TRIBAL RITE PHOTO ESSAY [pls start, finish & comment here]

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'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2005 - 08:59pm PT
Like, how’s it goin’, eh?

I decided to try something new for me, and post a photo essay trip report of our recent ascent of Tribal Rite on El Capitan. It seems like there is precious little climbing stuff on this forum these days, so maybe this will rekindle a bit of interest, and encourage others to do the same.

I wasn’t really sure the best way to present it, so here’s what I’ve done. I’ve split up the photos into ten posts, each post with about five photos hotlinked. You can just scroll down and read the story as you look at the photos. For me, this was the easiest and most effective way to present the story, since I can’t be bothered trying to learn how to set up web pages. Less pointing and clicking, just scroll down the page. However if anyone would volunteer to HTML-ize this thing for me so I could load it on a website, that would be most swell.

I apologize in advance to those of you still labouring under a dial-up connection – unfortunately it may take a bit of time for the photos to download. However if you have a faster connection, it should work OK as I made each of the photos about 200K, and I sized them 700 pixels wide as that seems to be the maximum width that will fit in the McTopo forum without making the post look too wide. I use 768 x 1024 pixels on my screen, so you might want to resize to this size if you are currently using 600 x 800. This is my first try at this, so I would welcome some constructive comments, and HELP. I'm going climbing, OK? I don't want to fart around with this thing too much! Sheesh.

And yeah, I'm aware that maybe I could have made the images a bit smaller, but I didn't want to, OK? I am tired of looking at crappy images on the internet all the time, and I wanted to present something of a higher quality than what you usually see. It might take a bit longer if you have dialup, and a bit more pointing and clicking, but I hope that isn't too much to ask.

Now here are the INSTRUCTIONS FOR LOOKING AT THE PHOTO ESSAY:

1. The post is in ten parts – this is the instruction page, and the photo essay follows in pages one to ten.

2. May I request that if you have any comments [or flames] to offer, that you please reply to this post only. This way we don’t have everything split into eleven different places. Fair enough?

3. Before you flame me for flames, would you please read what I have written about it? I am prepared to modify this behaviour in the future if there are justifiable grounds. I am quite aware I am walking the line on this one, and look forward to your constructive criticism if you think I’ve done something terribly wrong. The converse is also true.

4. If you want to flame me about something else, may I suggest you find the appropriate pre-existing post and use that instead? I would really like to keep this as an on-topic climbing-related post, and hope this request isn’t too much to ask. Thanks.

5. If you enjoy this photo essay – it was an enormous amount of work – and would like to see more, then please say so, as I need some positive reinforcement to repeat the effort.

6. There is no rule 6.

7. Grab a cup of coffee or a glass of beer [depending on whether you are reading this before or after Changeover Time] and enjoy! I’m warning you it’s going to take you a while to read, so make sure your vessel is fully topped up. And now that you know what I look like, if you see me in Yosemite, introduce yourself, and if there’s time, then like we’ll have a beer, eh?

You can click here to begin the Tribal Rite photo essay.

Cheers,

Pete
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:13pm PT
jeeze dude just post the damn pics, it doesn't need to be a doctoral thesis...
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:16pm PT
Yeah, really. And what's with the "under construction" crap?

(you really did wanna get flamed, eh?)

WBraun

climber
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:20pm PT
Ha ha ha Lol I just can't stop laughing hardman it's too funny.

Just try and give it a go though Pete.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2005 - 09:27pm PT
Frig. Two big problems.

1. HTML coding doesn't want to work for me.

Doing [url=""]tag[/url] isn't working! Arg. Trying to link the pages and put in interesting stuff. I seriously don't get it. Suggestions?

2. It would appear my webmaster has shut down my website where I had the photos posted. Anyone got a website I can upload the things? They are about 200 KB each and there are 47 or so I think.

I might just give up tonight and delete everything if I can't get the webspace sussed. Not worth the bother, even though I spent like twelve hours doing the damn thing. I am, after all, about to leave for El Cap. Priorities.
WBraun

climber
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:31pm PT
Pete

How about that image shack?

http://imageshack.us/
Shack

Social climber
So. Cal.
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:34pm PT
or http://photobucket.com/
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:36pm PT
How many times to I have to tell you, wanker?
Turn off the !@#$%^& hockey game and pay attention!
Werner beat me to the punch, but image shack works great for images
up to 1024 KB (or approx 1 MB). They will stay active there indefinitely,
as long as they get clicked at least one time in a one-year period.

Still waiting...

Oh, and 200 KB each? Why so big? Personally, pixel-wise I think 400X600
is an optimum size for the forum, and many monitors out there are running
800 X 600 screen resolution (or even less) so that size will fill the browser window nicely.
So for a pic @ 400 X 600, it really shouldn't need to be much over 70 KB or so.
In my Squamton series, most of those shots were 60 KB or less and they looked alright.
Some were as small as 22 KB! And yes, at least half of us are on dial-up, and some of us
are on really slow dial-up. I just did a speed test at speakeasy.net, and I got
24 kbps down and 28 kbps up. That's about as slow as it gets!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
OK, I get the link problem. I typed the thing out on Word Perfect, and its quotation marks copy and paste into the forum differently than the ones on the keyboard. I think if I fix those, the links work.

Stand by.

I don't even frickin' watch hockey. I know, I know, disgraceful for a Hoser.

And get this - I'm drinking California chardonnay, it's not even BEER for cryin' out loud! What's my problem????

Sorry, Hardmann, I ain't resizing all the photos a second time. I'm sticking with 700 pixels width. I can send you the text and you could HTML-ize it if you like.....


Damn, I should have asked you first, then. I had NO IDEA so many were on slow dialup. I thought most of us were in the New Millennium. Sorry.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 7, 2005 - 09:50pm PT
700 is probably ok ––  those with lower screen resolutions might have to scroll.
However, I think the bigger issue is the file size; you might want to compress them a bit more...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
OK, I think I get it. See page 2.

I think what I'll do is upload all these images to the Image Shack, and then fix them in Word Perfect, then redo everything.

Thanks for your help!

It looks pretty awesome at 700 pixels wide! Have a quick look, Dave, before I upload too many more.....
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 7, 2005 - 10:13pm PT
The pixel size looks good, but then I'm running 1600 X 1200 resolution on a 20",
so nothing is too big. However, I can see 2 images downloading are over 200 KB each;
I really don't know long people will wait to have a bunch of images of that file size downloading...

I would compress them smaller –– or post less pictures in each section.
Add up the total KB for each section, and you might be dealing with several MB!
On mine, I took great pains to make the totals 1.2 MB and 1.4 MB, respectively.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2005 - 10:18pm PT
OK, I am unprepared to resize the photos. I spent too much time photoshopping them to get the exposures perfect, and then resizing them. It is simply too much work to redo, at least this time. Next time I do a photo essay, I will consider doing this.

I am now uploading onto the Image Shack, so thanks for the tip.

How about I make it 5 images per page, and make it 1 + 10 pages then? Would that be better? Please advise asap. I'd rather do more links. Honest, dude, it took me frickin' HOURS to doctor the images.

I'm on the learning curve, but I'm a fast learner. Look how fast I'm fixing what appeared to be an hour ago insurmountable problems.

I'd like to tell you your photo essays from Squamish were an inspiration, so I will. However it is untrue. I have been working on this thing for several weeks now....

[but I *did* love your photos....]
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 7, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
(check your e-mail re: above post)

Pete wrote:

And get this - I'm drinking California chardonnay, it's not even BEER for cryin' out loud! What's my problem????


