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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 25, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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Here is what that road looks, or looked like, YESTERDAY:
Given Doug Robinson’s tall stature within the pantheon of cragsmen and their quests,
I thought I should/might wear the big boots to stand up to him: ………..could be I overdid it ???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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But that’s the least of it.
The whole point of going climbing was to provide theater for conversation.
So we talked about stuff like:
(all photos stolen here on the taco: some w/attribution, apologies otherwise)
.
.
.
.
High Sierra rock climbs:
Norman Clyde:
Old magazines and their voice in the culture:
Stonemasters:
(photo Graham)
Don Jensen and Rivendell Mountain Works:
(photo DR)
(photo from FatBastard, post on Supertaco, gear collection)
John Bachar:
(Steelmonkey Collection)
Personal development & LARGO per se:
(photo Accomazzo)
Kauk:
(Rowell photo)
Kamps & Higgins and sparsely bolted slab tradition in the Flatirons, or the lack thereof:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Higgins_(rock_climber);
Self-realization before leaving:
(Dano)
Integration of the masculine and feminine drives within the context of human evolution, behavior and art:
Behavior (a natural follow-up w/ DR, Bardini, Carter below):
(photo Guido)
(photo courtesy Carter)
The inherent risks of Alpinism juxtaposed between European and American cultural narratives of risk assessment:
(Sacherer or partner & Rébuffat below)
(photo via Jan Sacherer? from Supertopo)
Plus some old times:
(Nat'l Geo June '74)
Walter Rosenthal and the drywall dogs:
(photo courtesy Carter)
Tom Carter and systems management for winter travel:
(photo Haan)
Making weddings happen:
(Grossman-Mimi pairing)
Lisa:
And last but not least …if not top dead center: our man Royal (At Taquitz, by Frost):
(from 1969 ASCENT)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
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Yes I do have pictures of us clambering the Third Flatiron....
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 25, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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Poetic to the core. Bet you had fun putting this one together. Lovely collage, wow, Carter with hair.
Beware of climbers with white "Halibut Hats" bearing gifts.
cheers
guido
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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Geez, that must've been some good times, with good company!
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Barcus
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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Thank you for sharing your LIFE with us!
Marcus
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 25, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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What a post Tarbuster, glad you had a fine time. Keep it coming.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 25, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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Nice Roy!
Very cool!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
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Thanks all !!!
Right then...
Starting up the marvelous slabbery:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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I will say that Doug Robinson is a very down to earth fellow:
Nevertheless,
Personal heroes tend to invade one's senses with that larger-than-life impact:
And we, the faithful and the acolyte alike, tend to ascribe their presence with a special significance and likewise seek to bestow upon them the fitting adulation !!!
So without further ado I present to you….
The feet of Doug Robinson:
And the hand of Doug Robinson:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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But enough of the fawning and fooling.
Back to the razor's edge for real-life, real fun sports action:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 25, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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philosophical waxing, very nice entree (not to be confused with the feminine form of waxing)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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And then the weather began to present itself, as has often been it's want to do this fine summer.
So we made a quick dash for the summit:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Now then, er, I mean just now,
I present to you our *just before the summit summit picture*
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L
climber
Return of the Rebel L Gang
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Aug 25, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
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AAAAAAAWWWWEEESOME!!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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We really did top out I promise.
Then quickly and stealthily down climbed the last pitch,
So that we might snake our way through the abundant rappelero's and ledges alike...
Finally to arrive at this warm and apropos welcome,
From the local bar:
Then it was off to entertain a day's end bit of the EldoPrance™
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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I will now seek repose, beer in hand.
I suggest you do the same; perhaps to entertain a little collateral Supertopo window shopping.......
Until DR de-planes and posts the entry pitch (TarLead) photograph(s) to our climb of Wind Ridge, Wind Tower in Eldorado Canyon.....
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 25, 2009 - 08:04pm PT
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What kind of shoes are those? Looks like a homemade 5.10 Moc.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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'Nef,
Dem' kicks on Dougie are Way Old School Boreal NINJA by the looks of 'tings....
(heyyyy... waidaminute .... since when is a slipper oldschool ???)
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Aug 25, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
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Right On Roy!
Superb.
