The Road to the 3rd Flatiron …....... (a day with DR)***

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Fuzzywuzzy

climber
Aug 25, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
Right On Roy!

Superb.

However, I felt that you should have mentioned that the photo of Pete and Re-Pete was BEFORE my charisma transplant!! How gauche.

I forgive you.

F10

Trad climber
e350
Aug 25, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
"Sounded" like a full day
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 25, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
Now I've believed for some time that ST needed a "3rd Flatiron" thread, which
I might get 'round to starting some day when life felt too suburban. But here
Tarbuster has launched one far exceeding the poetry and sweep of what I had
imagined, leaving me to look on in wonder. What an entry move! It's gonna be
tough for the little Wind Ridge to catch up!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 25, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
Au contraire Mr. H

In the fine art of screwing your second I told a story of doing the Third from the very bottom (and using a novel thread belay).
scuffy b

climber
Sinatra to Singapore
Aug 25, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
Glorious, beautiful post.

Thanks, Tar.
Mimi

climber
Aug 25, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
Tar, we're honored. Great thread.

Many of us have been pulled into DR's orbit. What a thrill!
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Aug 25, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
Thanks for a great read. The Third Flatiron was my very first rock climb so a big nostalgia trip for me too.


The photo of Frank Sacherer was taken by Joe Weis, his climbing partner. John Rander, a friend of both men, actually posted it to ST.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Aug 25, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
Tar strikes again. Hurray!! This thread is so affirming of taco world! Thanks. I'd like to do that Third, once went to it and all hell broke loose from the sky. We ran in sheer terror!


Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 25, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
Just a beautiful trip report Tar!
We should all have our conversations so perfectly illustrated.
Thanks,
Zander
Fletcher

Trad climber
Shivasana
Aug 26, 2009 - 02:01am PT
One of your best post-a-logues yet, Tarbuster! You have a way with words and pictures. Thanks!

Eric
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 26, 2009 - 02:15am PT
Another fine tarstory - thanks!

Ron's story of mischief on the Third Flatiron is at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=201089&msg=201220#msg201220 A great thread from Curt (dirtineye).
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Aug 26, 2009 - 09:24am PT
Tar,

Were the teal ones after the red ninja's? I thought those were called Ninja's as well?

Paglia? Missed that thread, but for sure it was your post. How about a DeSade post, then the freaks will really come out.

Prod.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 26, 2009 - 09:26am PT
Terrific as usual! Thanks...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 26, 2009 - 09:41am PT
And I wuzn't invited??????





BWAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!

(Actually, I wuz havin' lunch with the previous poster,
ms. Crimpster, who's got a bunion larger than Doug's and
mine put together. . .whoa!!!!!

Thanks for the trip, Featherbuster!!!!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Aug 26, 2009 - 10:18am PT
Thanks, Tar!

Nothing like visiting someone else's area and getting guided up a classic. I believe I heard correctly that he has done 93 routes in the Flatirons. Clambering upon them has been a dream of mine going way back to photos in old Gerry and Holubar catalogs glimpsed in my earliest years of climbing (a frank troll, this, to see if anyone can come up with one of those cover shots).

That rock is stellar. So grippy, enviable texture, invitingly wavy, and with a solid absence of any hint of loose rock that rivals even the south face of Charlotte Dome.

Even though we took along a rope (perhaps Tar's kind concession to my being an area nOOb) we also spoke of John Gill's wonderful notion of "option soloing" from among the menu of options presented by the stone.

Warning: tech talk ahead. Yes, they are Ninjas. John Bachar gave them to me to review, which makes them one of the first pair to come into the country. I first took them up on Needle Spoon in Tuolumne, but the very idea of a slipper felt so strange that I carried another trusted pair of shoes clipped to my rack just in case.

I fell in love with them. They are now on their 4th or 5th -- I've lost count -- resole with Stealth rand. And after they started falling off my feet, they got new elastic (thanks, Rubber Room). Still my favorite rock shoes, ever.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Aug 26, 2009 - 11:49am PT
What an absolutely wonderful romp. Thanks you guys for keeping it real. I am envious,









of SteveW.







p.s. more pictures please!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Aug 26, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
Well, second.

First was second too. Two pitches up the Second, rain, bail rap to the right.

Second time (on Third) the rain held off 'till the last pitch. Thunderous raps were pretty exciting, tho.

Who'se on First?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 26, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
Who'se on First?

That was my first Boulder climb, 1968. Felt adventurous in December with
some ice on the route, and 3 guys on one 120-foot goldline rope. We started
up late enough to guarantee a nighttime downclimbing descent (not enough
rope to rap). So I have much nostalgia about the Flatirons and look forward to
more stories & pictures.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 26, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
I remember an old fuzzy picture in, I think, High Over Boulder of someone doing the 3rd wearing those old time roller skates. The ones that you cranked on to the soles of your shoes. Does anyone else remember this, know the details? Might have been in the 1st printing of Climb.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
From CLIMB !

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