I hate to say this, but your beer up there seriously sucks.

Seriously.

And we only get to bring in a 12-pack of the good stuff across the border?

WTF?
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Sep 7, 2005 - 10:30pm PT
OK, like um, er, ermm, eh?

OK, like, blah, blah, blah…

OK, eh? …blah, blah, blah…

OK, like dude, are you in Fresno yet, or what, like, eh?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 7, 2005 - 10:36pm PT
LOL. good one. Guilty as charged...

Let's quickly get back to the fascinating political stuff, eh?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2005 - 11:01pm PT
This thread is soooooooo getting nuked soon.

Frig! I forgot I owe you the $ for the heads, mate. I can mail money order, or bring to you. Will be in Fresno Monday, Valley Monday night or Tuesday morning latest. Lemme know what you prefer, eh?

Sorry for the delay - got buggered up with my caving trip to Kentucky.

You can always tell a Merrican trying to act like a Hoser, because they say "eh" too loudly, eh?

And our beer is good, it's just WAY too expensive! About double what yous guys pay down there, for the most part.
Holdplease2

Trad climber
All over
Sep 8, 2005 - 01:20am PT
Pete! Great photos and story... Thank you for all the hard work on this. Got me totally psyched for the season! Glad you guys had a safe fun trip!

-Kate.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 01:24am PT
Thanks, Kate. This is proving to be an all-nighter just posting it, and that's after spending like a week writing the thing. Glad it gets you psyched - we can all use a little more of that, eh?

I still haven't met you face to face yet, so look me up if you're around, eh?

Cheers,

Pete
maculated

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 01:47am PT
Pete,

You seriously need to just get a frickin' website. Look, here's a cheap host: http://www.shieldhost.com/regular/budget.html?arg2=google&arg3=cheap+web+hosting
maculated

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 01:47am PT
You seriously need to just get a frickin' website. Look, here's a cheap host: http://www.shieldhost.com/regular/budget.html?arg2=google&arg3=cheap+web+hosting
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 02:01am PT
I *had* a website, Kristin - I don't know what happened!

Theo?!
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Sep 8, 2005 - 04:49am PT
Nice! Great photos. Good story. Post more. Better than magazine articles (well maybe Largo's are exception). *Almost* makes me wish I knew how to do that aid and big wall stuff. Fortunately too old now to learn. :)

If you're gonna hang out all morning, maybe you should take laptop up with you and post from the wall, eh? Only kidding.

Super posting style - bye bye to the non-climbing threads. ST doesn't need to change the format. Just more PTPP style TRs.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Sep 8, 2005 - 05:42am PT
Nice!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 06:25am PT
Thanks for the encouragement, guys and dolls. It's great to hear. I was up til nearly 5 a.m. getting it working on the forum here, and that was with all the text already written! It took me that long to get all the links working, and to re-upload the photos after I discovered that they all seem to have disappeared from the webspace I had.

I actually did get an offer a couple years ago from a guy who worked with Verizon to set me up with wireless internet service directly from the wall, but he had to renege when he discovered Verizon wasn't yet in Yosemite.

If anyone could help do that, I'd be happy to post live reports from my upcoming solo. I guess I'd need some sort of laptop battery or solar-powered charger setup.....
David

Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 06:32am PT
Thanks for taking the time to post that TR. Good stuff!

I agree with Mac though. I think you'd enjoy having your own site.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 06:39am PT
Thanks, David.

I actually do or did have my own website, as set up by Theo = Ahwahnee Bartender. It has a little forum that I had just begun working. I was in the very slow process of taking my posts from RC.com, rewriting them, and resubmitting them over there, along with photos spliced in as you see on this photo essay. Mike! Clelland had also drawn some really swell custom drawings which I had uploaded.

But the thing is, it's hugely time consuming. I wasn't about to open the website until I had the stuff in it working well. I'm trying to provide a high quality product, and I simply didn't have the time to work it. I had hoped to get busy at it during the winter, and still plan to, I'm just not sure what happened to it. It seems to have died in only the last few days, and I haven't heard from Theo yet to know why. He was legitimately wondering if I really planned to work it or not - especially since he had paid for it! - and last I heard we were going to keep it alive til I could get to do some serious work on it.

Theo, if you're out there in www-land somewhere, lemme know, eh? I *do* apologize to you, and also to Mike!, for not giving it the attention it deserves. But what little is there so far is pretty damn good.
PC LoadLetter What the...

Trad climber
Raleigh, NC
Sep 8, 2005 - 06:49am PT
Man, what a great TR. Thanks for taking the time to post something so rich and well done. Great photos as well!!

Shane
eddie7

Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 8, 2005 - 07:55am PT
Hey Pete.
That TR is the bomb, dude!
Nice work, eh?
cheers hoser.

Blaine P.
WBraun

climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 07:59am PT
Ok Pete

I looked at the whole thing and it's a lot of bivy shots with a lot of crap that you guys had to haul up there. My back hurts just thinking of hauling all that stuff, whew!

That rurp pitch way up high I thought was the best pitch on the climb. I did it with Dale Bard and we had a bagel for breakfast and a bagel for diner. I was starving! Dale doesn't eat on walls he just climbs and he bought all the food for the climb with some other guy who bailed on him. He pleaded with me to do the route after his partner bailed and told me they had a ton of food.

Yea right a ton of food!

Good job on your epic Trip report .... maybe go lighter on the bivy shots?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 08:09am PT
Ha! Interesting perspective, Werner - that of the Starving Man. One hopes that in Dale's Journey from YB to OB he has learned that bringing food on a wall is actually OK, and really doesn't slow you down all that much.

Your other perspective is quite amusing, and rings true with me. Hell, yeah - there really are a lot of bivi shots, aren't there? This is because I tend to think of my ascents more as vertical camping trips than as rock climbs. Funny, eh?

But you're quite right, a few more climbing shots would be in order. Maybe I'll check through what I have, and see what I can find. It's the old story, though - you're busy climbing, and it's harder to take pictures. I did more of the leading than Tom, although he did his share, and since you're looking through my camera lens and not his, that's why there aren't as many climbing shots as I might have liked. And you're right, the RURP pitch is superb!

Note: One man's crap is another man's beer.
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:13am PT
it's all good. except you need to climb with a girl. that way, all the suntanning pics will be of HER.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 08:14am PT
Now there is a damn fine idea if ever I have heard of one. Taking pictures of Tom's pasty white flesh is only slightly less revolting than taking the same of myself.
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:17am PT
"I hate to say this, but your beer up there seriously sucks."

"Note: One man's crap is another man's beer."

"I see," said the blind man.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 08:22am PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!

Nobody in the Pacific time zone could have come up with such a good one so early in the morning!
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:23am PT
Nice Pete... thanks for going to all the trouble. I enjoyed the pics and the story...
Tom
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 08:26am PT
Hey Tommy,

Thanks very much. Looking forward to seeing you next week, or whenever you're there. Apologies for not getting any of your usually superb pics in the photo essay, but I think the slides I got from you for Tribal Rite were taken when we were in kind of boring positions on the wall. I didn't see you down in the Meadows a lot when we were up there, so my guess is you weren't there for very many days.

However the photos you took of me on my solo of Eagle's Way were BRILLIANT, mate! Keep on clickin', eh? And watch for my Crab-O-Ledge on BUBS with any luck.
climber666madguy

Boulder climber
boulder (bro fest) co
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:42am PT
nice photos pete!

but...........aren't fire illegal up there? you are not doing a service by posting illegal climbing camping and fires at the base of El Cap.

anyway, nice job on the route.
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 09:22am PT
that fire was not at the base of el cap .. it was on a ledge some hundreds of feet of the deck ..

