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LB4USC
Trad climber
Long Beach
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May 13, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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Bump
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 13, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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I forgot about S. Face of North Dome. That's a great route.
I don't know about 5.7 vs 5.8 vs 5 fun, but there is a lot of nice climbing on the route.
The step around to change crack systems is weird and intimidating, but once you find the right way, it's not bad at all.
Funny, the time I climbed it was with Todd S, when he was drawing up the supertopo for the route.
I hope the topo is accurate- we simul climbed most of the route- ha! The inside scoop- the poop, if you will.
I'm glad someone brought this route up. I think I'd like to do it again.
We also did the fourth class descent of the west side of the Dome this is an excellent way to get down. It's sketchy and steep slab and if you do it right and don't die, it might even save three to four minutes extra that it would take to walk to the back of the dome and take the trail back down to Royal Arches.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 14, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Keep the thread alive!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 14, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Now that my leg is rehabilitated from my achilles rupture, I'm starting to tour a bunch of classics.
5.8 is a lot like 5.10...Should have a a, b, c and d, gradings. Some I'd solo anyday, others make me take seriously with gear.
Soloed that Alleged 5.7 in North Dome years ago onsight. Crapped my pants repeatedly! More like nutcracker than After Six for sure!
Peace
Karl
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 12:08am PT
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I seem to recall a place after the cross over where the crack runs out to get to a ledge. I was thinking of soloing I think when we did it. That part looked tough, also the step around part was tough to find the right way but easy. I was glad to plug a cam in for sure.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 15, 2010 - 10:32am PT
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My comparison rating for Yosemite vs. other main US climbing areas:
Big Walls A+
5.11 and above A
5.10 A
5.9 B
5.8 and below C
It's the nature of the rock, the lower grades tend to be slabby and not too interesting vs. other areas like the Gunks and Eldo.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 15, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
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My 2cents worth.
I agree with donini that many of the Valley 5.8s aren't such great routes. Mostly because they've got only short sections of 5.8 or they don't get you very high.
Arrowhead Arete and Selaginella are both excellent 5.8's
I like them both because they're a full day with plenty of long sections of 5.7-5.8 and maybe 5.8+
Arrowhead Arete is a truly spectacular climb: a 1500' approach, a true knife edge ridge, gendarmes and has a tricky descent so you're not down till you're down. Be sure to start early and to take headlamps. Exposure makes you pause in places.
Selaginella's got some tricky lead sections. Pro isn't always where you'd like it. And a strenuous, exposed, spectacular lieback finish.
Being able to lead 5.9 is definitely an asset.
The OW at the base of Selaginella can be bypassed with the steep hand crack to the right. Which might actually be a little harder.
Do them both in a weekend and you've earned a rest.
InMyHumbleOpinion.
Has anybody ever gone UP from the end of Arrowhead Arete?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Tami talked about going to the rim from the top of Arrowhead Arete... and walking the Falls Trail to the floor.
donini has a point, which reveals itself everytime some asks me to name a few 5.8 and below climbs worth doing in the Valley, I have trouble doing it...
...but having climbed in the 'Gunks, I've got to say that many climbs there rated 5.8 would seem sandbagged for someone coming into that area with no experience. Because of the uniqueness of some 'Gunks climbing, i.e. overhangs.
I haven't pranced in Eldo, so I don't know, but I suspect the same would be true there.
There are many very good 5.8's and below in the Valley, but the density of those climbs is relatively low, making it difficult to go from one to the other easily... you have to work for those climbs, you don't have the luxury of their being located close together.
And you have the problem, as in other areas, that there are some distinctly Yosemite Valley characteristics that can be a problem for someone working up through those grades.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 15, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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Well, with all the above said then I'm back to saying that I think the "South Face of North Dome" is one of the Valley Classics. Its right in line with Nutcracker and the Braille Book. Its 5 Star as far as I'm concerned. Its got everything you need to climb to call yourself a competent 5.8 leader, route finding, thin crack, face, lie back, offwidth, a great and beautiful setting, major exposure and you end up on top of a big dome, no rapping.......if you do it right. Every pitch is heads up and its only rated 5.7!!
