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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 24, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Peter,
Of course, I knew exactly what you meant. But I also know that I will probably climb the FINE stone of the NW face a couple more times before I end up on the "back" side.
Unless you invite me out for a project......
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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Great, Surviv, let's just go up there and doodle up some little ole line between Karma and Southern Belle. Three or four generations have studied it closely and of course missed the obvious giant horns, knobs, ledges, cracks and other abnormally huge features all over that area which you and I will be climbing on.
The Back is truly another quantum leap or two above current climbing. Kind of how Mescalito is going to go free soon perhaps. The micromanagement necessary to find a climbing path in the unbelievably sacred wall between Karma and the Belle will take place some day but when? Coming from above is likely to produce a terrible mess and maybe no route too. It is a huge problem and the prospect of numerous blank or false leads in that area is great. That is why we need some hi-res imagery back there. It is going to require voluminous study and planning; I even think there will be PAPERWORK carried on the first ascent.... you know, like description, photos, maps. Obviously it isn't going to be me climbing but the somewhat related project to photograph it is not a huge undertaking--- just a couple of days with the right lighting.
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 24, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 24, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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Yes Peter, I think you are right.
That wall is beyond my age, vision, desire, skill and pocketbook.
Other than that I've got it right where I want it!!
I prefer to haggle my way up something I know is there on the "front".
I have been so pleased with the exposure, climbing, scenery and vibe on the NW face. It suits me fine.
Edit: However, us seniors have been involved in exciting new things up there on the back. .
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Oct 30, 2009 - 02:03am PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 30, 2009 - 02:28am PT
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Amazing definition!
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Oct 30, 2009 - 04:53am PT
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those are some great pictures. I am really impressed
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 30, 2009 - 08:36am PT
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Very nice!
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Oct 30, 2009 - 11:04am PT
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Wow, all great perspectives.
Hey ß Î Ø T Ç H
that is an amazing image, did you take it?
DD
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Oct 30, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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I have long loved the backside. (pun MIGHT be intended.) But with the activity over the past years I wonder how long before a full-on sport camp is established back there and dozens of sport lines go in. Of course it's a long rap to put in the first bolt so maybe we will be safe from a complete grid-bolt fest. My call: LEAVE IT ALONE! unless you have the sac to do it ground up in good style. (Uh-oh... I smell a hornet's nest.) Follow the lead that Kevin W. did on Basket Dome: THAT is how it should be done!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 30, 2009 - 11:51am PT
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A few years ago I had a chance to fly the backside (pun optional), and borrow a powerful camera for the trip. Only one light, early in the day, and it is not the one Peter alludes to, shooting right ahead of the shadow line as it creeps across the face. I have sat up on the rim of Little Yosemite with a spotting scope for that light show and grown all too optimistic in its wake. "10c Dude -- you could go anywhere on that wall at no more than 10c!" was the way Sean Jones put it that day, jumping up and down. Indeed, tiny features casting huge shadows looked like 8" knobs. The sober truth is a lot more severe.
Anyway, a couple of those shots:
One cool thing in this view is you can see how frighteningly steep is the walk-the-plank pitch on Karma, where it crossed the black streak.
This one is fun for the intersection of several routes. On Growing Up you can zoom in on the crux lieback, still in shadow, the dike shooting left out from under the arch (which pops out as you zoom), and get some detail of the crux traverse of the upper slab that goes back right above the lip of the arch.
Notice the double-overhanging slot that breaches the overhang on the Harding-Rowell route. In the shadow, but at least you get an idea of its position. Supposedly there's a ledge right above it -- hard to see.
The "Tri-Clops Eyes" are a good landmark, top center. Harding-Rowell hits the right one, Southern Belle the center. Below them you can pick out the "First Pothole Bivy." The two routes cross just to its right.
Southern Belle wanders in from the right. Supposedly the crux runout -- complete with Hank's skidmarks -- should be visible above the First Pothole and below the Middle Tri-Clops. But it's hard to pick out that line. Maybe a little help from the few who have been there?
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