.. great photos .. great tr pete
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Sep 8, 2005 - 09:36am PT
i'd think it's an illegal fire in the wilderness, no mater how you slice it, and so is the fire on top if i am not mistaken (although these are assumptions, i could be wrong).

[edit]
ok, per ricardo's post below, i AM wrong, my mistake.
i'll leave the posts for posterity.
[/edit]



that's great that people climb el cap and it's great when people climb el cap and post pictures for others to enjoy, but it's anything but great when climbers in yosemite don't take their impacts seriously.


individual environmental impacts are relatively simple to asses. some well intentioned people (and some climbers) ask themselves the flawed question, "what are the impacts associated with my actions". the proper question would be, "what are the impacts if everyone who uses the park behaves like this?".

obviously if everyone who climbed el cap (or for that matter- every route in yosemite) decided to have a fire on the bottom and at the top, we would create serious access issues. perhaps more importantly, we wouldn't deserve the access.


[edit]
others might not agree w/ me, but i think when you post a bunch of climbing shots where aspiring climbers will see them and get the idea that it's ok for everyone to have fires in yosemite where and whenever they want to, you are promoting bad behavior. i personally wish they would outlaw all campfires in the valley, as the air quality gets pretty nasty on some crowded weekends.
[/edit]


[edit]
apparently it's actually alright to do that.
i am surprised.
[/edit]
Blight

Social climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 09:46am PT
Wow!

I'm amazed at the lengths some folks will go to to bash you, pete. "Illegal fires?" Wow, that's really scraping the barrel for a way to bring the man down.

Thanks very much for the fabulous TR pete, and especially for the breathtaking pics.

Climb on and please ignore the whining self-righteous little maggots.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 09:56am PT
Hey, good job Pete.... Nice work.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Sep 8, 2005 - 09:56am PT
matt. read the TR and you'd realize it's not a camp fire on the bottom, nor the TOP. lay lady lay ledge is 700'. and after a winter of run-off, pete writes that the ledge is strewn w/ debris. including fire wood.

now yea maybe pete shoulda kept the little secret under his hat, but ... .. for the handful of climbers who get there in the spring while there is still wood for the scavanging, what a hooot to have a campfire part way up your el cap route. 's why amongst the fixed pro and such sits a little fire ring + bbq grill

not that you'll ever see lay lady lay ledge Matt because you are a putz who only seems to talk out your ass. all i hear from you are diarrhea bubbles, so every time I hear a fart I think “oh, Matt has posted again on ST”
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:04am PT
fair enough, and i didn't read thte TR, just scanned the pics, but i still hold my own opinion about fires in yosemite in general.

kinda fecally fixated then, are ya?
creepy.
TradHog

Trad climber
Yellow Rose of Texas
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:08am PT
Great story and pictures PTPT! Pay no mind to that ASS Matt. He should stay in all his lame PINKO political threads anyway. The more he writes, the more obvious it becomes he is an ASS.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:09am PT
stating the facts

i liken Pete's little party on lay lady lay ledge to rolling through a yellow light b4 it turns red while driving.

And you are painfully sanctimonious. Reminds me of what the prissy kids who got their butt kicked in school act like as adults
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:13am PT
2 fires in one TR?
i was commenting on the heels of another post that asked if it was smart to post those photos of fires. climbing is growing in popularity every year and that will only continue. you can say i'm sanctimonious or fart bubbles or whatever you like, and i will respond that climbers need to pay more attention to their impacts. if no one ever complained, sh#t bags would still be the norm.

post under a real name and i might actually care for a second what your oinion is.
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:20am PT
please .. its ok to build fires in the wilderness as lons as you use an exisiting fire ring ..

thats the actual party line from the NPS ..

in both cases it appears that pete did that .. (in fact he even used an exisitng grill) ..

.. i've built fires on top of el cap (there is an existing fire ring at the summit of tangerine trip) ..

here is the actual text from the NPS wilderness guide



Limit your use of wood fires. Campfires are not allowed above 9600' due to wood scarcity and potential resource damage. Below 9600', they may be built in existing fire rings. Burn only dead and down wood. Please use stoves when ever possible



.. sounds like pete did just that .. so whats the problem matt?
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:24am PT
if it's not illegal then it's my bad, that was almost the 1st thing i wrote!


i am surprised they allow that.
426

Trad climber
obed
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:30am PT
Nice photo+essays PPTP, very enjoyable even for a bolt clipping schwaa like me.

Thx, and like others stated next time more action shots plz.
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:32am PT
Action/fester ratio doubtless accurate.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:45am PT
Nice pics, Pete. But, I must admit that I didn’t read any of the text.

Dude, like, did you put enough gear into the Carrot, or what? Holy sewing machines, Batman!
Damn, I bet that thing IS expando if you place a piece every 12 inches… What about top-stepping? Get a little more distance between the pieces and it won’t feel like it’s expando! Man, that must have taken all day to lead and clean with all of that gear… It also appears that you have the world’s largest collection of Screamers – no doubt.

Thanks for posting the pics!


Carrot photo by PTPP, borrowed from the other thread...
maculated

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 10:59am PT
Pete, I suggest you get a webpage. Seriously. You can do it for $20 a year.
Sewellymon

Social climber
.....in a single wide......
Sep 8, 2005 - 11:02am PT
Yes, and include a *members only* section ~~~wink~~~!
Mike.

climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 11:31am PT
Thanks for the shots, Pete. Looks like a great line.

Did you do the R side of EC Tower straight up to ND or traverse left through the urine syrup below the ledges? That latter was the grossest thing I've ever seen on EC.
quartziteflight

climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 12:59pm PT
Cool. Way to go @ssholes somebody puts a lot of effort into a TR and you b*tch..
Shack

Social climber
So. Cal.
Sep 8, 2005 - 02:09pm PT
Nice Job Pete!
I really like how you make fun of those dopey Canadians! ;)
but I didn't know you were supposed to put a screamer on EVERY piece!(must be the better way?).

Just kiddin'..."It's all good!"....

except for that foul clump of intestinal sculptures you call a "wall flower!" Nasty!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 02:09pm PT
Holy!

I was away helping my dad with our boat, so it's ready for fishing this fall, and I come back to all these positive responses. Thanks so much! I feel motivated to try this photo essay thing again sometime.

I don't have time right now, but I will indeed answer everyone's questions in turn. So please keep those cards and letters comin', as I promise to answer.

The reason I published the campfire pictures is because I thought they were cool, because we had a really swell time, and because I wanted your feedback. My understanding has always been what Ricardo quoted, and hence it's my understanding the fire is legit. However at this time I remain as for 3. above.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 03:11pm PT
Nice job, Pete! Really great write-up, nice photos... Good work! I have a couple of photos during schlepping and blast-off that you may be interested in addding....

Either way, keep it coming!

Cheers!
fareastclimber

climber
Hong Kong
Sep 8, 2005 - 06:04pm PT
Yargh, are the pics not working for anybody else? All the imageshack links appear to be broken... help...
kevin Fosburg

Sport climber
park city,ut
Sep 8, 2005 - 06:52pm PT
Good job Pete! I talked to you briefly last fall about Tribal Rite in the Valley (I advised you'd be asking for someone to "pass the copperheads"). It's great you sent it and posted these boss photos. I remember when Jeff Hornibrook and I were getting ready to do that route Werner of local fame said we should do a "real el cap route" like Son of Heart. In retrospect he was right. Again, good effort.
WBraun

climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 07:14pm PT
He he he now Kevin

Now who's talking of local fame you and Jeff were right up there as the best in the buisness.
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Sep 8, 2005 - 07:18pm PT
Excellent phots, Pete. I skipped through some of the blather, but I've gotta admit it wasn't too bad for a PTPP post. Not nearly as much emphatic emphasis on every other phrase -- it's much easier to follow and less verbose.

