did the first route on the Generation Wall, I cant even remember the name of it now. Fun stuff.
Kevin Mokracek
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 26, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Here are a few more.
My old ice axes Bivos and BMW Butt Bag and Wild ThingSwami.
[photoid=132482].[photoid=132480]
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Durango, CO
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Oct 26, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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Gobee - the Vaude Pro Tool is actually pretty light. It is a combination of a Friend-of-a-Friend and a small hammer. The hammer is good for tapping on a nut tool, but not heavy enough for placing anything. It is spring loaded with a little thumb screw to lock it either in the shut or open position.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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Man,
I thought I was going to see something OLD
like a Moac chock...
or a white Edelrid rope, a 120 mind you....
or at least some drilled out Hexes.....?
but i did see some cool extinct stuff,
as in campbell saddlewedges, thanks!
and no thanks on the eiger biner, made by Stanley Brozek in Pasadena, that was not cool, burt scary.
Phil Warrender has one of those old Chouinard standards (the 2200KG one) stamped with JL, Largo, you should go by Phil's and say hi, you would even get the reward of an old biner.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 26, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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Are those Eiger biners hard to come by? I have a few lying around including two red and blue anodized.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 26, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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OK, tried to use the new deal to post a gear photo.
Got as far as the window that said my photo was being uploaded and it just stayed that way.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 26, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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The "Eiger" biners are deeth biners. Thanks Marty, the copper and gold were my 2 Favorite. Ron if I didn't buy Minerals new Beaks I be in fer a shite storm......I still use an ol' Stubai ice tool in my "Weak" left hand, very solid and balanced, I've got some high tech BD thing for the right hand.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 27, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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Just a few oldies:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Oct 27, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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I think this is the first wired nut, a Clog 4 from 70 or 71.
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