TR 2009-10-18 Coonyard Pinnacle (Frquent Flier Miles)

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nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Photo Update:

We solo'd up the three pitches of Right Side of Monday Morning Slab. Our guidebook said it was 5.1, but I thought that was a little stiff. Last night I saw Supertopo calls it 5.4. Here's a pic looking down from right after the crux:


It was a beautiful fall morning:




I linked the first two pitches of Coonyard, taking way too much time:


I earned my merit badge on the first big fall in the last half of my combined pitch:


I made sure to keep Davidji on a short leash as he joined me:


The ravens were circling, waiting for carrion:


And here's David trying his best to satisfy them:


Well, he put up a fight and tried to get some pro in where he could:




Note how close those anchors seem! Don't believe it sucker.

This was the highest piece of pro he got before floating into a sea of granite... pretty bomber:


Well, we were dry on pictures for a bit, what with being busy yelling F-V-C-K, F-V-C-K, F-V-C-K, F--V--C--K and all.

But here's a picture of where I was regrouping after my attempt (the higher yellow rope is hanging on the nutted rivet):


No more pics of the business after that. But on the way rapping down, a parting shot of North and South Domes:


And a pano on my second photo-stitching experiment:


So for our trip, Humans 0 Ravens 6:
davidji

Social climber
CA
Oct 20, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
Ropes were mine, rack Nutjob's, except for my BD micros, purple Metolius TCU, and a few tied slings.

At the rusty rivet or busted bolt, I spent some time time trying to find a nut I could use: the wires had to slide, and it had to be small enough so the wires would sit close to the rock.

The pro I had below that was the purple TCU, and a BD micro (which we ended up leaving). I was really grateful for my small contribution to the rack.

Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Oct 20, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
Yes! excellent stuff here. thanks and keep up the good work.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:46am PT
Adventure leading!

Thanks for the stories.
DrDeeg

Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 21, 2009 - 09:37am PT
Guido & his mates placed just 2 bolts on the 1st ascent, both on pitch 1 above Monday Morning Slab. Paul Kunascz placed the bolt on pitch 5 in the mid-60s, after taking a fall that broke his leg. He did lead the pitch after putting in the bolt.

As Guido says, those bolts were enough back in day before we had sticky rubber.
davidji

Social climber
CA
Oct 21, 2009 - 11:49am PT
Guido, stout FA! I'm curious if y'all went up, and lowered over like the yellow line on Ed's photo (hard!), or traversed directly like the red line (bold!).
BBA

Social climber
West Linn OR
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
We went up the Clint's yellow line and over on the first ascent. It wasn't because we were avoiding anything, I was making fun of first ascents with pendulums so I had to have one. Well, it was a tension traverse, really. I feel kind of bad people getting hurt on this route as it was supposed to be a great spot for an off day after being up in the world of the vertical and hard cracks and the like. On the first ascent I placed two bolts, both on the first pitch because it was so slippery and Guido was a little guy who kept saying "Holy sh!t Amborn" as I would slide and down trying to get going. The first bolt was placed by putting an angle iron piton in sideways for aid in a small slot that also serves as a handhold. I tensioned right to the flake and worked my way up it until close to the bush at which time I felt I needed protection before I grabbed a dead branch and so put in a knife blade piton under the flake. This did not assuage my feelings for needing protection so I stuck in a second bolt. Both bolts were poorly placed as I have always been somewhat impatient with these sorts of things.

No one ever fell with me on several times on the route except Foott when we were coming back in the dark and he took a rolling tumble with "oh god" and maybe an "Oh sh!t" or two. I have photos of Dave Kraft, one of the original Vulgarians from Da Gunks on Coonyard. I'll post up one day with them. He was bemused by the lack of holds.

In any case, it's great to see people having fun on the route. I sure did, and Guido has asked if I would come to Da Valley for a 50th anniversary climb. I think I'm in good enough shape for it, but...
davidji

Social climber
CA
Oct 21, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
Thanks BBA. Impressive stuff!

The only non-original protection bolt we used was this one up on the yellow line (same as in nutjob's photo above):



We did see the added bolt on the traverse though.

Nutjob cleaned up the route a little by removing a fixed bashie between the 2 P1 bolts--by falling on the upper bolt.

guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 21, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
Here is the link to the First Ascent Posting from last year.

I think Haan is going to have to perform some more magic and give me a hand with these photos!


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=713916
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