I think I'll need to add Tribal to my list of routes I'd like to climb on the Cap'n some day. The location, length, and difficulty of the climb are very appealing. I'll have to partner up with someone who likes the wide stuff, though. Yikes.

Ed
WBraun

climber
Sep 8, 2005 - 07:40pm PT
Ok Ed you can just go up the nose and start off the top of the boot and skip the entire wide.

Now why is this route called “Tribal Rite?”

Because those guys were going to drill a huge blank section for a complete original start requiring a lot of bolts and/or rivet ladders.

The local climbers gave them the heavy vibes not to do all that drilling and they gave in to those vibes not to do their original start idea. Thus it was the “Tribal Rite” that influenced their ultimate decision.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:17pm PT
Pete, thanks for posting the TR. It was great and everything seemed to work fine. You should definately get your own site going with such a wealth of info.
tokyo bill

Social climber
tokyo
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:47pm PT
If positive feedback will lead to more TRs like that one - count me in. Excellent!
kevin Fosburg

Sport climber
park city,ut
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:48pm PT
We went off boot flake. I thought that was where the route started.
Holdplease2

Trad climber
All over
Sep 8, 2005 - 08:56pm PT
Thank you, Werner. We may have found another myth, then, being propogated by SuperTopo...the guide says something about how they found this great line up the captain after everyone thought it was climbed out...so the route must have been their "tribal rite"...

When are you coming back to the valley, Ed? I think you should ditch Zodiac and go for something else on the Captain this time. And have a longer time frame for, er, Pete's sake. ;)

Pete, thanks again for posting this, I've read it twice. And even tho your previous style never bothered me, this one is improved...less font trickery, less wordy, just fun and real. Nice Work!

-Kate.
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 8, 2005 - 11:39pm PT
.. hehe .. for sure .. kate is right ..

one surefire way to fail on el cap is to put a schedule on it .. (unless you are way hard like ammon, or hans, et al) ..

.. slow folks who want to solo el cap can get it done by doing 2 pitches a day... this fall i'm taking 2 weeks from work, but i've told my boss that if i dont get back in time, its because i'm stuck 2000' off the deck on el cap..

.. ed .. you could do Tangerine .. i thought it was easier than zodiac. (way less heads or small cracks)

7 days solo is pretty cush schedule .. could be done faster w/out crowds.
macgyver

Social climber
Oregon, but now in Europe
Sep 9, 2005 - 03:21am PT
Great Trip Report! It is nice to have PTPP take the time and effort to format and present his works. I agree that the style is improved (a touch less narcissistic) and I like the photos so much that I have visited it twice.

Now if we can only get Kate (Holdplease2) to post some good trip reports with lots of photos of her kicking butt...yet she seems to solo so who is going to hold the camera.... volunteers?
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Sep 9, 2005 - 03:28am PT
Pete - Maybe you should "bump" the ten threads (in reverse order). Keeps the good stuff on the first page. ;)
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 06:06am PT
Hi y'all,

It's really encouraging and most importantly motivating to get so much positive feedback! It makes the effort feel worthwhile, and I'm so glad you are enjoying the show.

I'll try to answer everyone's questions in order:

Matt: I don't suppose you have heard of Napoleonic Complex, have you?

Blight, Tradhog, Quartz: Concur {yawn}

Rhodo-Router: Concur {burp}

Russ, 426, Bryan, Mike., Martha, Shack, Quartz, John Mac, Tokyo Bill, Macgyver, Tradslgood: You're welcome! As I wrote above, I am very encouraged by your kind words.

Kristin, Sewellymon [what does your user name mean??] John Mac: Dr. Piton dot com did exist, and I was just getting it started. Theo - Ahwahnee Bartender put a lot of effort into it, and I wasn't really keeping up my end of the deal. I had planned to give it a good working over during the winter to get it up and running. I need to get cracking because Mike! Clelland has been helping me as well with his superb custom cartoons. He is the best in the world at his craft, and I hate to squander the resource!

This being said, I hope Theo gets it back on line. If not, Randy has said he'll help me.

Accordingly, I am going to publish here in McTopo the one post I completed, which is the Better Way to clean an aid pitch. Just so you guys can get an idea of the type of information I plan to offer.

Matt, Ricardo, Donny: I was aware I was bending the rules a bit with the campfire. I wanted to know how everyone felt, and to try to find out if I actually broke any rules. I believe in minimizing the impact, too, and we kept the campfire quite small.

Mike.: I came up to El Cap Towers from the right, so no syrup. I'll confess the unprotectable 5.7 ramp had me a bit gripped.

Randy: Yes, send me the photos!

Far East: Grab two beers and call your Wall Doctor in the morning

Kevin: Thanks. Tribal Rite is hugely superior to Son Of Heart in my opinion. SOH is just OK - it's a stunning natural line, for sure, but it is quite dirty and uninspiring, the hauling sucks, and I hate chimneys. I do not recommend SOH. The headwall is brilliant, but you can reach it by the highly recommended Sunkist.

Ed: I would happily edit my posts at RC.com to take out the annoying fonts, if someone would give me the opportunity. They need cleaning up and other technical changes as well.

Werner and Kate: Yup, the story I believed was the one in the McTopo guide. Always cool to hear [someone's version of what they believe to be] the real deal.

Bryan: It is said that men with extraordinarily long penises* sometimes have a problem with depth perception, and that in some situations climbing gear appears to be closer together in the photo than it really is, due to a parallax phenomenon known as foreshortening. Yes, Yates Screamers and Scream Aids rock, and I can't imagine climbing a wall without a whole bunch of them.

Trads: I thought the annoyingly loud UPPER CASE LETTERS were more than enough to catch everyone's eye. This post is remaining near the top of the forum, and I encourage everyone to keep it there by replying if they enjoyed the photo essay.

* - sometimes this same thing happens when the bollocks of the lead climber have shrivelled, and he feels the need to leave a lot of protection in place

Watch for me next week in The Ditch, and thanks again!

Pete
Calvinclimber

Big Wall climber
Bend, OR
Sep 9, 2005 - 07:24am PT
Pete,

Enjoyed the photos. Seeing climbing on El Cap is always motivating. Thanks for taking the time to post them.

Calvin
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Sep 9, 2005 - 08:20am PT
Cool report pete!! Thanks for the perseverance with the report, it is appreciated. One thing I have never understood about your climbing style, is why all the crap? I think all will agree that hauling is the worst part about wall climbing. I am all about hauling only the necessities. Beer is the only thing in my haul bag that can be construde as unnecessary. Uh, I take that back, I only pack the necessities. Thanks Pete!
Sewellymon

Social climber
.....in a single wide......
Sep 9, 2005 - 09:10am PT
pttp- -- -- U ASK "Sewellymon [what does your user name mean??
just a nickname, bro. .. ..last name is Sewell, so some of my buds starting calling me Sewellymon the Magnificant (he's the Muslim King whose army killed 300,000 crusaders back in the day).
I prefered Sewellymon to whatever tag FISH put on me (Cereal Bowl-- -a double moniker... a bad hair cut I wore once, plus the pronounced concavity in my chest .. "you could eat cereal out of it...."

besides, it sounds sort of like a rastafarian's name. so for a white bread dude, it's soulful

p.s. I once went climbing here in the SE w/ one of your protogees..... Yvonne..... grrrrrrr.. .... tho I would not fess 'up that I knew you... ... . . i also see your Zod partner Neil/ lovesgasoline every time i visit Rat Rock boulders in Manhatten. He's a great guy!!!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 9, 2005 - 01:01pm PT
Last night I read the whole report and thought it was a very sweet TR. Got me jonsin for the big stone big time. Definately highlights the benfits of "pleasure wallin."

