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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 14, 2009 - 03:47am PT
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despite today's torrential weather, i'm still planning to head to the valley this weekend, forecast looks good for Fri-Sun. Friends can't take Friday off (but I can!) -- if you'll be there and wanna climb, drop me a PM
I'm breaking into leading 5.8s this year--Bishop's Terrace, Harry Daley, Nutcracker and Commitment are all fun, wondering what are other people's favorite 5.8s...wondering how stout/steep Nurdle and Braille Book really are?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 14, 2009 - 04:23am PT
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I think you already named the best ones......
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Oct 14, 2009 - 07:30am PT
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Nurdle is the best-don't skip the second pitch (though I think the second pitch is a different route-but it still feels like a continuation of nurdle)
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Oct 14, 2009 - 09:11am PT
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Skip "Hershey Highway".
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Two Pack Jack
climber
The hills
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Oct 14, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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braille book 5.8, high cathedral rock.
Arrowhead arette 5.7, (out by the lost arrow spire) very exposed and fun.
do those two and your weekend is spent.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Oct 14, 2009 - 11:50am PT
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Braille book is pretty tough for most 5.8 leaders and somewhat of an approach. Arrowhead arrete is a fun climb (only one really great pitch but the location if fantastic), but I remember the approach as long with some loose, ugly spots.
If you've done commitment did you finish up with Selegenella? I think that is my favorite 5.8 in the valley. I don't know that it dries out very quick.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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Admittedly there is a scarcity of 5.8 in the Valley; so much of the climbing is a bit higher level.
Gollum right side 5.8; Pharaoh's Beard 5.8; Little John left 5.8; Little John right 5.9; Pine Line (5.7); After Seven 5.8; Sunnyside Bench Jamcrack Route (5.9-); Church Bowl Chimney (5.6); Royal Arches (5.7 a1 pendulum); Washington Column Direct Rte 5.7; Arches Terrace 5.8; North Dome south face 5.7; Half Dome: Snake Dike 5.7; Monday Morning Slab: Harry Daley rte 5.8; Elephant Rock: Real Error 5.7; Bridalveil Falls: Aqua variation 5.8.
Although others above have mentioned Braille Book 5.8, I would caution you as it might be intimidating as it is longer, steep, a bit continuous and a little sophisticated for a 5.8. Long approach there too.
You can also try some of the shorter safer 5.9's while you are at this stage.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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Here are some starred 5.8s. My favorites are Nutcracker and Braille Book.
4. Hayley Anna 5.8 *
161. Elevator Shaft 5.8 R *
324. Nurdle 5.8 *
356. Makayla's Climb 5.8 *
359. Suds 5.8 *
378. Golden Needles 5.8 *
551. Bongs Away - Left 5.8 *
596. Mockery 5.8 **
598. Keystone Corner 5.8 *
804. Little John - Left 5.8 *
811. Little John - Right 5.8 ***
840. Gollum - Right Side 5.8 *
1034. Sorry Poopsie 5.8 *
1076. After Seven 5.8 *
1081. C.S. Concerto 5.8 *
1085. Nutcracker 5.8 ***
1087. Nutcracker Lieback Start 5.8 *
1098. Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **
1202. Cid's Embrace 5.8 *
1325. The Caverns 5.8 *
1326. Try Again Ledge 5.8 *
1401. Jamcrack p1 5.8 **
1494. Black is Brown 5.8 *
1498. Church Bowl Lieback 5.8 *
1515. Bishop's Terrace 5.8 ***
1628. Arches Terrace 5.8 R *
1934. Cow - Left 5.8 R *
1985. Harry Daley Route 5.8 ***
1993. Point Beyond 5.8 **
1996. Point Beyond Direct 5.8 *
2200. Tilted Mitten - Right Side 5.8 *
2219. Pharaoh's Beard - Regular Route 5.8 *
2289. The Sequel 5.8 *
2293. The Braille Book 5.8 ***
2331. The Pedestal 5.8 *
2332. Stand and Deliver 5.8 *
2403. The Flakes 5.8 R *
2473. Bridalveil East - Aqua var. 5.8 *
30. Stonequest 5.8+ R ***
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olivier
Social climber
Hood River, OR
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Oct 14, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Bishop's Terrace is really fun. Is that the one with the parallel cracks?
I'll second the Braille Book opinion: save it for after you've done a few single pitch 5.9s. It is a physical climb and the effort adds up. The crux is fairly high up, and has that spooky "aura" that only the Valley can provide.
Don't neglect Tuolumne either. Hobbit Book (5.7), South Crack (5.8), and West Crack (5.9) are a good progression and well within the abilities of a 5.8 leader.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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Let me second Peter's mention of Pharoah's Beard. It's a good intro to OW's and chimneys. The right side of Little John has tremendous variation, and is a wonderful climb, too. Arrowhead Arete has a fantastic position, tremendous historical significance, and is a great climb, but it is much harder than 5.7, and it's quite sustained. It also has a long, strenuous, and sometimes dirty and rotten approach and descent.
Of course you can't go wrong with the old chestnuts mentioned in the initial post.
John
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SilasCL
Boulder climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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Just followed a friend on Golden Needles. It was fun and tested my limited jamming skills.
Why not head over to Pat and Jack Pinnacles and tick off that, Nurdle, and Suds.
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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awesome, thanks for all the beta!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Bishops Terrace
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
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Trial By Fire.
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aa-lex
climber
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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Ejesta!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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Thinking about trying to lead Harry Daley this year .. how much do people use offset nuts / cams on the first pitch ?
