We solo'd up the three pitches of Right Side of Monday Morning Slab. Our guidebook said it was 5.1, but I thought that was a little stiff. Last night I saw Supertopo calls it 5.4. Here's a pic looking down from right after the crux:
It was a beautiful fall morning:
I linked the first two pitches of Coonyard, taking way too much time:
I earned my merit badge on the first big fall in the last half of my combined pitch:
I made sure to keep Davidji on a short leash as he joined me:
The ravens were circling, waiting for carrion:
And here's David trying his best to satisfy them:
Well, he put up a fight and tried to get some pro in where he could:
Note how close those anchors seem! Don't believe it sucker.
This was the highest piece of pro he got before floating into a sea of granite... pretty bomber:
Well, we were dry on pictures for a bit, what with being busy yelling F-V-C-K, F-V-C-K, F-V-C-K, F--V--C--K and all.
But here's a picture of where I was regrouping after my attempt (the higher yellow rope is hanging on the nutted rivet):
No more pics of the business after that. But on the way rapping down, a parting shot of North and South Domes:
And a pano on my second photo-stitching experiment:
Guido & his mates placed just 2 bolts on the 1st ascent, both on pitch 1 above Monday Morning Slab. Paul Kunascz placed the bolt on pitch 5 in the mid-60s, after taking a fall that broke his leg. He did lead the pitch after putting in the bolt.
As Guido says, those bolts were enough back in day before we had sticky rubber.
We went up the Clint's yellow line and over on the first ascent. It wasn't because we were avoiding anything, I was making fun of first ascents with pendulums so I had to have one. Well, it was a tension traverse, really. I feel kind of bad people getting hurt on this route as it was supposed to be a great spot for an off day after being up in the world of the vertical and hard cracks and the like. On the first ascent I placed two bolts, both on the first pitch because it was so slippery and Guido was a little guy who kept saying "Holy sh!t Amborn" as I would slide and down trying to get going. The first bolt was placed by putting an angle iron piton in sideways for aid in a small slot that also serves as a handhold. I tensioned right to the flake and worked my way up it until close to the bush at which time I felt I needed protection before I grabbed a dead branch and so put in a knife blade piton under the flake. This did not assuage my feelings for needing protection so I stuck in a second bolt. Both bolts were poorly placed as I have always been somewhat impatient with these sorts of things.
No one ever fell with me on several times on the route except Foott when we were coming back in the dark and he took a rolling tumble with "oh god" and maybe an "Oh sh!t" or two. I have photos of Dave Kraft, one of the original Vulgarians from Da Gunks on Coonyard. I'll post up one day with them. He was bemused by the lack of holds.
In any case, it's great to see people having fun on the route. I sure did, and Guido has asked if I would come to Da Valley for a 50th anniversary climb. I think I'm in good enough shape for it, but...