We took the easy almost level hike on the trail from the Tioga Road to the top of North Dome with big packs and spent the night on top with all the luxuries and a grand view. Late at night it started getting really windy and blowing us around in our bivy sacks, making us almost think about tying in at one point! We stashed our big packs the next morning and took our smaller ones and headed down to the base. After finishing we re-packed and hiked out. A great weekend and one of the best multi-pitch (8 pitches) I've done.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Word of advice for 5.8 climbers looking for 5.8 climbs in the supertopo guide. Gollum Right is a sandbag (with bad falls).
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 15, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
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The first time I climbed the SF of ND, I had no idea that it was a stroll in from Tuolumne. Imagine my surprise when, after climbing for quite a long time, I found a dozen people w/ tripods and easels on the summit!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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The Dove, sounds cool. I tried to spot that buttress once, but couldn't see where it was. I'll have another look...
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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Zeta, here's a big recommendation for Little John Right. A real adventure. Be sure you get good pro at the p.1 crux, it is stout and not that high above the ground. The step-across looks unbelievable as you wobble there looking at it, but is well protected and goes fine. Solid little bit of Yosemite 5.7 hand crack to finish. Then you can TR or lead LJ Left which is seriously slick rock.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 02:37am PT
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Audobon is easy to spot from up on Fireplace Bluffs....
I haven't climbed on it yet.
Bob was exploring up around Fireplace and thought he had found a new crag!
But I mentioned Audobon, and he realized it matched up to what he had "found"! :-)
The 2+ hour approach will keep the crowds away. :-)
(But the 1 hour and 20 minute approach to Braille Book hasn't kept me away, so who knows...)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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Granite generally sucks when it comes to the 5.8 range and the Valley is no exception. Best places for 5.8 are the Gunks for single pitch and Red Rocks for multi-pitch. In the Gunks the 5.7's might be more like the 5.8's you're accustomed to.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:16am PT
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a picture of Audubon Buttress, Duncan Imperial 5.11a
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jun 14, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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We hiked in to Audubon last summer only to be blasted off the first pitch by lightning!!!
I think we did the wrong first pitch to the dove, there is a chimney and a stem corner, we did the stem corner which felt harder than 5.7, though maybe I was exhausted from the approach. The tree at the belay ledge is gone, there are some decaying roots still there. Splitter looked great.
Approach is 2 hours, which includes extra time for tip-toeing around poison oak. In terms of effort and finding the route, BB is a walk in the park. If you go to this spot on the busiest climbing day of the season, you will be alone. Nice views from a unique location.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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Such a nice cliff. I love it, and little wing, and nuts only. Haven't been on fifi buttress though.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
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just did Selaginella, it is a great route and when you combine it with a another great route on the cliff below it makes for an awesome day. just watch your rope drag.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jun 16, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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Bump for my favorite 5.8.
Selaginella's got some tricky lead sections. Pro isn't always where you'd like it. And a strenuous, exposed, spectacular lieback finish.
Being able to lead 5.9 is definitely an asset.
The OW at the base of Selaginella can be bypassed with the steep hand crack to the right. Which might actually be a little harder.
I'm not looking to sew it up, but I don't remember it being runnout. I think it is more intimidating than hard/runnout. For a 5.8~5.9 leader who has not done much OW, is the OW at the base that shutdown? I guess this is a reminder to go do the route again because I can't remember doing any real OW on it.
Why would you want to do a "strenuous lieback finish", when you can grovel up the squeeze chimney? A hand jam, a fist jam and then work your body behind the flake (as a squeeze chimney). The edge of the flake is very thin. You can get a good grip with the left hand simply by pinching the flake. Much less exposed, and you can hang out and enjoy the spectacular view.
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