I followed that pitch twice in 2006, and am a little intimidated .. I'm also interested in leading Bishop's Terrace and After Seven.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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my comments on 5.8's I have done that are in the Reid guide
After Seven I like this climb as a better start up that buttress. Good for an early 5.8 lead.
Bishop's Terrace Valley classic, I frequently do the single pitch variation which is a bit tricky. Take two ropes to rap!
Black is Brown Never really thought I found this route, not recommended for an early 5.8 lead.
Bongs Away, Left Oddly difficult start, which is the crux. Maybe you could do it with elegance, I never have.
Braille Book Great climb but something you should do after you've been leading 5.9 a bit.
C.S. Concerto Another nice route on Manure Pile.
The Caverens Great climbing on the Five Open Books, definitely worth doing.
Church Bowl Lieback Do this when you are confident in your small nut placements, slick!
Church Bowl Terrace Strenuous flare, protectable, short.
Cid's Embrace Tricky start, chimney, do the first pitch only.
Ejesta Do this, great climb, fun position. First pitch is odd mixtures of moves. Second pitch is great!
Elevator Shaft Back-feet chimney, very steep, some runout (but not bad) and often seeps water (which is ok 'cause the rock there is sooo slick even when dry). Take to ropes to rap, better yet, rap over to the top of p1 Outer Limits and play on that if you're alone there.
Golden Needles This is a great climb which looks like it's going to be harder than it is.
Gollum, Right Side Good and obscure, some interesting strenuous moves.
The Hanging Teeth Like this climb, a bit run on one pitch and loose on the exit.
Harry Daley Route Be careful on the start, but another one you should do. Get in Chouinard's Crack too.
Keystone Corner Nice winter climb an a good early 5.8 lead.
Knob Hill Rapist This is an amazing crack feature that protects with modern wide gear.
Little John, Left Super polished, good introduction to the Offwidth Circuit.
Little John, Right An exercise in route finding. Another good one but maybe get a few 5.8 leads under your belt.
Movin' to Montana Confusing because if you follow the bolts in an obvious way it's more like 5.10a but worth working.
Notably Knobular A death route, really, don't even think about it.
Nurdle Good to get your jamming dialed. Do the first pitch and then set a top rope on Sherry's Crack
Nutcracker All time great climb, do the layback start pitch. Don't forget to use all the holds you have available on the mantel!
Point Beyond Direct Remember this as being a typical run out route on the GPA, probably sports ASCA bolts now.
Selaginella Great old school route up a weakness. Develops route finding skills, and helps if you have some!
Squeeze-n-Tease As a great 5.6 OW finish (really!) but probably not worth the hike out. Once you're a 5.10 climber you'll go out there for other business and get on this one for fun.
StonequestWhat a freaking adventure! The bolts were old in 1998 when I did this, probably 11 years older. Love that place though.
The Surprise Pitch 2 is the business if you only go 5.8, the 5.10a finish is much much better, and doing Werner's Ant Tree at 5.10c to start makes the 3 pitch route a 156.75 star DWMC (ask Russ for acronym)... however p2 is an advanced 5.8 lead.
Trial by Fire A good introduction to OW technique... protects well... after you scrape yourself up there you can kill you toes by TRing Demimonde at 5.11c
I've done a lot of other 5.8's and put up some (though the ratings might be controversial). There are some obscure routes to do too... perhaps I can show you some of them sometime... and I'm always up for repeating!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:34am PT
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Ed,
> Point Beyond Direct Remember this as being a typical run out route on the GPA, probably sports ASCA bolts now.
There is a bolt on the starting slab, but not placed by ASCA.
Somebody bolted direct variations on p3 and p4; those were not replaced by ASCA.
We did replace bolts on Angel's Approach to Lucifer's Ledge. We removed many added bolts in the process and only replaced original bolts.
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Oct 15, 2009 - 03:11am PT
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Braille Book spooked me. the OW is weird if your not used to that sort of climbing. Though my rope gun made it look easy, I trashed, to say the least to get through it.
Nut Cracker is IMHO, straight forward 5.8. Awesome,
Also, the Grack center is cool, but the rockfall scare makes me want to climb fast and get out of there.
TM.... Cathedral peak is one awesome climb. I can't say enough about that route. Totally inspirational.
Jamcrack, Munginella, and fooling around the little climbing area around C4 was cool. Also, Royal Arches has some really cool jamming stuff. I liked that alot. All being said, some of the 8's and 9's are scary stuff. I want like crazy to do the SS on Sentinal, but NO WAY am I going up the narrows. And I hear the "Wilson???" roof is totally sandbagged. Nevertheless, that rock wants me to climb it. Hopefully... someday.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Oct 15, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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I remember Pharoh's beard being a fun route with a pretty friendly wide section and Trial by Fire is a good intro wide route.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend Nutcracker to a 5.8 leader because the mantel is stiff and the landing is bad (its broken some ankles along the way). Harry-Daley route is great and it is secure after you get the first piece in. The first move is a bit rough.
Steck Salathe is in a completely different league, but in response to the comment above: I weigh 150 lbs. Getting into the narrows was a C1 move off an old style #4 camalot and the narrows itself was seriously like 5.7. Now if you weigh 180 or more, I could see upward progress being hard, but you are not going to fall out of it. The Wilson overhang is hard if you stay in deep (more secure). I seconded it much further out and 5.8 is a bit of a sandbag, but not too much. But as got talked about in a recent SS thread, the hard lead pitch is the flare below the narrows.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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"Thinking about trying to lead Harry Daley this year .. how much do people use offset nuts / cams on the first pitch ?