However, I felt that you should have mentioned that the photo of Pete and Re-Pete was BEFORE my charisma transplant!! How gauche.
I forgive you.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Aug 25, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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"Sounded" like a full day
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 25, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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Now I've believed for some time that ST needed a "3rd Flatiron" thread, which
I might get 'round to starting some day when life felt too suburban. But here
Tarbuster has launched one far exceeding the poetry and sweep of what I had
imagined, leaving me to look on in wonder. What an entry move! It's gonna be
tough for the little Wind Ridge to catch up!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 25, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Au contraire Mr. H
In the fine art of screwing your second I told a story of doing the Third from the very bottom (and using a novel thread belay).
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 25, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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Glorious, beautiful post.
Thanks, Tar.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 25, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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Tar, we're honored. Great thread.
Many of us have been pulled into DR's orbit. What a thrill!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Aug 25, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Thanks for a great read. The Third Flatiron was my very first rock climb so a big nostalgia trip for me too.
The photo of Frank Sacherer was taken by Joe Weis, his climbing partner. John Rander, a friend of both men, actually posted it to ST.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 25, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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Tar strikes again. Hurray!! This thread is so affirming of taco world! Thanks. I'd like to do that Third, once went to it and all hell broke loose from the sky. We ran in sheer terror!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 25, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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Just a beautiful trip report Tar!
We should all have our conversations so perfectly illustrated.
Thanks,
Zander
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Shivasana
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Aug 26, 2009 - 02:01am PT
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One of your best post-a-logues yet, Tarbuster! You have a way with words and pictures. Thanks!
Eric
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Aug 26, 2009 - 09:24am PT
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Tar,
Were the teal ones after the red ninja's? I thought those were called Ninja's as well?
Paglia? Missed that thread, but for sure it was your post. How about a DeSade post, then the freaks will really come out.
Prod.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 26, 2009 - 09:26am PT
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Terrific as usual! Thanks...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 26, 2009 - 09:41am PT
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And I wuzn't invited??????
BWAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!
(Actually, I wuz havin' lunch with the previous poster,
ms. Crimpster, who's got a bunion larger than Doug's and
mine put together. . .whoa!!!!!
Thanks for the trip, Featherbuster!!!!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 26, 2009 - 10:18am PT
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Thanks, Tar!
Nothing like visiting someone else's area and getting guided up a classic. I believe I heard correctly that he has done 93 routes in the Flatirons. Clambering upon them has been a dream of mine going way back to photos in old Gerry and Holubar catalogs glimpsed in my earliest years of climbing (a frank troll, this, to see if anyone can come up with one of those cover shots).
That rock is stellar. So grippy, enviable texture, invitingly wavy, and with a solid absence of any hint of loose rock that rivals even the south face of Charlotte Dome.
Even though we took along a rope (perhaps Tar's kind concession to my being an area nOOb) we also spoke of John Gill's wonderful notion of "option soloing" from among the menu of options presented by the stone.
Warning: tech talk ahead. Yes, they are Ninjas. John Bachar gave them to me to review, which makes them one of the first pair to come into the country. I first took them up on Needle Spoon in Tuolumne, but the very idea of a slipper felt so strange that I carried another trusted pair of shoes clipped to my rack just in case.
I fell in love with them. They are now on their 4th or 5th -- I've lost count -- resole with Stealth rand. And after they started falling off my feet, they got new elastic (thanks, Rubber Room). Still my favorite rock shoes, ever.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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What an absolutely wonderful romp. Thanks you guys for keeping it real. I am envious,
of SteveW.
p.s. more pictures please!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Well, second.
First was second too. Two pitches up the Second, rain, bail rap to the right.
Second time (on Third) the rain held off 'till the last pitch. Thunderous raps were pretty exciting, tho.
Who'se on First?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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Who'se on First?
That was my first Boulder climb, 1968. Felt adventurous in December with
some ice on the route, and 3 guys on one 120-foot goldline rope. We started
up late enough to guarantee a nighttime downclimbing descent (not enough
rope to rap). So I have much nostalgia about the Flatirons and look forward to
more stories & pictures.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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I remember an old fuzzy picture in, I think, High Over Boulder of someone doing the 3rd wearing those old time roller skates. The ones that you cranked on to the soles of your shoes. Does anyone else remember this, know the details? Might have been in the 1st printing of Climb.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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From CLIMB !