I watched Tom leading that A2 corner up high for a few hours from the meadow...and were were kinda joking about not being able to tell if he had moved at all during the whole time. I figured it was Pete leading though...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 03:14pm PT
Tommy T - thanks! Most assuredly you get it.

Sewellymon - Geeez, ya should have told me it was you. How'z the MILF hunting these days?

Matt - Just because I spend a long time on the wall doesn't mean that when I'm leading, I move slowly. I merely spend a long time camping.

Blaine - geez, dude. Brain fart. Sorry. Thanks, and we'll do some craggin' this fall for sure! Thank your employer expense account for the sushi, eh?
Duke

Social climber
PSP
Sep 9, 2005 - 03:22pm PT
Pete, you will probably need an extra haul bag to jug your giant head up the next route after this thread.

RD

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 04:22pm PT
Uh, welcome to the forum, Randy.

And it really is OK to write nice stuff, this being your first day and all. No shortage of haul bags, however.

Question to the web pros - are some of these photos not working now? How reliable is this image shack place, anyway? Should I reload, or what's the scoop?
Duke

Social climber
PSP
Sep 9, 2005 - 04:37pm PT
In terms of posting nice stuff, my post was safely in the upper quartile for this forum.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2005 - 04:40pm PT
I'm aiming for the upper decile.

Take the high road, dude. Look to the summit.
eddie7

Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 9, 2005 - 05:10pm PT
No worries Pete.
That was a great meal.
We'll swill some lager when you get back from the ditch.

cheers,
Blaine P.
johngo

Trad climber
the beautiful Pacific NW
Sep 10, 2005 - 09:11am PT
Hi Pete,

I'll add my voice to the chorus of very appreciative readers. (Wowzer, when you get Lambone actually sending you a compliment you know you have done well =^) I like how you managed to sneak in a few well placed aid lessons as well. It's clear you spent a LOT of time on this, and any more you ever care to write will be happily read by me!

Thanks for the great post,
johnGo
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Sep 10, 2005 - 09:17am PT
Pete, I'd just like to thank you for posting something that's about actual rock climbing.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Sep 10, 2005 - 02:36pm PT
Hey pete, does that carrot thing go free? If so, at what grade?
David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
Sep 10, 2005 - 02:57pm PT
It was a great TR and we all got our jollies reading about climbing, not political drivel, but why hasn't anyone criticised at least a few things? Pete, you say to take the "high road", but how about recognizing a few errors? For instance, your partner not tying in his bad weather gear and his sleeping bag, then losing them? How about wandering around on a ledge untied? Dill's essay documents that is how several experienced climbers bit the dust. How about having such a long tie-in that when the pigs knock you off, you fall sideways, what was it, 60 feet, and the only reason you did not get hurt was that you were lucky there were no ledges, etc.

Pete, the pix were great, I enjoyed reading it, but if you want to teach The Better Way, how about recognizing a few errors? It is human to err, and all pencils have an eraser for a reason. But failing to learn from an error guarantees you will do it again. And up there, errors kill people.
WBraun

climber
Sep 10, 2005 - 06:25pm PT
Just remember David that Charlie Porter dropped his haul bag with his bivy gear from Lay lady ledge also. He went on to finish the route (FA New Dawn) without it, even though it’s only 6 pitches up and in fall with very cool weather.

We are forced to make mistakes, we must make mistakes, not that we can ever avoid them all no matter how cautious we are.

Otherwise we would be the controllers but instead we are being controlled.

Shack

Social climber
So. Cal.
Sep 10, 2005 - 10:14pm PT
Why do you think Pete takes so much extra crap with him?...
cuz he knows he's gonna drop some of it!
I think Pete would agree that NOT dropping stuff IS the better way....
I'ts just doesn't always work out that way.
Holdplease2

Trad climber
All over
Sep 10, 2005 - 10:25pm PT
David:

Good point. However, I think that Pete probably recognizes these errors, and recognizes that everyone reading this report will recognize them as errors.

If Pete was not owning up to his errors, he would not have included this information in the TR at all...I would have been tempted not too, myself.

After all, this trip report is just that, a report on a trip. Not a text book on "how too" that has to have every single lesson explained in full.

I understand your perspective, of course, but I think if you look at it this way, Pete acknowledged plenty.

-Kate.

(I am mostly saying this because I think he is on the road right now to Yos and won't be able to reply right away, not that its my place to speak for him)
Scrunch

Trad climber
Provo, Ut
Sep 11, 2005 - 01:21am PT
Thanks for the story, Pete, and the pictures. I never did like stories without them...
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 11, 2005 - 02:37am PT
lay lady ledge looks huge -- i think unroping there is normal ..

we unroped on heart ledges -- and on the bivy ledge right below (and to the left of the heart ledge) .. felt pretty safe to me -- just dont get too close to the edge
poop_tube

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Sep 11, 2005 - 02:59am PT
sweeeeeeet
Sally OConnor

Social climber
Canada
Sep 11, 2005 - 03:54am PT
Great TR, Pete. Witty.
Will be in Yos early Oct.
May tempt you to sing with a Merrican beer.
Shack

Social climber
So. Cal.
Sep 11, 2005 - 11:24am PT
Right Ricardo...
Pete's just free soloing the ledge.

I confess!!
I've unroped on Dinner Ledge.
Phew!
There, I feel like a weight has been lifted from me.




Back to praising and or flaming Pete.
rather crawl

climber
Columbus,OH
Sep 11, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
The pictures were great and I enjoyed the report.

Not being a climber, I never imagined how much gear you have to haul up a climb. It certaintly doesn't entice me to climb. Along the lines of not being a climber, I can understand the climbers wanting more action shots, but it was informative to see your stove and "big wall camping shots."

So, I was just wondering, how's come your partner was always bundled up, but you're lying around in shorts?

Janice



yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Sep 11, 2005 - 04:32pm PT
Done! Whew.

I read a chapter every night, this was like the Moby Dick of TRs, except with slightly less information about whale foreskins.

Thanks, Pete. BTW, everyone, posting pics and TRs is not necessarily spray. Share it, peeps.
joebuzz

Trad climber
Oakhurst, Ca.
Sep 11, 2005 - 09:50pm PT
Excellent TR Pete! The story and pics were great. Look forward to hooking up again soon.
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
Denver
Sep 12, 2005 - 10:09am PT
Hey Pete! Good to see you out and about! Awesome TR as usual. Some day I'll make it out there to do some climbing with you!
David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
Sep 12, 2005 - 06:18pm PT
Werner,

OK, go ahead and tell me to lighten up, but I think that you are overstating it when you say that Pete has acknowledged his mistakes because he has written about them. Not quite. I realize that we all drop things, Charlie Porter and myself included, but to have your foul weather gear (or any other gear which may be necessary for your survival) lying around without being clipped in is just stupid. That is the mistake, not dropping it. Dropping something is one thing, deliberately not clipping in vital gear is stupid. Gravity always sneaks around when you least expect it, and there it goes.