I followed that pitch twice in 2006, and am a little intimidated .. I'm also interested in leading Bishop's Terrace and After Seven."
While it's always good to consider what pro to bring, you can overthink it. Think about how many times this has been climbed prior to the advent of offsets and you'll answer your own question.
It's a great route that pros well. If you take your time to place good pro, you'll get good pro. Go for it and have fun.
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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i led the first pitch of Harry Daley and agree that the first move was trickiest--but if your belayer is spotting you well, you'll be fine. Didn't use any off-set nuts/cams, just nuts and then got some small cams in higher up. Then was fine. It was super fun! I think it's one of my favorite leads.
for Bishop's Terrace--I had followed it maybe 3 or 4 times before I led it. It was fine, but I was bummed when I wanted the #2 cam for the last section and had no pro. Other than that, it was great.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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I have always enjoyed the Daley Route on Monday Morning, but the route shown in ST is really a hybrid. The first pitch shown is the first pitch of the Chouinard Variation. The original first pitch (and still, in my opinion, quite worthwhile) starts farther to the right, and after a short friction move, goes up a right-facing lieback to the cieling that traverses the face. A flared undercling in that cieling is always my psychological crux when leading, but after a move or two, easy cracks lead over the cieling to a ledge (about the width of one's foot) leading left to the first belay spot.
It's much more roundabout -- and substantially less sustained -- than the route shown in ST. It protects well easily (I first did it clean in 1971, using mostly Clog hexes and Peck Crackers). Protection in the holes in the Chouinard Variation pitch one is much more tricky.
Still both are extremely enjoyable routes, and the second pitches of both are true classics.
Have fun!
John
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 15, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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Thanks for the advice all !
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Rob,
the way you climb, a small rack is all you'll need. Heck, make it a little more
interesting and just take stoppers and hexes. Both, nice routes!
Doug
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 10, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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Went back and led Bishop's Terrace, After Seven and Harry Daley. Really fun climbs ! Zeta, hope you are climbing strong these days.
OW's are an achilles heel of mine, though I've led wider 5.7 cracks like Turkey Pie, Anti-Ego Crack and somehow managed to get up the wide section on Bishop's Terrace =:-O
I see there is wideness on the upper second pitch of Ejesta and the first pitch of Selaginella. I wonder if I should brush up on my french free technique :)
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
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awesome, glad you did those! 2nd pitch of Ejesta is really fun--and the airy corner is super fun to do... i also recommend Golden Needles (led the 1st pitch but after following the 2nd pitch, I definitely want to lead the 2nd pitch!)
enjoy!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
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I did Stonequest recently.
Highly recommended fun, moderate climb. Not really +, and not very R.
Good early 5.8 lead
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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Harry Daily direct.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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Got to say that Yosemite granite doesn't lend itself to myriads of quality 5.8's, you have to go to the Gunks, Eldo or maybe Red Rocks for that.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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Here is a list of many of the 5.8 and under in the Valley sorted by area
Hayley Anna 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab
Farm Alarm 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab
Too High 5.6 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab
Parkline Slab; Right Side 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab, Parkline Pinnacle
Juliette's Flake, Left Side 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Kindergarten Crack 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
The Nerf Test 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Original Route, Arch Rock Pinnacle 5.5 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Juliette's Flake, Right Side 4 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Capital Punishment 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Oreo Cliff
Hobknob 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Oreo Cliff
Corn Corner 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Oreo Cliff
The Cookie 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Cookie Cliff
Elevator Shaft 5.8 R Lower Merced Canyon, North The Cookie Cliff
Escape 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Cookie Cliff
Nurdle 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Gilligan's Chicken 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Jack Pinnacle, Right 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Pat Pinnacle 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Golden Needles 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Left
Mud Shark 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Left
Just Scraping By 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Right
Notably Knobular 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Right
Psuedo Desperation 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North This and That Cliff
Chicken Pox 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Holidays 5.8 R/X Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Jugs 5.8 R/X Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Electric Gully 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Chimney for Two 5.6 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Tail End 5.6 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Knob Hill Rapist 5.8 R/X Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Movin' to Montana 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Anti-Ego Crack 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Chicken Pie (Turkey Pie) 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Pot Belly 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Sloth Wall 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Turkey Pie (Chicken Pie) 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Sloppy Seconds 5.5 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
5.8 Chimney 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Goldrush Area
Bongs Away, Left 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
Ejesta 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Gray Bullet 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
Andy's Inferno 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Remnant, Right Side 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Rorp 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Iota 5.4 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
Keystone Corner 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Five and Dime Cliff
Mockery 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Five and Dime Cliff
Inner Reaches 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Five and Dime Cliff
Figment 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Mojo Tooth, Left
Mojo Tooth 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Mojo Tooth, Left
Yuk 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Mojo Tooth, Right
The Dove 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Audubon Buttress
Birds of a Feather 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Audubon Buttress
Angelina 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Building Blocks 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
L.D Getaway 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Squeeze-n-Tease 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Andy DeVine 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Scuz Ball 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
El Capitan Gully 4 El Capitan
J.M. Barrie 5.8 El Capitan West Buttress, Base
Tinkerbell, Left 5.7 El Capitan West Buttress, Base
Delectable Pinnacle, Right Side 5.7 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base Delectable Pinnacle
Delectable Pinnacle, Left Side 5.3 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base Delectable Pinnacle
Pine Line 5.7 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base Moby Dick to S. Butt.
