STONEY POINT

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Messages 2041 - 2060 of total 2832 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jul 3, 2014 - 11:18am PT
Yea Sam. Only me Jeff and the ladies for now. Aaron will join us Saturday. The circuits at Font are amazing. Just like a golf course. You start and follow a series of painted arrows and numbers on problems of similar difficulty that take you on a loose circle so you end not to far from where you started. Probably did 40 problems today and that was only at one small area. Afterward we got beer and wine and chilled on the lawn at chteau de Fontainebleau, a nearby castle. Amazing. A trip of dreams in a forest to match. Have to wait to post up the good photos till I get back as I have no way of transferring them off my camera right now.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
Stay safe Matty!

T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Jul 4, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
Another fine day comes to an end

Credit: guyman
Nice image. That, or a similar shot from the same location would make for a good (Stoney Point) T-shirt design.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jul 10, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
Shut down by 4 straight days of storm dumping snow on the matterhorn. Sucks but so goes life in the big mountains...back to the font

Edit: make that 5 - still storming today
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 06:40am PT
matty u should send anyways!
ive seen pictures of that thing like foruk syas its a cake walk....
bbq sounds fun!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 19, 2014 - 09:02am PT
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Farouk

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!What did ya climb?????????????????

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT HOT???????????????????????????????????????????????

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Dave Yearian on Endo Boy
Dave Yearian on Endo Boy
Credit: Yafer collection

Credit: Yafer collection

A way back shot.... Peater cranking.
A way back shot.... Peater cranking.
Credit: guyman

Top of Stoney, looking down Topanga
Top of Stoney, looking down Topanga
Credit: guyman

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!C-YA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 23, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
I was really happy to see Greg Olsen show his face at the point last Tuesday.

Last year Greg had a pretty big stroke. And he said to me, "last year was a pretty hard year for me"

Great to see you back on the stone my friend.

matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jul 23, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
Gregg is the sh#t. Inspiring in so many ways. Glad to know him as a friend/musician/climber.

Beta-pete

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 27, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
That "Freeway Crack" went free, laybacking at stout 5.10, when I did it with Mike Guardino back in '86. It had been free climbed for many years. Then the Gargoyle & I pushed a new little thing up the face above, naming it "The G-Spot", which ticked in at mid-ish 5.11. We set up a TR on both using Lost Arrows I drove into the scant cracks on the summit block. I removed the pins, so there was no fixed anchor. The Freeway crack is one of the best of its kind for Stoney Point, nestled in the afternoon shade far from the crowds and hidden from the highway noise. Since very few have climbed it, it is free of the grease many of the other cracks hold in the back canyons of the main area to the south. Combining the layback crack with "The G Spot" makes for a long-ish, pumpy climb that would be very popular...were it not for the location and the lack of a convenient anchor.
Beta-pete

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 27, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
Back in 1987 a new 5.12 TR went up on the overhanging wall left of "The Prow". Quickly, "Vicious" became rather popular, for it offered a place to work the power needed to go "up", which was not to be found in the countless traverse routes common to the area. We'd wait for the cool afternoon shade and run laps on it for power-endurance training. My record was 5, and the object was to lower as fast as possible to minimize the "rest" between laps. Mike "Gargoyle" Gardino, John "Yabo" Yablonski and I made the FA of a route that shared the start with "Vicious", but headed up a dark ramp up and left. "Walk the Plank" ticked in at 5.12-, but unlike its neighbor, the top was a series of insecure moves on inobvious slopers...it never became popular. Here's a shot from 1989 of me running lapse on "Vicious". I hear the place is infested with nasty bees...sounds like time to get the exterminator![photo
A better view of the holds leading to the crux on "Vicious", 5.12-, on...
A better view of the holds leading to the crux on "Vicious", 5.12-, on the wall right of the "A Frame".
Credit: Beta-pete
id=369868]
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 07:59am PT
thank's beta pete
Back in 1987 a new 5.12 TR went up on the overhanging wall left of "The Prow". Quickly, "Vicious" became rather popular, for it offered a place to work the power needed to go "up", which was not to be found in the countless traverse routes common to the area.
Credit: pyro

the back wall area is awesome!
Mike Waugh added/replaced the bolts for ease of Tr set up.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 28, 2014 - 10:03am PT
Pete.... The Freeway now has some bolts up on top... one need some long runners to rig it properly.

some photos way up thread.

thanks for posting....

do you ever get back to the SFV?

Beta-pete

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 28, 2014 - 10:39am PT
This image better shows the overhanging nature of "Vicious". Here is Peter Hayes entering the crux on a lap session one afternoon back in the fall of 1989. "Walk the Plank", .12-, confronts the bald face above the little black pillar at the end of the "ramp" to the left. The Gargoyle, Yabo & Peter did the FA of that in the same year, but it never achieved the popularity of "Vicious", the climb that shared its start.
Peter Hayes entering the crux of "Vicious", 5.12-, to the right of "A ...
Peter Hayes entering the crux of "Vicious", 5.12-, to the right of "A Frame" on the backside of Stoney Point. Pumping lapse in 1989.
Credit: Beta-pete
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 12, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
The Sea Breeze started kicking up about 2:30 today in Chatsworth.

Takes the EDGE ofF of the heat.

Hope to see you all - esp FAROUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Aug 13, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
Some hard stuff on that back wall. Every few years or so some chalk appears.

Watched an out-of-town guy onsight lead that disintegrating flared crack. He was goooooood. (late 80's)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2014 - 07:31am PT
spider top rope season is right around the corner ill let ya know!

which crack do u speak of?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Aug 14, 2014 - 08:27am PT
The flared one that is greased with ancient bee's wax. Only goes up about 20 ft. You gotta be damn strong.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2014 - 10:24am PT
ok kool! the back area has some old obscure climbs..
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 15, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
Farouk..... don't know, top ropin anit Bouldering.

All the girls were bouldering at B1 and Turlock... That is where I was hanging.
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