Again, I think it is a mistake in judgement to wander around any ledge without being tied in. Make your umbilical cord as long as you like, but tie in. I know it is a nuisance, but gravity will sneak around when you least expect it. As I observed in my earlier post, John Dill's essay on the YOSAR site documents how good climbers have accidentally fallen off ledges while deliberately unroped.

I realize that we all get to make our own choices and we all have our own style of climbing, our own threshold for safety, etc, and these freedoms are the things that we all love about climbing, and I never want the Park Service to wade in with an opinion. Each to his own, and viva la difference. But not tying in is bad technique. All it takes is a simple stumble, or a jump to get out of the way of rockfall, and that is it.

I am not telling Pete to do it differently, I merely want to point out that these are risky techniques. Maybe "mistakes" is too strong, how about just "risky techniques."
Holdplease2

Trad climber
All over
Sep 12, 2005 - 06:50pm PT
David,

How about pointing out how BRILLIANT it was of Pete to carry a spare bivy sack AND spare warm weather gear in the event that something like this happened?

And how about if you are dumb enough to walk off of the edge of a 600 square foot ledge...DONT CLIMB THE FRICKING CAPTAIN!

How about it wasn't even PETE that dropped this stuff, but his PARTNER? How about that it is not his right or place to pass judgement on that, either.

-Kate.

David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
Sep 12, 2005 - 06:58pm PT
OK Kate, Pete is brilliant and his partner made dufus mistakes. My point was just that if we are to learn about how to climb and be safe, we need to do more than just tell Pete we love the TR and pix (which is what I said in the first place).
Mike.

climber
Sep 12, 2005 - 07:40pm PT
I can understand wanting to climb in relative safety, but insinuating that a TR author is responsible for viewers' safety is misguided. Trip reports are for entertainment, not instruction.

And be careful with that big-assed leash as you walk around the ledge; you might knock off a rock with it and kill someone below.
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 16, 2005 - 08:15am PT
ayayay!... lucy !? -- what have you done? ...

.. umm ..

.. how about we try to remember that this is a trip report -- and leave it at that. .. its not a how-to ..
Howie

Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
Sep 16, 2005 - 08:43am PT
I think Pete might think twice about posting a photo essay in future.
Lighten up everyone.
H.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2005 - 08:23pm PT
Hey y'all,

Thanks for all the kind comments, and inspiration to make up another photo essay.

As for what I write, and how I write it, what can I say? Some people get it, and some people don't. Interestingly, there is a high positive correlation between those who do get it, and those whom I meet who actually climb walls. Perhaps in my next trip report, I should [for the benefit of those who emphatically do not get it] preface certain paragraphs with the following caveat:

THIS IS WHERE I MADE AN INCREDIBLY STUPID MISTAKE - WHICH I FREELY ADMIT *BECAUSE* I AM WRITING ABOUT IT.

{shrug}

Well, back to the walls!

Cheers,

Pete
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2005 - 04:32pm PT
Are you guys up for another one of these, then?

[Note: This time, I climbed with a hottie as you suggested....]
Shack

Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
Dec 1, 2005 - 04:38pm PT
I'm up for more...but,

"This time, I climbed with a hottie as you suggested"

I'm a little skeptical....
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 1, 2005 - 04:40pm PT
send it

but please adhere to the 3-1 rule. 3 pics of her for every one of you
rja

Trad climber
somewhere between LA and Baja
Dec 1, 2005 - 04:46pm PT
F*#king Great TR and pictures. I have no comment on the computer-geek, html, image-size, or anything else. It looked like you had a great time and traveled in comfort. Thanks for taking the time and energy to post such a comprehensive report. Congratulations!!!
tokyo bill

Social climber
tokyo
Dec 1, 2005 - 05:27pm PT
Responding to Pete's question, I'm definitely up for another trip report like this one!

Pete: Looking at this thread so far, I'd say you'll have an abundance of appreciative readers, if you're willing to put in the effort.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Dec 2, 2005 - 11:23am PT
Nice photos (although way too many of HD in clouds.) I have but one question... was there any gear you guys didn't take?
Shack

Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
Dec 2, 2005 - 11:30am PT
C'mon Pete! Stop teasing! Post up!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2005 - 01:31pm PT
"I have but one question... was there any gear you guys didn't take?"

I sincerly doubt it, and desperately hope not. You can click here to get read [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?id=49"]Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall Checklist.[/url] If you climb big walls [or aspire to] and have never seen this checklist, it is worth a click. People come up to me in Yosemite all the time and tell me that they use it. I think you'll find it comprehensive and hopefully a bit entertaining. It's well cross-referenced with links to various posts and stuff. In fact, beneath I've hotlinked a photo to some of the stuff we took up the wall with us.

"I'm up for more...but," "This time, I climbed with a hottie as you suggested" "I'm a little skeptical...."

You're right, she might not be a hottie. Then again, she might.



What! Me tease?
climberweenie

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Dec 2, 2005 - 04:07pm PT
I don't recognize that brand of blow-up doll... did you add the wig?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2005 - 04:33pm PT
Nah, the hair's real.

You can fill her with helium to lead the scary pitches!
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 2, 2005 - 04:41pm PT
"Thats a MAN baby ... "

good pic dude
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2005 - 08:06am PT
Below is a photo of our bivi at Big Sur Ledge showing some of the stuff we brought. Most prominently displayed is the haul line knot protector which you see in the foreground. It's made from one of those automotive funnels you use for pouring transmission fluid. You need to use duct tape to reinforce the clip-in point at the bottom, and to wrap around the top as the plastic is a bit brittle. The gentle taper lets your pig slip easily around obstructions.



I'll be uploading more photos of our ascent of North America Wall and we'll put together another trip report similar to the Tribal Rite one.

Cheers,

Pete
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 3, 2005 - 08:33am PT
...remember the 3-1 rule.......

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2005 - 08:41am PT
No problem, Jeff. Until such time as she sends me any photos from her camera, you're stuck with such photos from mine....
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Dec 9, 2005 - 11:24am PT
Uh oh... Pete you're wicked, wicked, wicked.

:)
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Dec 9, 2005 - 03:54pm PT
Well, she certainly is a step up from Tom (in the beauty dept.). Looks like she could crack walnuts with that ass -- wow.

Ed
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2005 - 08:53pm PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! [Diabolical Dr. Evil laughter]

You'd best watch your ass with comments like that, Ed, or she'll crack your bald head between her cheeks.
Holdplease2

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Dec 9, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
Ed! A little respect. Cybelle has led pitches that I'm still too chicken to climb. That, and your nuts on a wall ("wallnuts" - hehe) won't have a chance of getting anywhere near that ass, unless you are jugging her lines.

;)

-Kate.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Dec 9, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
solid trip report, I'd seen it before, but finally checked the whole thing.

freaky deeky on them expandos. I'za skeered of dem.
elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Dec 10, 2005 - 05:05am PT
Aid is aid.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Dec 10, 2005 - 08:09am PT
Sweet, I look forward to the latest installment!

GO
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2005 - 06:25pm PT
[truly a fine ass, though....]

Doh!
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Dec 12, 2005 - 07:46am PT
Respect?! My comment is boardering on worship! Definitely no insult intended, and I have no doubt she could climb circles around me and pummel me into oblivion in the Meadow.

Cybelle -- sorry if the comment was offensive. I figured any woman who can tolerate doing a wall with Pete is probably immune to a drooling idiot like me.

Ed
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Dec 12, 2005 - 07:50am PT
The gentle taper lets your pig slip easily around obstructions.