Little John, Left 5.8 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base La Cosita to Little John
Little John, Right 5.8 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base La Cosita to Little John
La Cosita, Left 5.7 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base La Cosita to Little John
Blazo 5.8 X El Capitan Southeast Face, Base Rock Neurotic to Gollum
Gollum, Right Side 5.8 El Capitan Southeast Face, Base Rock Neurotic to Gollum
The Footstool, Left Side 5.8 El Capitan Southeast Face, Base The Footstool
The Footstool, Right Side 5.4 R El Capitan Southeast Face, Base The Footstool
Schultz's Ridge 5.7 El Capitan Schultz's Ridge, East
Rectum Ranch 5.8 El Capitan Schultz's Ridge, West
Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark 5.8 El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress
Sorry Poopsie 5.8 El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress
Loggerhead Ledge Route 5.7 El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress
After Seven 5.8 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
C.S. Concerto 5.8 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
Nutcracker 5.8 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
After Six 5.7 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
After Five 5.7 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Commissioner Buttress
Lower Brother, Southwest Arete, Left 5.6 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, West Face, Middle 5.6 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, Southwest Arete, Right 5.5 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, West Face, North Corner 5.3 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, Michael's Ledge 4 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Nutty Buddy 5.8 Three Brothers Lower Brother 4th Street Area
Middle Brother, Southwest Arete, Right 5.7 Three Brothers Middle Brother
Middle Brother, from Michael's Ledge 4 Three Brothers Middle Brother
Middle Brother, West Face 4 Three Brothers Middle Brother
Tweedle Dee 5.8 Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall, Far Left
Cid's Embrace 5.8 Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall, Center
The Sunday Tree 5.6 Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall, Right
R.F. 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Third Tier
Roger Stokes Route 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Third Tier
Aquamist 5.6 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Upper Falls Trail
Selaginella 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Second Tier
Arrowhead Spire, Northeast Side 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
East Arrowhead Buttress, Overhang Bypass 5.7 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Yosemite Point Couloir 5.7 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Arrowhead Spire 5.5 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Arrowhead Spire, East Face 5.5 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Arrowhead Spire, South Arete 5.5 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Castle Cliffs 4 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Yosemite Point Buttress
Claude's Delight 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Penelope's Problem 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Hanging Flake 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Oak Tree Flake 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Swan Slab Gully 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Swan Slab Chimney 5.5 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
The Caverns 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
The Hanging Teeth 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Jughead 5.8 R Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
The Surprise 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Try Again Ledge 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Antique 5.7 R Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Munginella 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Start Me Up 5.4 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Grove Route 5.8 R/X Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Isoceles, Right 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Lieback Route 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Scrooged 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Tiny Tim 5.7 X Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Guides Route 5.6 R/X Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Sunnyside Bench 5.2 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Mothballed 5.1 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Sunnyside Bench, Regular Route 5.0 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Pygmy Pillar 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Right
Lower Yosemite Falls, West Corner 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower Falls, Right
Gorge Traverse 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower Falls, Right
As It Is 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Bishop's Terrace 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Black is Brown 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Church Bowl Lieback 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Church Bowl Terrace 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Stephanie's Corner 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Uncle Fanny 5.7 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Church Bowl Chimney 5.6 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Aunt Fanny's Pantry 5.4 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Lost Flake 5.6 The Royal Arches Church Bowl, Far Right
Trial by Fire 5.8 The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area
Cornball 5.7 The Royal Arches Base
The Trowell 5.7 The Royal Arches The Shining
Hershey Highway 5.8 The Royal Arches Terrace Area
The Kids are All Right 5.7 The Royal Arches Terrace Area
Lower Arch Traverse 5.3 The Royal Arches Terrace Area
Piton Traverse 5.7 Washington Column
Washington Column, Direct Route 5.7 Washington Column
Lunch Ledge 5.6 Washington Column
Skid Row 5.8 Washington Column North Dome
Werner's Crack 5.8 Tenaya Canyon, North Mirror Lake
Snow Creek Slabs 5.7 Tenaya Canyon, North Snow Creek
Watkins Pinnacles, from Tenaya Canyon 5.8 Tenaya Canyon, North Mt. Watkins
Middle Watkins Pinnacle 4 Tenaya Canyon, North Mt. Watkins
Cloud's Rest, Northwest Face 5.8 Tenaya Canyon, South Cloud's Rest
Cloud's Rest, Northwest Ledges 5.5 Tenaya Canyon, South Cloud's Rest
Grizzly Peak, West Face 5.5 Half Dome
Diving Board - West Side 4 Half Dome
Grizzly Peak, Southwest Arete 4 Half Dome
LeConte Gully 4 Half Dome
Diving Board - From Little Yosemite 3 Half Dome
Diving Board - From Mirror Lake 3 Half Dome
Grizzly Peak, From its Notch 3 Half Dome
Grizzly Peak, South Arete 3 Half Dome
Snake Dike 5.7 R Half Dome Southwest Face
Happy Gully 5.8 Half Dome South Face
Sierra Point, Southeast Farce 5.6 Upper Merced Canyon, North Sierra Point
Vernal Falls, Right Side 5.8 Upper Merced Canyon, North Vernal Falls
Starr King, Mt., West Face 5.8 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Starr King, Mt., East Face 5.7 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Starr King, Mt., From the Southeast Saddle 4 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Starr King, Mt., Northeast Slopes 4 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Panorama Cliff 5.4 Upper Merced Canyon, South Panorama Cliff
George's Secretary 5.8 Upper Merced Canyon, South Illilouette Gorge
Tennis Shoe Crack 5.6 Upper Merced Canyon, South Illilouette Gorge
Illilouette Falls, West Side 4 Upper Merced Canyon, South Illiouette Falls
Harding Route 5.7 Glacier Point
Glacier Point Terrace 5.2 Glacier Point
The Cow, Left 5.8 R Glacier Point Apron, East
The Grack, Right Side 5.8 R/X Glacier Point Apron, East
Roller Coaster 5.8 R/X Glacier Point Apron, East
The Cow, Right 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, East
The Grack, Left Side 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, East
