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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 28, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
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Not sure of the ethics on this idea but....
Making sport climbs out of the classic Stoney Toprope would be OK, IMHO. BUT some folks tried that and the bolts lasted about 4 hours....that was back in 1986???? there abouts.
In the early 2000's Mike Reardon and Co... put in a lot of TR anchors and some Slackliners did the same .... after Mike passed, RIP old friend, some folks took it upon themselves to remove all of these bolts.... only bolts that were placed for TR "back in the day" were left for TR's. (these bolts do get replaced from time to time.)
I was lucky enuf to have been handed 28 bolt hangers from this latest effort. All of them have now been used at a fine place out in "The Desert".
Change happens slowly and I have been thinking about just what climbs would need good TR anchors and which ones have good natural anchors.
I think that one of the coolest things about Stoney is this: Its a place to learn about Climbing, a place to put in your own gear, rig a TR and then trust it.... thats a lot different than clipping into bolted TR anchors .... like at the Apes Wall.
see you around. - say hi
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Apr 28, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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I think that one of the coolest things about Stoney is this: Its a place to learn about Climbing, a place to put in your own gear, rig a TR and then trust it.... thats a lot different than clipping into bolted TR anchors ....
Guy ... Bump
ALTHOUGH ... I wish there was ...
some route at SP to practice Multi-pitch Belay Station stuff. you know, lead 1st pitch, set up belay station to belay follower, swap leads, and belay 2nd pitch ... each pitch could nothing more than 20ft ... My 1st thought would be that shelf just above Red Bolt Tower ... but there is no climbable route up from there. My 2nd thought would be S-Crack ... but that would mean fixed anchor bolts half-way up for the pitch 2 belay station. And, I suppose you would still need to setup a TR anyway cuz I don't think you could place any Trad pro for the 2nd pitch ... and a fall while leading from there, w/o pro (TR or Trad) would not be good.
Anyway ... sorry for the rant ...
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Apr 28, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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I think that one of the coolest things about Stoney is this: Its a place to learn about Climbing, a place to put in your own gear, rig a TR and then trust it.... thats a lot different than clipping into bolted TR anchors ....
YES!
This is one of the best things about Stoney!
I remember getting some of my first gear from REI down the road and heading straight to Stoney
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 29, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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Blue Wing.... The closest thing to what you want is The Bolt ladder, its Aid... and one needs to know that skill. Some even set up a full bivi hanging 1/2 way up.....
Last Night, it was full. The weather was perfect, slight breeze, cool... pretty perfect for sending... a bunch of Dudes showed up, with babies!! and Dogs!!! It was big fun....some diapers got changed on boulder pads.
EDIT...Fixed
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 29, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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I'm dizzy now
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Apr 29, 2016 - 12:14pm PT
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Me too!
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Alright Stoney Point thread... I feel like I finally have reason to give thanks and bump this thread.
About two years ago, my climbing mentor and friend took me to stoney point- in disbelief that I hadn't been there yet (having lived in LA for 4 years and he knew I liked to climb) and showed me around b1 and turlock. I asked him how I could become efficient and safe at trad climbing and he said that bouldering is an easy way to get your comfort on routes where you want it.
After flailing around and making some of the easiest ways up and down things- I struggled with my first of the many classic problems at Stoney- 'three little pigs'. About 3 months later after 12 or 13 tries I finally stuck it. i never missed it after that.
'Slime' the classic a bit further in took me longer... almost 6 months of visiting every week or two (or three). but again, it became a favorite. my first V1. There are too many fun problems to mention but suffice it to say I climbed around the point for two years trying to make every 0 and 1 in the guidebook and not making anything in the 2s, 3s, or beyond.
This past week- on a wednesday morning, I sent my first '2' in the park... 'pancake'... which is a short problem with a stout little mantle. There are still plenty of stoney-point-1's that I get shut down on. After the success of pancake- I gave 'Kodas Corner' an effort, probably my 4th or 5th visit to the problem. with the help of two friendly stoney visitors and our 4 pads- I made the send, and got my first 3 only days after making my first 2. The joy of topping out kodas was great after hearing some tough stories from two different parties who both broke ankles at kodas!
now onto 'the crack', the traverses, and the many classic problems i've yet to send.
I can thank stoney point for my peace, my strength, my entertainment, my inspiration... See you guys out there. get some sends in before its grease season! : )
didn't make this one, its from my first trip to the lip though.
the mantle got my wrists a bit
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Sterner
Boulder climber
Topanga, CA
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Huff n puff and.... Wait! It's three pigs! Not little! :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 18, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Last nite was pretty fun.... besides the usual crew, some folks from Germany stopped by....
and there was a tragedy... Young Joe flew off of "Masters". Dave Kats stepped in and gave him a four star spot, keeping his ass off the dirt. Dave paid the price though, catching a elbow to the side of his head... made for a big bloody welt. That one took a bunch of first aid....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 18, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
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1978.... Three stripe Adidas, way ahead of the game.
nice stuff Swelley.... got any more???
QUESTION: Who has information on the Boy Scout Troop, TROOP 510 I believe.
IIRC many of the Stoney Regulars came from that organization.
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Dogtown.
Trad climber
Marshell islands atoll
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May 19, 2016 - 07:32am PT
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All roads lead back to Stoney. just like all surf spots lead back to P.O.P.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2016 - 08:10am PT
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Guyman looks like a bloody hockey fight!
katz will be okay..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 26, 2016 - 09:27am PT
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This is Goyle...
Swelly... keep em coming.
Temps are just perfect at Stoney now.... bring a jacket for the late afternoons.
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chefer
climber
Altadena, CA
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May 31, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Has anybody taken the metrolink to stoney? I don't have regular access to a car at the moment and was wondering if it was feasible. Is it a very far walk from the station to the park?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 31, 2016 - 05:50pm PT
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Hi.... I have walked from the Chatsworth station to Stoney... its about 1.5-2 miles.
One can hop a bus up Topanga, but heck you can see Stoney from the station....
for a real historical trip... hop the metro as it leaves Chatsworth headed to Simi..... and just before it goes into the tunnel, jump off- Just Like Royal and Evon did BITD..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Fish.... Hi, we have been thinking about it....
I will PM you.
The last time was a hoot.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Thank You Russ.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I'm done with work tomorrow for the summer. Was thinking of going tonight but way to effin hot. Next week l see ya there.
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