Eiger brand carabiner: Collectable?


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Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 27, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
Here is the Eiger Prototype hex #5, I do not know the year but the hex is in perfect unused condition. The friend that gave it to me got it in 73-76 in C4.
Credit: mucci

Trad climber
Hillsborough, NC
Oct 27, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
I remember Eigers and Libertys being pretty sub-standard compared to Chouinard. Haven't seen'em in a long time. I have an old Bonatti I keep my nut tool on.

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Oct 27, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
Chiloe: Yes on your input on tested Chouinard binners!!

In 1973 Bruce Franks, (currently the boss at Asolo/Lowe USA) sold me a rack of Chouinard D's that were stamped tested. He was leaving Moscow Idaho to become the first ever Camp 7 rep and was "lighting his load."

He explained that there had been a recall and test. He sent his batch in and got them back stamped tested: on the gates.

I was not aware of the smaller T test batch.

I suppose this makes any of the original untested Chouinard/Salewa D's from that period: "dangerous and collectable."

Damn! I don't have any!

Mountain climber
The Ocean State
Oct 28, 2009 - 12:46am PT
I'm still using a few of those 80s Chouinard Featherweights. When I need a ton of biners those tend to migrate from the bottom of the pile and slip onto the rack. They are incredibly light.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 28, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
Does anyone know who founded Eiger equipment and where the company had a physical location? Those of you in the biz back then, (like Lauria or Fritz) what year did Eiger enter the marketplace? I made my first Eiger purchases in 1970. As the Eiger offerings were fairly limited, I wonder if the gear itself was made in the USA as stamped or elsewhere?

Two RR biners of the three that carried his name. The most recent is a solid body offering (upper biner). The main problem with hollow carabiners from a liability standpoint is bending and buckling under load when clipped into awkward fixed pitons. A tube deforms over an edge far more easily than solid rod stock. Beyond that, the production cost in such a fussy design likely made the price point too high.


Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Oct 28, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
Steve: I can't help you with Eiger history. I got into climbing 1n 1969 and climbing retail in 1973. I used to own one anodized Eiger that I kept with my boating gear.

I do recall that the first Chouinard rep in NW, Dale Day, had previously worked for Eiger and he was a S. Cal. boy. Dale was in Portland, last I knew: reping footwear to shoe stores.

I do have another Robbins binner to add to your photos. This was the solid one stamped 3000 lbs. that came out late 70's. I also have the identical product: stamped Salewa W. Germany on one side and 3000 lbs on the other. Which leads me to believe that Robbins was "private labeling" existing Salewa items. Both weigh 53 grams, while the hollow robbins is 44 grams.
hollow robbins at bottom &#40;stamped 3100 lbs&#41; and solid at top &...
hollow robbins at bottom (stamped 3100 lbs) and solid at top (stamped 3000 lbs. Both say Salewa W. Germany on reverse and have tested stamped on gate.
Credit: Fritz
At bottom is Salewa W. Germany that is identical to solid Robbins and ...
At bottom is Salewa W. Germany that is identical to solid Robbins and for comparison a gereric oval at top weight 64 grams(in fact it is so gerenic it is unmarked).
Credit: Fritz

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 1, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
Biner bump!

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 1, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
An Eiger biners are junk bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 01:23am PT
But I feel so manly when I break them with me bare hands!!!

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Nov 2, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
Well now-----we (Mr. Grossman & me at least) are still hoping that Lauria or -----------someone-----will tell us about Eiger----the company?

Then we will move brightly on to the "Royal Robbins climbing gear thread."

My favorite Robbins quote from a mid 70's newletter: "This importing stuff is really a can of annelids."


Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Nov 13, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
Took a while to find out more about Eiger USA history. Bruce Franks from Asolo & Lowe finally supplied to me the fact that Eiger USA was owned by Mike Sturm.

As soon as I did the Goggle search on that-----of course I ended up right back at SuperTopo where Ed Bannister had answered the question all the way back in Sept 2009.

From Ed Bannister on this thread;


Mike Sturm, who originated the Eiger brand in the US

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 01:25pm PT

Mike Sturm was quite a guy, he had Stanley and later his son Peter Brozek in Pasadena make the Eiger and later the Liberty carabiner, what a piece of junk. When I went to work for Liberty as Technical product manager, I had KC Putnam deal with Brozek, I did not want to be associated in any way with that carabiner, and yes, if you still have any, take them off your rack.

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Mar 22, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
I didn't notice that anybody had posted one of
these rarities:

I guess I got my two bucks' worth out of this 'un!
Probably more like $1.25

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:00pm PT
Here's an ancient biner not too many of you have: a blue-anodized CMI, ca. 1970.
It had the oval shape of an Eiger, but a unique hooded gate to improve the minor-axis
strength (a well-known weakness of Eigers and other designs). Also it was a pretty
blue color, among the first such anodized biners.


Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Apr 13, 2010 - 12:17am PT
I found my missing "highly collectable" Eiger biner. Thought it was on my "river rescue-old biner rack."

Turns out it was hanging with my pitons.

Burgandy Eiger biner attached to the bong in my Feb. 2010 Retro climbi...
Burgandy Eiger biner attached to the bong in my Feb. 2010 Retro climbing (1971 revisited for Royal's B-Day) thread.

Kids! Don't try this at home!
Credit: Fritz

Trad climber
Apr 13, 2010 - 01:39am PT
The locking Eiger carabiners were the bomb! Anyone have any they want to sell? I'll buy them for good money, however much that is I don't know.

Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
Apr 13, 2010 - 02:11am PT
Five Decades
Eigers, Bedayns, Chouinards, SMC, etc; but lost my army steels, Gerry, and Holubar. How about a Bedayn stamped YC that Yvon dropped on me.

Army ring angles, Salathe Lost Arrow, Chouinard Pitons rack, Hexentric...
Army ring angles, Salathe Lost Arrow, Chouinard Pitons rack, Hexentrics rack, Friends rack, Camalots rack...
Credit: TomCochrane

Minneapolis, MN
Apr 13, 2010 - 10:09am PT
A. The Liberty/Eigers seem to have had edges machined to the sharpness of a katana.

B. In 1980s Hobo Dan tried to outsmart me by trading me 10 Libery biners for three of my Chouinard "death biner" screwgates, the kind with the tin sheath that "locked" down over the hinge. I resisted. I am a genius, or what?
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 13, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
Hey Fritz,

That Forrest gear sling is in pristine condition. How old is it?

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 16, 2010 - 10:11am PT
The "goldline" thread reminded me of something. See that faded-blue CMI biner that
I posted previous page? That picture was taken a few weeks ago. But if you look closely
at the photo below you can find the exact same carabiner (4th from top center, with
yellow tape), laid out with others of its kind at Gibralter Rock in 1969.

Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 16, 2010 - 11:58am PT
I had three original Chouinard biners from my rack in the early 70s. Does anyone have a handle on the relative timing given these markings?

Chouinard 1700 kG USA
Chouinard USA 2100 Kg
Chouinard Alcoa 7075

This is the mix of my working rack in the mid-70s in addition to the three Chouinards (I sent all of them to Ken Yager)

Everst oval 1
Rei oval 1
SMC ovals 15
Eiger ovals 7
Eiger locking 2
Bonati small D 3
Bonati large D 3
Army ovals 3
Clog D 1
Black Diamond ovals 2
Gerry oval 1
Robbins 3000 lbs 1
California oval 1
Bedayn 2
Messages 61 - 80 of total 99 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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