Glacier Point, East Face 5.6 Glacier Point Apron, East
The Grack, Center Route 5.6 Glacier Point Apron, East
The Cow, Center 5.5 R Glacier Point Apron, East
Harry Daley Route 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Hinterland (Oasis to rim) 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Monday Morning Slab, Far East 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route 5.8 R Glacier Point Apron, Center
Patio Pinnacle, Right Side 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Chouinard Crack 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Goblet, Center 5.6 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Goblet, Left 5.4 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Goblet, Right 5.4 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side 5.4 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side 5.2 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Wild Wild West 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, Far West
Point Beyond Direct 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, West
Cosmic Comedy 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, West
The Bannister 5.8 Sentinel Rock
The Block 5.5 Sentinel Rock
Sentinel Rock, East Arete 5.5 Sentinel Rock
Sentinel Spire 5.5 Sentinel Rock
Potato Masher 5.4 Sentinel Rock
The Nail 4 Sentinel Rock
Chockblock Chimney 5.8 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Right
The Den 5.8 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Right
Icons of Filth 5.7 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Right
Bryan's Crack 5.8 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Far Right
Tilted Mitten, Right Side 5.8 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
The Bay Bush 5.6 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pohono Pinnacle; North Face 5.6 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pohono Pinnacle; Northwest Corner 5.6 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pohono Pinnacle; West Sope 4 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route 5.8 Sentinel Rock Pharaoh's Beard Area
Lost Brother, Regular Route 5.6 Sentinel Rock Lost Brother
Promulgated Pinnacle 5.5 Sentinel Rock Lost Brother
Lost Brother, Southwest Side 4 Sentinel Rock Lost Brother
Taft Point Arete 5.7 Sentinel Rock Taft Point
Hangover Buttress 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Phantom Pinnacle Area
The Ski Jump 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Phantom Pinnacle Area
Church Tower, Southwest Notch 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area
Church Tower, North Face 5.6 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area
Church Tower, East Arete 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area
The Braille Book 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
The Dictionary 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
The Sequel 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
The Syllable 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
Cathedral Chimney 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
Penny Pinnacle; North Face 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
Middle Cathedral Rock, Northwest Buttress 5.6 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
Penny Pinnacle; South Face 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
Gunsight 4 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
The Pedistal 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
Stand and Deliver 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
Desperate for Doughnuts 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, North Face, Apron
The Flakes 5.8 R Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, Gunsight Gully Area
Overhang Bypass 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Lower Cathedral Rock, North Buttress Area
Leaning Tower, Traverse 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Leaning Chimney 5.4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Leaning Tower, East Face 5.4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Leaning Tower, Northeast Slopes 4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Amoeba, The Left Side 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
The Cracker, Right Side 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
Rycrisp 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
The Cracker, Southwest Corner 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
Improbable Traverse 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, South Pulpit Rock, Southeast Face
Lost on Venus 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, South High Pressure Cliff
Shiver-Me-Timbers 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, South Cream Area
The Rostrum, From the Notch 5.4 Lower Merced Canyon, South The Rostrum, West, Base
The Rostrum, The Notch Route 5.4 Lower Merced Canyon, South The Rostrum, West, Base
Real Error 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, South Elephant Rock, East Side
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 10, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Some routes in the High Sierra that are on my to-do list (someday) -
Mt. Sill, Swiss Arete (5.7)
Charlotte Dome, South Face (5.8)
Bear Creek Spire, North Arete (5.8)
Matterhorn Peak, North Arete (5.7)
Mt. Conness, West Ridge (5.6)
Mt. Whitney, East Buttress (5.7 - 5.8)
btw I notice the supertopo for Selaginella recommends it for 5.8 - 5.9 leaders. Presently I think I'm more of a 5.7 - 5.8 leader, honestly.
I notice some warnings above .. any other recommendations on 5.8's that might be a bit too much to bite off right now ?
btw2 Looking forward to doing South Crack again this summer :)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 10, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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Bishop's Terrace is a must-do 5.8. Very well protected too, just hold onto your #2 Camalots (maybe a #3 too) for the top section as much as possible.
Try to run-out the lower section with smaller gear. It's pretty easy. Just look for smaller pro, save the bigger stuff for the top.
It's not that hard if you're comfortable TRing 5.8, 5.9. Just stay in the cracks and and use flesh. Tape is for pussies! Jam, baby!
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monolith
climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 12:06am PT
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I loved the first pitch of Selaginella, but my follower yelled 'get me out of here' in such a way that I knew I could not talk him into going further so I had to lower him and bail. Funny how climbing perception can be sometimes.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 11, 2010 - 12:09am PT
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I thought the South Face of North Dome route is one of the Valley Classics! Didn't see it on anybodys list? Great position, good and hard pitches and its rating is sandbagged. 5.8 would be sensible and more real, what do you think??.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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May 11, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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Notably Knobular 5.8X as I recall.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Hell A
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May 11, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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Harry Daley, Bishops Terrace
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 01:58am PT
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Wow, Ed! Thanks for that extensive list! I'm copying it off right now and will get right on it. Woo hoo!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 11, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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The s. face of north dome is a gem. the reason it's not here is that it has traditionally been rated 5.7. 5.8 is it's supertopo upgrade, but a fair one.
