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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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We went off boot flake. I thought that was where the route started.
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Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
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Thank you, Werner. We may have found another myth, then, being propogated by SuperTopo...the guide says something about how they found this great line up the captain after everyone thought it was climbed out...so the route must have been their "tribal rite"...
When are you coming back to the valley, Ed? I think you should ditch Zodiac and go for something else on the Captain this time. And have a longer time frame for, er, Pete's sake. ;)
Pete, thanks again for posting this, I've read it twice. And even tho your previous style never bothered me, this one is improved...less font trickery, less wordy, just fun and real. Nice Work!
-Kate.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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.. hehe .. for sure .. kate is right ..
one surefire way to fail on el cap is to put a schedule on it .. (unless you are way hard like ammon, or hans, et al) ..
.. slow folks who want to solo el cap can get it done by doing 2 pitches a day... this fall i'm taking 2 weeks from work, but i've told my boss that if i dont get back in time, its because i'm stuck 2000' off the deck on el cap..
.. ed .. you could do Tangerine .. i thought it was easier than zodiac. (way less heads or small cracks)
7 days solo is pretty cush schedule .. could be done faster w/out crowds.
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macgyver
Social climber
Oregon, but now in Europe
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Great Trip Report! It is nice to have PTPP take the time and effort to format and present his works. I agree that the style is improved (a touch less narcissistic) and I like the photos so much that I have visited it twice.
Now if we can only get Kate (Holdplease2) to post some good trip reports with lots of photos of her kicking butt...yet she seems to solo so who is going to hold the camera.... volunteers?
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Pete - Maybe you should "bump" the ten threads (in reverse order). Keeps the good stuff on the first page. ;)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 09:06am PT
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Hi y'all,
It's really encouraging and most importantly motivating to get so much positive feedback! It makes the effort feel worthwhile, and I'm so glad you are enjoying the show.
I'll try to answer everyone's questions in order:
Matt: I don't suppose you have heard of Napoleonic Complex, have you?
Blight, Tradhog, Quartz: Concur {yawn}
Rhodo-Router: Concur {burp}
Russ, 426, Bryan, Mike., Martha, Shack, Quartz, John Mac, Tokyo Bill, Macgyver, Tradslgood: You're welcome! As I wrote above, I am very encouraged by your kind words.
Kristin, Sewellymon [what does your user name mean??] John Mac: Dr. Piton dot com did exist, and I was just getting it started. Theo - Ahwahnee Bartender put a lot of effort into it, and I wasn't really keeping up my end of the deal. I had planned to give it a good working over during the winter to get it up and running. I need to get cracking because Mike! Clelland has been helping me as well with his superb custom cartoons. He is the best in the world at his craft, and I hate to squander the resource!
This being said, I hope Theo gets it back on line. If not, Randy has said he'll help me.
Accordingly, I am going to publish here in McTopo the one post I completed, which is the Better Way to clean an aid pitch. Just so you guys can get an idea of the type of information I plan to offer.
Matt, Ricardo, Donny: I was aware I was bending the rules a bit with the campfire. I wanted to know how everyone felt, and to try to find out if I actually broke any rules. I believe in minimizing the impact, too, and we kept the campfire quite small.
Mike.: I came up to El Cap Towers from the right, so no syrup. I'll confess the unprotectable 5.7 ramp had me a bit gripped.
Randy: Yes, send me the photos!
Far East: Grab two beers and call your Wall Doctor in the morning
Kevin: Thanks. Tribal Rite is hugely superior to Son Of Heart in my opinion. SOH is just OK - it's a stunning natural line, for sure, but it is quite dirty and uninspiring, the hauling sucks, and I hate chimneys. I do not recommend SOH. The headwall is brilliant, but you can reach it by the highly recommended Sunkist.
Ed: I would happily edit my posts at RC.com to take out the annoying fonts, if someone would give me the opportunity. They need cleaning up and other technical changes as well.
Werner and Kate: Yup, the story I believed was the one in the McTopo guide. Always cool to hear [someone's version of what they believe to be] the real deal.
Bryan: It is said that men with extraordinarily long penises* sometimes have a problem with depth perception, and that in some situations climbing gear appears to be closer together in the photo than it really is, due to a parallax phenomenon known as foreshortening. Yes, Yates Screamers and Scream Aids rock, and I can't imagine climbing a wall without a whole bunch of them.