Pete, how could you call that lovely lady your pig?
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Dec 14, 2005 - 05:08pm PT
Not rushin' the essay any more than the climbs, eh? Well I guess good writing takes time.
pc

climber
Eastside
Dec 14, 2005 - 05:14pm PT
"The gentle taper lets your pig slip easily around obstructions."

Please. Let's keep this forum at least R rated. Easy on the XXX stuff...
JayMark

Trad climber
Oxnard, CA
Dec 14, 2005 - 06:38pm PT
Nice... I really like the photo essay thing. Say, what shoes are you wearing? Are those La Sportiva SUPERDRAGO?
mingleefu

climber
Champaign, IL --> Denver, CO
Dec 14, 2005 - 08:48pm PT
hey Pete, nice report- great ascent. If you resized all those images one at a time, I feel bad for you. next time use XNview (download for free at XNview.com). It'll automatically resize many images in one fell swoop. Easy to use.
macgyver

Social climber
Oregon, but now in Europe
Dec 15, 2005 - 08:55am PT
Cybelle - Pete's partner - totally rocks. I chatted with her for 15 minutes in the mountain shop and at Leaning Tower and she is one spunky and talkative girl. In a short time I could see her passion pretty clearly. And she has that whole cute funky thing going on.

Definately tougher than I am...and she has WAY better hair than I have.
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Dec 15, 2005 - 02:39pm PT
Aaargh! I am not worthy of all this credit despite Kate's kind fabrications about fearsome pitches ... and I never said I was offended. That was Kate again, being my winsome bodyguard. And, yes, climbing with Pete required prior innoculation. And, just for the record, no we weren't, well, you know. And... he's probably waiting on my pics to arrive in the mail before he makes the photo essay. Que mas? Hey I'm excited I'm gonna be in Alpinist mag next month. Woo hoo.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2005 - 02:42pm PT
We weren't....?

Um, what about ....?

And then there was ....?

And then there was the time ....
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2005 - 02:45pm PT
Oh, sorry. I miscounted. Forget the last one.
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Dec 15, 2005 - 03:20pm PT
Oh shut up!

:)
rockynat

Trad climber
Munich, Germany
Dec 21, 2005 - 01:49am PT
hi pete ....

nice pics: portaledge, portaledge ...
woulde like to see more of the climbing itself

by the way: do you like a dvd (movie) of Mescalito 2005 ?
send your private email to: h.wurzer@web.de

rocknat
Speleoguy

Big Wall climber
Tucson, AZ
Mar 2, 2006 - 11:14am PT
Wow, that looked pretty cool and the chick was alright too!!

Good Job Dr. P!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2006 - 07:38am PT
I bumped this post in case some of you guys haven't seen it, and because I'm arriving in Yosemite next week - woo-hooo!

I'm also putting together a similar post for a fishing website of my recent fishing trip with my dad to Algonquin Park, and I wanted to copy the format.
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
May 13, 2006 - 07:49am PT
Cool, link us to the "fission" site when it's rollin. Seems like quite a few people on this board 'angle.'
ZAllen

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 13, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
Great TR. Say, did you guys drink any coffee when you were up there?

Looking forward to the Algonquin Park pics. I took a trip up there with my Dad about 12 years ago. Awesome.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
Coffee? COFFEE?! Hell, yeah, we drank coffee up there on the wall. Mornings don't even begin after 10 am and at least one pot of coffee from Dr. Piton's Shagadelic Big Wall Coffee Press. Trader Joe's dark roast is The ShIt!

Cool! Thanks for your interest in the fishing, too. It's an enormous amount of work making these photo essays, and I'm busy Photoshopping and resizing and uploading and writing. I'll be sure to post the link as soon as it's completed.

Here's a shot from a couple years ago - my dad and our Family Record 4-1/4 pound native [not stocked] speckled [brook] trout. This is a real trophy, for sure!



To catch this fish, we paddled for three days, and portaged five miles in each direction! How sick is that, eh?
Blakeb

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
May 13, 2006 - 07:07pm PT
Hey pete, i heard from kate that you had a detailed topo of sunkist or at least notes that were worth looking at and i was wondering if it is possible to get a copy of this from you. Great TR by the way, keep making them.
cheers,
blake
doc bs

Social climber
Northwest
May 15, 2006 - 10:15am PT
This is awesome - thanks - sending link to my friends.
Alisa
ZAllen

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 15, 2006 - 01:27pm PT
Wow! That is a beautiful fish. I honestly didn't know that brookies got that big.

Just kidding about the coffee... I noticed that there were more shots of you guys drinking coffee than climbing. I can certainly identify as a dedicated caffeine addict myself.
Ouch!

climber
May 15, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
Griff

Social climber
Felton, PA
May 15, 2006 - 08:55pm PT
Do you wear your Russian aiders when you fish?

What are your favorite flies for Tribal Rite?
mack

Trad climber
vermont
Nov 27, 2006 - 10:49am PT
Great trip report!!! And WOW what a gorgeous fish
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Dec 10, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
Great TR ...

When are you going to write up the report for the route you did with "bat girl".

Cheers

john
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Dec 10, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
great!
ha...
the camping scene on the ledge totally made my day,
really!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (the edge of Treason)
Sep 7, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
But it's frikkin' cool, eh?


Awesome route, that.....
dogtown

climber
Where I once was,I think?
Sep 7, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
Very cool TR Pete, Have you heard from Mark or Richard as of late? I have not.

BD
Scout 2

Trad climber
Placerville
Sep 8, 2008 - 01:15am PT
Great pete
you actually started a climbing thread...
Cant remember the last time a real thread blew up this fast!
Strong work!
And great TR, but if I wasnt at work It would take a week to see it.

see ya soon I'll be at the bridge whith coffee.
Doug
Scout 2

Trad climber
Placerville
Sep 8, 2008 - 01:20am PT
Ouch thats Great whats the going rate for wee crab?
I know a few of the guys that film /produce that series...
have to sent him a copy of that.
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Sep 8, 2008 - 08:47am PT
suh-weet!
FullMonty

Trad climber
Originally from IN - Now living in Leadville, CO
Sep 8, 2008 - 09:25am PT
Pete, that was possibly the best TR I have read. You really should do some more so that people like me, who only get three weeks in the valley each year, have something to rub out to.
thanks
hungry man

Trad climber
around
Sep 8, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
HAHAHAHA, Ouch! that's the best one ever.

Thanks, Pete. I loved the writing and the rad PICS!

totally Kool
hungry man

Trad climber
around
Sep 8, 2008 - 09:04pm PT
Bitch




I mean Bump
BooYah

Social climber
Ruby Range
Jan 30, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
Very cool, though long, Mr. Piton.
Thank you for the adventure.
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 31, 2009 - 09:23am PT
Trader Joe's BUMP..
We have one here in Bellingham,
but the two-buck-chuck is now
three-buck-chuck, inflation,
eh??

Good post, man,
Thor

Great vivid detail!! Bummer
about loosing stuff off
Lay Lady Ledge!
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 31, 2009 - 09:44am PT
I own "Yosemite Climbers", it is the best climbing photo essay ever published and I have often wanted to get the players to sign their photos!


Thor
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 1, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
They might.... for a beer or so.

A veritiable bargain.
I never said that. ;-)
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Feb 2, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
Pete,

Good choice in swill. Some of the BITD So Cali's
knew my cousin Tom Smith. For the last 6 or 7 years,
he has been VP, Wine Growing for Gallo (which makes Barefoot).
He plays a big part of the end-result of the wine,
and he has a real knack for making some of the
world's best $5 bottle of wines. The entire
Barefoot line is stellar in that regard;
the Zin perhaps best of the best.