Per Reid, arrowhead arête is one of the best 8's in the valley! Braille Book too.
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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awesome, you guys rock! i've now got quite the list of 5.8s to work on! (thanks Ed especially).
Rhyang, if it helps at all, the 5.8s I found tricky and backed off of this past year included: Nurdle, 2nd pitch of the Surprise, and Bongs Away Left. But the whole 5.8/5.9 rating in the valley can be so different (like I thought the 5.9 2nd pitch of Jam Crack and Superslide were pretty mellow), though I've decided to put off leading Braille Book for a bit. You'll definitely love the Swiss Arete and Conness.
I am definitely curious to try out the S. Face of North Dome someday...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 11:48am PT
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I owe karma a lead on the transition pitch from the slab to the face... love to go back and do S. Face N. Dome again... amazingly stout, quality route much longer than Crest Jewel....
Before you use that list, ask about your targeted climb here for some gentle beta... routes like Notably Knobular really should be done with extreme caution and foresight, it is an X lead on crumbly knobs... not recommended.
And some of those routes no longer exist....
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 11, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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North Dome South Face is on a friend's list too. That would be a very long day and probably an epic, at least for a gumby like me. I can dream ..
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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May 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Little John right is pretty damn fun!
nutcracker is pretty unbeatable too...
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 11, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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There are also many newer "5.8's" but some might be a little burly (see Ed's comment). Anyhow, some of them can be found by looking at Clint's website.
Also bump for a GREAT post!
kev
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 11, 2010 - 07:12pm PT
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Ed, if Crest Jewel isn't long enough for you, then you need to include the direct start. ;-)
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 11, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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I don't remember Selaginella being a climb where you needed to be more than a 5.8 leader, but I can understand the route finding part...
The wide bit on the first pitch is pretty friendly and one could always take a few larger cams.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 11, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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There are also many newer "5.8's" but some might be a little burly (see Ed's comment)
Those are technically not 5.8's, they're 5.8b's. I got spit out of one, ya bastid!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 12, 2010 - 09:53am PT
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The wide bit on the first pitch is pretty friendly and one could always take a few larger cams.
I see the supertopo for that part says 10-12" .. I think I can manage arm bars, chicken wings and heel-toe when necessary. The steep #4-5 camalot cracks seem like they might be a problem for me.
At PG Sunnyvale in the 'icebox' area for example we have a "narrow" OW and a "wide" OW. I can manage the wide one (at least until halfway up the flaring part) with heel-toe and chicken wings but in the narrower one I'm still thrashing once it opens up to 4-5" size.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 12, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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It has been a little while since I have been on the route, but I sure don't remember any arm bars or chicken wings. I seem to recall either finding features inside the crack or reaching past wide spots and the wide sections is fairly short. Knowing how to use your feet on wide cracks helps. Not trying to sandbag anybody, but for a Yosemite wide section I still think this one is pretty friendly.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 12, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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Cool, thanks !
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LB4USC
Trad climber
Long Beach
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May 13, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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Bump
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 13, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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I forgot about S. Face of North Dome. That's a great route.
I don't know about 5.7 vs 5.8 vs 5 fun, but there is a lot of nice climbing on the route.
The step around to change crack systems is weird and intimidating, but once you find the right way, it's not bad at all.
Funny, the time I climbed it was with Todd S, when he was drawing up the supertopo for the route.
I hope the topo is accurate- we simul climbed most of the route- ha! The inside scoop- the poop, if you will.
I'm glad someone brought this route up. I think I'd like to do it again.
We also did the fourth class descent of the west side of the Dome this is an excellent way to get down. It's sketchy and steep slab and if you do it right and don't die, it might even save three to four minutes extra that it would take to walk to the back of the dome and take the trail back down to Royal Arches.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 14, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Keep the thread alive!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 14, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Now that my leg is rehabilitated from my achilles rupture, I'm starting to tour a bunch of classics.
5.8 is a lot like 5.10...Should have a a, b, c and d, gradings. Some I'd solo anyday, others make me take seriously with gear.
Soloed that Alleged 5.7 in North Dome years ago onsight. Crapped my pants repeatedly! More like nutcracker than After Six for sure!
Peace
Karl
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 12:08am PT
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I seem to recall a place after the cross over where the crack runs out to get to a ledge. I was thinking of soloing I think when we did it. That part looked tough, also the step around part was tough to find the right way but easy. I was glad to plug a cam in for sure.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 15, 2010 - 10:32am PT
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My comparison rating for Yosemite vs. other main US climbing areas:
Big Walls A+
5.11 and above A
5.10 A
5.9 B
5.8 and below C
It's the nature of the rock, the lower grades tend to be slabby and not too interesting vs. other areas like the Gunks and Eldo.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 15, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
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My 2cents worth.
I agree with donini that many of the Valley 5.8s aren't such great routes. Mostly because they've got only short sections of 5.8 or they don't get you very high.
Arrowhead Arete and Selaginella are both excellent 5.8's
I like them both because they're a full day with plenty of long sections of 5.7-5.8 and maybe 5.8+
Arrowhead Arete is a truly spectacular climb: a 1500' approach, a true knife edge ridge, gendarmes and has a tricky descent so you're not down till you're down. Be sure to start early and to take headlamps. Exposure makes you pause in places.
Selaginella's got some tricky lead sections. Pro isn't always where you'd like it. And a strenuous, exposed, spectacular lieback finish.