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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I'll scan and post the full historical treatise on the Flatiron's early climbing developement this evening...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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Doug Robinson made an offstage but unforgettable appearance on the day that
started my brief Grade VI career. A story I wrote about Triassic Sands recounts
this appearance in paragraph 4:
http://pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/climb_02.htm
Different parts of the Triassic Sands story later got included in Larry DeAngelo's
Red Rock Odyssey, and in Jerry Handren's Red Rock guidebook. But the Doug
Robinson vignette, one of my favorites, never made it into print.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 26, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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Tar-ther Roy,
That National Geographic with Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell, and Dennis Hennek's clean accent of Half dome, was a true mile stone in climbing. I graduated North Hollywood High School in 1974. They were my hero's, I looked at that mag many times. It's when everybody switched to clean climbing and saved the rock for everyone! It's good to see you climbing together!.
Cheers!
(Late 70's or early 80's) I look like Doug only taller? Top of 1/2 Dome
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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"That National Geographic with Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell, and Dennis Hennek's clean accent of Half dome, was a true mile stone in climbing."
Indeed !!!
OK, here's a taste of some Flatiron history from CLIMB !
(more later)
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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Hey, is that a young Mike Paul and Dick Cilley?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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what a great TR
joi de vivre
I could feel it...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:05am PT
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Less historical photo from 1st Flatiron, on the 1968 n00b outing described at the top of
this page.
John Byrd with our 120' goldline, wondering where the route goes and how to avoid the ice.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
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History from the pages of CLIMB !!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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The 3rd has an aura, even now trampled to death.
I wonder how the Arapaho viewed it.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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Good lord can you imagine climbing in those bulky dresses?
Them ladies were hard core.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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Uh, the Arapahoe indian's view? ......not from any roads I'd guess.
Time to wrap up my account of a day with Doug!
Wind Tower jubilance:
Wind Tower summit moves:
And the obligatory, celebratory TOAST !!!!!!!
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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Wonderful wonderful thread Roy!
But tell me are those potstickers or Rocky Mountain Oysters?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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We could make a whole thread just out of photos of people having a beer
with Tarbuster at the end of a day. In every single one, they'd be looking
happy with life.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Great post Roy!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
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It shud stay there too!!!!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Dam-Would have been smart to be in the shoe string business back then.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 30, 2009 - 10:06am PT
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A younger Boulder, from the 3rd Flatiron in 1974.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 30, 2009 - 10:07am PT
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Fabulous thread, Roy!
A day out in your house but Mr. Robinson's neighborhood! LOL
Doug is a prince of a man and the nazzzzzzz, to boot! It has been a real pleasure hanging with him, of late.
So who is credited with the FA on the Third?
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2009 - 10:20am PT
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The FA of the standard East Face route is credited to Floyd and Earl Millard in 1906.
Must have been a big adventure. But I can imagine that some Arapahoe Brave beat them to it generations earlier. Native peoples have been living here for (tens of) thousands of years. I can't imagine seeing the Flat Irons every day and not exploring them. Seeing eagles land atop these landmarks must have been powerful lure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 11:36am PT
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Then came the cowboys.
Nice portrait sent from Doug Robinson,
Taken during our post Flatiron ascent of Wind Tower:
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 30, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
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What you can't see in these shots is that while celebrating our ascent of Third Flatiron and psyching ourselves up for Wind Tower, we retired to Boulder for a beer and a margarita.
I could get used to this urban climbing....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 30, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Did the Wind Tower happen right after the celebration? Usually my celebrations
have the effect of un-psyching me for further climbing that day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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Yup.
Scrambled synapses imart a re-set, re-ordering effect.
Maybe the adrenals kick back in to keep stride?
Like ... day one, part two.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Party on belay Garth.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
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W/Eeyonkee?
I was never there...
I know nuth-thingk.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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Women may have been involved...
No matter: I'm taken.
Er, KEPT.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 30, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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KEEP on partying on belay, then.