Trads: I thought the annoyingly loud UPPER CASE LETTERS were more than enough to catch everyone's eye. This post is remaining near the top of the forum, and I encourage everyone to keep it there by replying if they enjoyed the photo essay.
* - sometimes this same thing happens when the bollocks of the lead climber have shrivelled, and he feels the need to leave a lot of protection in place
Watch for me next week in The Ditch, and thanks again!
Pete
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Calvinclimber
Big Wall climber
Bend, OR
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Pete,
Enjoyed the photos. Seeing climbing on El Cap is always motivating. Thanks for taking the time to post them.
Calvin
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Cool report pete!! Thanks for the perseverance with the report, it is appreciated. One thing I have never understood about your climbing style, is why all the crap? I think all will agree that hauling is the worst part about wall climbing. I am all about hauling only the necessities. Beer is the only thing in my haul bag that can be construde as unnecessary. Uh, I take that back, I only pack the necessities. Thanks Pete!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Last night I read the whole report and thought it was a very sweet TR. Got me jonsin for the big stone big time. Definately highlights the benfits of "pleasure wallin."
I watched Tom leading that A2 corner up high for a few hours from the meadow...and were were kinda joking about not being able to tell if he had moved at all during the whole time. I figured it was Pete leading though...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 06:14pm PT
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Tommy T - thanks! Most assuredly you get it.
Sewellymon - Geeez, ya should have told me it was you. How'z the MILF hunting these days?
Matt - Just because I spend a long time on the wall doesn't mean that when I'm leading, I move slowly. I merely spend a long time camping.
Blaine - geez, dude. Brain fart. Sorry. Thanks, and we'll do some craggin' this fall for sure! Thank your employer expense account for the sushi, eh?
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Duke
Social climber
PSP
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Pete, you will probably need an extra haul bag to jug your giant head up the next route after this thread.
RD
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 07:22pm PT
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Uh, welcome to the forum, Randy.
And it really is OK to write nice stuff, this being your first day and all. No shortage of haul bags, however.
Question to the web pros - are some of these photos not working now? How reliable is this image shack place, anyway? Should I reload, or what's the scoop?
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Duke
Social climber
PSP
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In terms of posting nice stuff, my post was safely in the upper quartile for this forum.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 07:40pm PT
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I'm aiming for the upper decile.
Take the high road, dude. Look to the summit.
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eddie7
Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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No worries Pete.
That was a great meal.
We'll swill some lager when you get back from the ditch.
cheers,
Blaine P.
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johngo
Trad climber
the beautiful Pacific NW
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Sep 10, 2005 - 12:11pm PT
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Hi Pete,
I'll add my voice to the chorus of very appreciative readers. (Wowzer, when you get Lambone actually sending you a compliment you know you have done well =^) I like how you managed to sneak in a few well placed aid lessons as well. It's clear you spent a LOT of time on this, and any more you ever care to write will be happily read by me!
Thanks for the great post,
johnGo
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Sep 10, 2005 - 12:17pm PT
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Pete, I'd just like to thank you for posting something that's about actual rock climbing.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Sep 10, 2005 - 05:36pm PT
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Hey pete, does that carrot thing go free? If so, at what grade?
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 10, 2005 - 05:57pm PT
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It was a great TR and we all got our jollies reading about climbing, not political drivel, but why hasn't anyone criticised at least a few things? Pete, you say to take the "high road", but how about recognizing a few errors? For instance, your partner not tying in his bad weather gear and his sleeping bag, then losing them? How about wandering around on a ledge untied? Dill's essay documents that is how several experienced climbers bit the dust. How about having such a long tie-in that when the pigs knock you off, you fall sideways, what was it, 60 feet, and the only reason you did not get hurt was that you were lucky there were no ledges, etc.
Pete, the pix were great, I enjoyed reading it, but if you want to teach The Better Way, how about recognizing a few errors? It is human to err, and all pencils have an eraser for a reason. But failing to learn from an error guarantees you will do it again. And up there, errors kill people.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 10, 2005 - 09:25pm PT
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Just remember David that Charlie Porter dropped his haul bag with his bivy gear from Lay lady ledge also. He went on to finish the route (FA New Dawn) without it, even though it’s only 6 pitches up and in fall with very cool weather.
We are forced to make mistakes, we must make mistakes, not that we can ever avoid them all no matter how cautious we are.
Otherwise we would be the controllers but instead we are being controlled.
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