Being able to lead 5.9 is definitely an asset.
The OW at the base of Selaginella can be bypassed with the steep hand crack to the right. Which might actually be a little harder.
Do them both in a weekend and you've earned a rest.
InMyHumbleOpinion.
Has anybody ever gone UP from the end of Arrowhead Arete?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Tami talked about going to the rim from the top of Arrowhead Arete... and walking the Falls Trail to the floor.
donini has a point, which reveals itself everytime some asks me to name a few 5.8 and below climbs worth doing in the Valley, I have trouble doing it...
...but having climbed in the 'Gunks, I've got to say that many climbs there rated 5.8 would seem sandbagged for someone coming into that area with no experience. Because of the uniqueness of some 'Gunks climbing, i.e. overhangs.
I haven't pranced in Eldo, so I don't know, but I suspect the same would be true there.
There are many very good 5.8's and below in the Valley, but the density of those climbs is relatively low, making it difficult to go from one to the other easily... you have to work for those climbs, you don't have the luxury of their being located close together.
And you have the problem, as in other areas, that there are some distinctly Yosemite Valley characteristics that can be a problem for someone working up through those grades.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 15, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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Well, with all the above said then I'm back to saying that I think the "South Face of North Dome" is one of the Valley Classics. Its right in line with Nutcracker and the Braille Book. Its 5 Star as far as I'm concerned. Its got everything you need to climb to call yourself a competent 5.8 leader, route finding, thin crack, face, lie back, offwidth, a great and beautiful setting, major exposure and you end up on top of a big dome, no rapping.......if you do it right. Every pitch is heads up and its only rated 5.7!!
We took the easy almost level hike on the trail from the Tioga Road to the top of North Dome with big packs and spent the night on top with all the luxuries and a grand view. Late at night it started getting really windy and blowing us around in our bivy sacks, making us almost think about tying in at one point! We stashed our big packs the next morning and took our smaller ones and headed down to the base. After finishing we re-packed and hiked out. A great weekend and one of the best multi-pitch (8 pitches) I've done.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Word of advice for 5.8 climbers looking for 5.8 climbs in the supertopo guide. Gollum Right is a sandbag (with bad falls).
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 15, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
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The first time I climbed the SF of ND, I had no idea that it was a stroll in from Tuolumne. Imagine my surprise when, after climbing for quite a long time, I found a dozen people w/ tripods and easels on the summit!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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The Dove, sounds cool. I tried to spot that buttress once, but couldn't see where it was. I'll have another look...
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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Zeta, here's a big recommendation for Little John Right. A real adventure. Be sure you get good pro at the p.1 crux, it is stout and not that high above the ground. The step-across looks unbelievable as you wobble there looking at it, but is well protected and goes fine. Solid little bit of Yosemite 5.7 hand crack to finish. Then you can TR or lead LJ Left which is seriously slick rock.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 02:37am PT
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Audobon is easy to spot from up on Fireplace Bluffs....
I haven't climbed on it yet.
Bob was exploring up around Fireplace and thought he had found a new crag!
But I mentioned Audobon, and he realized it matched up to what he had "found"! :-)
The 2+ hour approach will keep the crowds away. :-)
(But the 1 hour and 20 minute approach to Braille Book hasn't kept me away, so who knows...)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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Granite generally sucks when it comes to the 5.8 range and the Valley is no exception. Best places for 5.8 are the Gunks for single pitch and Red Rocks for multi-pitch. In the Gunks the 5.7's might be more like the 5.8's you're accustomed to.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:16am PT
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a picture of Audubon Buttress, Duncan Imperial 5.11a
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jun 14, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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We hiked in to Audubon last summer only to be blasted off the first pitch by lightning!!!
I think we did the wrong first pitch to the dove, there is a chimney and a stem corner, we did the stem corner which felt harder than 5.7, though maybe I was exhausted from the approach. The tree at the belay ledge is gone, there are some decaying roots still there. Splitter looked great.
Approach is 2 hours, which includes extra time for tip-toeing around poison oak. In terms of effort and finding the route, BB is a walk in the park. If you go to this spot on the busiest climbing day of the season, you will be alone. Nice views from a unique location.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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Such a nice cliff. I love it, and little wing, and nuts only. Haven't been on fifi buttress though.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
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just did Selaginella, it is a great route and when you combine it with a another great route on the cliff below it makes for an awesome day. just watch your rope drag.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jun 16, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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Bump for my favorite 5.8.
Selaginella's got some tricky lead sections. Pro isn't always where you'd like it. And a strenuous, exposed, spectacular lieback finish.
Being able to lead 5.9 is definitely an asset.
The OW at the base of Selaginella can be bypassed with the steep hand crack to the right. Which might actually be a little harder.
I'm not looking to sew it up, but I don't remember it being runnout. I think it is more intimidating than hard/runnout. For a 5.8~5.9 leader who has not done much OW, is the OW at the base that shutdown? I guess this is a reminder to go do the route again because I can't remember doing any real OW on it.
Why would you want to do a "strenuous lieback finish", when you can grovel up the squeeze chimney? A hand jam, a fist jam and then work your body behind the flake (as a squeeze chimney). The edge of the flake is very thin. You can get a good grip with the left hand simply by pinching the flake. Much less exposed, and you can hang out and enjoy the spectacular view.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 16, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Hi August West
on Selaginella
I agree with you. Not really runout.
Why lieback when you can grovel the chimney?
Always seemed like a good idea at the time.
And I love liebacks.
