Fear no evil (5.9R); Lovers Leap obscurity TR

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Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Jun 29, 2010 - 11:49am PT

how about ham sandwich, a little west of fantasia?
will cotrel route, 10b, 1 pitch only then joins scimitar.

i havent done it but it looks nice.

426

climber

Buzzard Point, TN

Jun 29, 2010 - 02:14pm PT

From my poor memory, a fall off the Dancing Feet would leave you still abo=ove the dirt, but probably hurt. Aren't teh second and third pitches teh business? I remember brain doing "full friction" mode. ***Don't even look for holds, (there aren't any!) just maintain upward momentum....

Good tr, it's a classic. It was the second route I ever followed there...

Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber

Larkspur

Jun 29, 2010 - 06:10pm PT

Hey Ron... I agree with the Eiger like quality of winter climbing on the East Wall route. We did it during a winter storm in the mid-70's as "practice" for Alpine climbing in Europe. Never found anything that hard in our trip to the Alps, but the low angle last pitch of East Wall was absolutely desperate in big leather boots!

Trad

Trad climber

northern CA

Jul 1, 2010 - 08:23pm PT

About Between the Lines, caughtinside said:

i did the first pitch which was great. I would note that the pin that is before the chains is now gone. I protected it poorly with a bad green alien and a tiny RP. Don't fall!

Wow, really?! It was still there Memorial Day weekend and I was grateful to clip it. If someone fell on that thing and popped it I sure hope they'll post up. Must've been an "interesting" whipper!

In the interests of staying on topic, my Fear No Evil partner just sent some pictures so here's another one:

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Jul 1, 2010 - 10:09pm PT

Yea Ron. most aspiring alpinists in the area have stories of EWR in blizzard conditions....The Big Kahuna And I, ran into a newbee in the snowfilled parking lot around "96"...We told him of are intentions and since his pals hadn't arrived he agreed...(Poor Bastard). We had pretty good gear Gortex outer wear shcoler and pile, Blah,Blah ,Blah...
But once the climbing in the wet and snow covered dikes begun, it was back to the over sized Fierys and poly liners on the hands to scrap away the snow to find a hold or a descent placement. I had done the route 50+ times by then, but it was the hardest and most rewarding trip up the EWR. My fingers and toes stung and itched for 3 days after that. That was Mazeuad and Bonnatti style of climbing. It doesn't get any better, maybe a forced bivy?

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Jul 2, 2010 - 10:34am PT

on the winter climbing thing, sometime in the early 80s Don Garrett, Jon Bowlin and I tried to climb some crazy ice smear on one of those buttresses to the right of Dear John. Took me about two hours to lead the first pitch, a few pins behind this smear that was too thin to take screws. Finally got a decent three pin belay in a horizontal crack. Don went after the second pitch. He was up there about 30ft with nothing in when the sun came around the corner and the upper part of the smear started raining chunks on us. Don had a hell of a time getting a pin in to lower off while this smear was coming apart around him and Bowlin was standing there next to me in this semi-hanging belay screaming at Don to hurry up and all this ice coming down around us. I suppose those pins are still there. It was a cold day too but that California sun...wow. We tried to do the North Wall route one January but only got to the ledge at the base of the corner two pitches up. Throughly frozen by then so screw it and went to the bar. The Leap is a real different place in the winter, totally great though.

Ed H

Trad climber

Santa Rosa, CA

May 21, 2014 - 04:42pm PT

Leap obscurity bump.

Anybody want to take me up Fantasia or Fear no Evil? I want to tour the run out on TR! Looking for a partner on June 5 or 6.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

May 21, 2014 - 05:37pm PT

pfft when i rope solo that route
i equalize the first two bolts for
my upward anchor.

ed i'd like to climb on june 6 with you.
we could do both routes.

or maybe some other obscurity like fireworks is good.