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 2, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
hey there sewellymon... say, i can't afford wine, so have to look for cheap wine... i, too, have liked the barefoot brand... and i can afford it...

now, i am backtracking, to see this neat post... the front was very interesting, way back at 2005, though, so i thought it best to backtrack, til i have more time....

then, i'll redo the front-trail, and all those neat and very interesting comments that lead to the essy, itself, i hope... :)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 2, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
hey there 'pass the pitons' pete...

say, still backtracking... think the year is 2006, where i am at...

say--just wanted to say:
great picture of your dad and the ol' fish!... determination, huh?... you both did great!


say, also saw the nice OUCH! artwork on a very unique 'catch'....


got to go... will backtrack soon, later tonight, i hope, and see the great photo essay...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
Thor,

You would be amazed how many people from that book frequent this joint. You can start by asking Double D to sign the back cover. [I hear he doesn't have quite so much hair these days]

Jeff! What a great big wall wine tip! I did knott know that Gallo makes Barefoot wines. While their cab is pretty good, I have to tell you, dude, that I was extremely disappointed with their shiraz, which is far from stellar and approaching BAD. I am curious why this is so, when compared to their quite decent cab. Maybe you can get me in touch with your cousin? I'll try their zin, though.

neebee - if you have access to Trader Joe's, their Black Mountain shiraz is probably my all-time favourite cheap wine. Give it a try and tell me what you think.





JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 4, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
BUMPIT
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 5, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
Tribal bump.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
Now I hope y'all have noticed that I have made significant inroads in my control-freakish tendencies, and no longer make posts with "rules" like this one!! [ref. the "who the hell are you" photo post]
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 5, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
Aye....Ya know, Pete, I've bivied at Lay Lady Ledge twice, but never with that kinda opulance.
Hats off, man.
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
Thanks for the info, Pass the Pitons, good to know those guys are still out there! Definitely feel the need to be free in a rock climbing forum! He probably missed his Prozac or something seriuos like that! Looks like "he" deleted his comments anyway!

Post the banter, Man!

Thor
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
Arghhh!

Why bring back bad memories of the the bad heads zipper fall I took up there? The whip was clean and smooth, but I think my lower back is still a bit on the fritz.

Then again, that was a great wall, and highly recommended.

You young-guns, make sure you redrill the haul anchor at the base of Texas Flake (further to the right, not like the last time, eh?) when you're up there. Thanks, in advance, from later parties. You'll know what I'm talking about when you get there.


A campfire halfway up El Cap is a beautiful thing, part human enterprise, and part, get rid of the smell of humans. If I had enough propane, I'd scorch every trade route spot I've had to smell: Texas Flake, Hollow Flake Ledge, the Alcove, Long Ledge and the last three pitches of the Shield.

I thank God that he's blessed me with the routes nobody else cares about, and therefore, were still pseudo-pristine.

A fifth-ascent is very different from a one-thousandth ascent.
Pate

Trad climber
Apr 3, 2010 - 11:55am PT
Good vibes for The Tribe.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
It's gettin' to bein' that time, isn't it? Will definitely try some of the Barefoot shiraz this spring!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Apr 4, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
Hey Pete,

I've never posted up on this report. I can't tell ya how many times I read it and looked at the pics before heading up on it. Your trip report was the inspiration I needed. An awesome report indeed!

Cheers,

Doug
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Apr 4, 2010 - 07:03pm PT
Ya gotta love Pete !!!! One of a kind and a true character who's type inhabits most every social circle. Thank you Pete, this place is better because of your presence.


Cracko
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Apr 4, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
Pete wrote,

"Jeff!....Barefoot wines.....extremely disappointed with their shiraz, which is far from stellar ....why this is so, when compared to their quite decent cab. Maybe you can get me in touch with your cousin? "

So a year later, I'll ask Cuz about the Shiraz and let you know what he sez....

p.s.- what big wall vacation route is on the agenda this Spring? Have you proclaimed, yet?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
Thanks, Cracko!

And Ottawa Doug made a very bitchin' solo of this route a few years ago. When are you coming back to climb another, Doug?

Jeff - it's gonna be Pacemaker with Mawk and and then something with J-P, possibly Albatross, although I might twist J-P's arm to do a crazy little linkup...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 4, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
I am so all over this route! I'll be on it in just a few days more than two months, I can hardly wait.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
Poor Mark. He's literally drooling to get up on the wall! Too funny! We're expecting a kick-ass report from ya, buddy!

And if you bail this time, you can't blame your partner! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 4, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
I am so friggen set up with gear, clothes and food that it's going to take something real serious for me to come down!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
^^^ TAKE NOTE! HOLD THIS BOY ACCOUNTABLE!!!!

If Mark Huge-Dong bails from his solo, we must never let him hear the end of it!! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! He'll have to make Hood River Coffee for us on the bridge every morning for a frickin' MONTH!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 4, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
Didn't your parents every tell you to respect your elders, Pete?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
Respect is EARNED.... Besides, what are you, like two months older than me??
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 4, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
You're a kid! I'm 54!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
I got carded for a beer last year in Yosemite. How about you?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 4, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
I haven't been carded in years.
Bl@ke

Trad climber
Victoria Australia
Apr 4, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
Sweet deal as trip report essay thing! good stuff. Getting real psyched.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 5, 2010 - 10:00am PT
It's seem like my "Digging a Hole Motivational Program" is working well, doesn't it?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 10:04am PT
Dude, you are so fukcking fukced if you bail... And I was serious about you making us coffee for a month!
charlie.elverson

Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
Apr 5, 2010 - 10:49am PT
great story. loved the pictures. for the hyperlinks, do regular html tags not work on this forum?

edit: guess not... what about...

move to Page 2 of the Tribal Rite photo essay

move the periods outside of [/url] tag. They're what's screwing the link up (I think).
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Apr 5, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
If you want to see a concise version of this tr, check out this link:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big_wall_and_aid_climbing/tr__tribal_rite_se_face_of_el_cap/106076716

It's a little easier to read that the sp version, but still captures all the pics, etc.


Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 13, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
Fixed! Sweet!

It's getting so close that I can't sleep at night! 11 days till I leave!
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
May 13, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
Thanks for the great TR Pete!

Walter Rosenthal was one of my best friends. He learned the tricks of the trade from the great Charlie Porter, and was kind enough to pass a few of them on to me. Walter soloed The Dihedral Wall and The Zodiac(early seventies). Also an early ascent of Mescalito, when it was still called "The End All Wall"!

R.I.P. Wally!
Jingy

Social climber
Nowhere
May 13, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
great thread idea pete...

cheers to ya
jgrigg

Trad climber
Kitchener, ON, Canada
Jan 27, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
b|tchin' trip report Dr Piton!! I'm a big fan of your "vertical camping" approach to big walls.

For those who don't know Piton, you might mistake this type of approach to climbing for laziness. But let me assure you, after spending three nights underground with Pete in Roppel and witnessing his meticulous nature at surveying and sketching ~700ft of new passage in what most climbers would consider wet, miserable conditions, I can testify to his hard working ethics...even if it is in the name of "fun".

You should definitely continue the photo essay saga with your other climbs.. its a great way for people like me to procrastinate the day away =)

Keep it up Pete!!

Cheers,

Jon
ag.Fox

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jul 17, 2013 - 09:57am PT
Bump -> more climbing content occupying ST!!!

Priceless:
Dr. Piton demonstrates the Better Way of completely and hopelessly clusterf*cking his bivi…
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 17, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Yes! Occupy SuperTopo with CLIMBING threads!
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