One man's fist crack might be another woman's OW.
The right side crack at the base swallows a man's climbing shoe (and won't let go......ask me how I know).
So call it WIDE fist or narrow OW. It's strenuous for 5.8. So 5.8+ or 5.9? Didn't say it would shut a 5.8 climber down, just might make you work a bit harder than you expected.
I'm negotiable.
Anyway you do it, with the Commitment linkup a fine 5.8 day.
donini
There are a few Valley 5.8s that give several pitches of fine climbing at grade.
You're probably too busy putting up routes like Basket Case to pay them any mind. Not that there's ANYTHING wrong with that!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Jun 16, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
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A bunch of people have mentioned Commitment. But I also think that The Caverns is pretty fun. Its a little wander-y at the top.
All in all, though, I have to agree with donini, that the 5.8s at the Gunks tend to be a little more engaging.
-Nick
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Perseus
Big Wall climber
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Jun 16, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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My last time in the valley, I did The Caverns - a good amount of choss, but not your typical route. A lot of variable climbing with some really cool features.
The Golden Needle was awesome!! The second pitch has some fantastic jamming and committing liebacking - enjoyed it immensely!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Bump
and where the Heck is Fireplace Bluffs? Is it the large dome visible above the Old Big Oak Flat Rd west of Audobon Buttress? And how do you find Audobon Buttress?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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I'll just chime in here (late, as usual) with the valley 5.8's that I enjoyed.
Manure Pile Buttress: After Seven, Nutcracker
Glacier Point Apron: Harry Daley Route, Point Beyond
Church Bowl: Bishop's Terrace
Five Open Books: Try Again ledge (tricky start, and a PG13), Commitment (has a few 5.9 moves).
"On my list" to do sometime: Trial By Fire, Nurdle, Ejesta, Golden Needles, and Church Bowl Lieback.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Via Aqua
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Barbarian
Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
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Thinking about trying to lead Harry Daley this year .. how much do people use offset nuts / cams on the first pitch ?
It goes just fine with plain old Stoppers. Never needed anything else there.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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It goes just fine with plain old Stoppers. Never needed anything else there. For the traverse: small stoppers, at least one opposition stopper placement, IIRC. Excellent practice in protecting a thin, horizontal crack. Don't fall anyway.
Small TCU's C4/C3 Camalots help-a-lot these days.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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A lot of people have mentioned the Harry Daley route with Point beyond after. Don't mix it up with Point Beyond Direct which is a whole other world. I think Clint Cummins mentioned it up thread as having one bolt on the slab and run out. He's right on and the climbing is 5.9+ to a weird corner move protected by the weirdest home made ring bolt contraption ever seen. NOT for the beginning 5.8 or even 5.9 leader.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Rodger, you will love Ejesta and Nurdle. Just did Golden Needles and Commitment this weekend. Really nice routes.
Another party on Nurdle (did it last spring, did it again this weekend)
Link up with the 5.8 second pitch of Knob Job for a great time. Rap off with a single 70m or two ropes.
Sweet double cracks on Golden Needles
(another one where a 70m will be good for the rap)
Great 5.8 crack on Commitment's p1
Murcy on second pitch of Commitment, just below crux roof (that one was MINE :)
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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great pics rhyang....glad you like Golden Needles. It's a great 2nd pitch!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Oct 10, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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Yeah, after a little off-road action in the land of dispersed camping,
Rob and I played on Golden Needles,
Nurdle (first time for me, very fun), but clearly not the first time for this soloist bringing up a rope to play on nearby routes,
Sherrie's Crack (top-rope) (I was content to hang-dog my way up the evil tips part to get to the great hand crack),
Generator Crack (which oddly seemed much more exhausting than it did two weeks ago when Joey F. took this picture of the crux lowering-without-throwing-up),
and Commitment, with very nice leads of the cruxes by Robert.
More was planned but I was super out-of-it and unwilling to push it. Turned out that my night chills and drenched sweats were not sleeping-bag mismanagement after all, but some kind of cold/flu fever deal (my first in 3 years, and it starts 2 days after I get a flu shot--coincidence?), so I am glad to have held up for at least a good passel of awesome routes.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 10, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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Last time I got a flu shot I felt sick the next weekend too. Kind of wondered if something wasn't quite right .. glad we went home when we did. Get well soon !
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 10, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
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Rob-
I've done Commitment, but many years ago. I also enjoyed The Surprise, and have done it both ways, the traverse to the right on p.2 (1980) and also the 5.10a finish (1981). Try Again Ledge is O.K. after the first 20 feet or so, which is a bit spooky and hard to protect. Your pictures of Golden Needles and Nurdle make them look very attractive. I still need to do Hanging Teeth and The Caverns on the FOB.
Rodger
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Bumping for Valley 5.8 - first I saw this thread
Awesome list Ed - thanks
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Clint included Brown is Black. This beast is not 5.8. Only a confident 5.9+/5.10 leader should attempt it IMO.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Move them to RR where they will be happy to know that they are actually 5.9.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 06:36am PT
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Bumping for the Audubon-Buttress-curious, among whose ranks I include myself.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 17, 2014 - 06:43am PT
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And I'm Try Again Ledge-curious, Rodger.
Why a PG-13?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Oct 17, 2014 - 07:11am PT
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How about the Cow left? It used to be kinda run out but it was great fun.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 17, 2014 - 07:29am PT
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Mouse-
Only the start, which is hard to protect for about the first 20-30 feet is PG13. The rest of the climb segues into The Caverns.
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| Messages 1 - 92 of total 92 in this topic |
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