As to the normally debilitating effects of cocktails, it is important to keep in mind a little-know backwater of psycho-pharmacology known as the paradoxical effect.
With weed, for example, it is known that 15% of the population behave paradoxically under the influence, actually becoming energized. Happy to say I am one of the lucky ones.
However, no weeds were burned to make those photos. Unfortunately.
Back to the drug in question that refreshed afternoon, one of my favorite (among many) quotes about altered climbing:
"Two beers and three Red Bulls, and for 20 minutes I can climb ANYTHING!"
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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"Two beers and three Red Bulls, and for 20 minutes I can climb ANYTHING!"
Forget the witness, Can I get a mantra?
Oh I forgot to add to my earlier post; Yippie Yi Yo FeatherBuster.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 30, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Sounds kinda like the Dreaded Beer Effect that makes a mockery of my pool shooting prowess past a certain pint!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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Ode to The Sweet15™™™
We happy few...one puff for me & two for you!
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Aug 30, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
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What are those treaded shoes you are wearing on Wind Tower?
Good thread.
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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Galibier Super Guides !!!
Oooops, wrong thread.
Those are La Sportiva Mega Dru......
A sophisticated board lasted boot, which feels slip lasted & lined like the Synchro: it has a deep heel pocket and is vaguely drop toe (not merely flat lasted; it helps load the toes forward without needing to fit tightly), complemented by a nice low profile toe box for thin cracks.
Re-fitted with a 1/3 sole, added up front, using 5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber: more firm than C4, similar to Onyx, & thick to better complement the edging oriented design afforded by the last & lugs.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Aug 30, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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You know, all the history stuff is cool and all, but.............
Check out that thigh meat! Yeah baby!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 30, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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Bump for the 'buster', whichever one he is!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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La Sportiva Mega Dudes Bump!
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skywalker
climber
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Oct 29, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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Tarbuster, thanks for the shots! Right side??? I remember free soloing (onsight) that side after running into crowds (standard route). I thought I was going to die... your cal age of photos reminded me of what went through my head on that trip but yours do not look like my family! Thanks
Cheers!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oct 29, 2009 - 09:42am PT
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Ament/McCarty's original blue guidebook listed as a recommended route not anything on the
E face proper, but instead the 1911 Gully. Does anyone climb that route nowadays?
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Oct 29, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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Excellent thread Tarbuster, great history, envy you folks that get to live nearby such great areas. As to Dougs shoes, BITD alot of hard routes have been done in Ninjas, one of my alltime favorites, had a green pair with a patch where my toes wore a hole in them, kept taking them to this shoe shop to be patched and the guy would examine them ever so closly but could never bring himself to ask what kinda shoes they were.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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I Missed this one, too. Thanks for creating it and bringing it back.
I've got a pair of those 'Dru's too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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1911 Gully. Does anyone climb that route nowadays?
1911 Gully on the Thrid Flatiron?
Who goes up, must come down...
Third Flatiron, Colorado 1911 Gully Route (5.5) A guy named Stefan Griebel took this shot of Bill Wright as he made a jump turn on the climbing route. January 10, 2007. There is NO runout at the bottom and no room to screw up. Uber Balls!!
from:
http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=261020
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Binks
Social climber
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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Wow, what a great post Tarbuster, thanks!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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Yikes! I wouldn't think the snow could be well attached.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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I could side slide that...
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Fletcher
Trad climber
somewhere approaching Ajna
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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I tasted this thread when it first went into the barrel and knew it had the makings of a great vintage. A second sample this time round is proving that handsomely true.
Good friends, good climbing, good food, good spirits, a bit o' history, some awesome footwear, some awesome headwear (must be a requirement to hang with this crowd), and far and wide ranging stimulating discourse. Who could ask for more?
Grazie!
Eric
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Fletcher
Trad climber
somewhere approaching Ajna
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Oct 29, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Now, on this crisp fall day, that gully photo turns one's thoughts to the winter activities. Nothing like a day in the backcountry on some boards.
I could probably survival ski that coiloir... wouldn't be pretty though.
Eric
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Cowboy up and over that little old bump!
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| Messages 1 - 88 of total 88 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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“What do you think Tarbuster, should I rig this piece with a screamer or the cordallette?
Let us know!