I put up a couple of routes on the righthand side of the Apron in the early 80s - Ephemeral Clogdance and Chiropodist Shop. Can anyone tell me what the status of the bolts is on those routes, and whether they are exposed to rockfall danger?
Rick McGregor - now in the far north of Sweden (not far from great granite in northern Norway!)
Sep 17, 2007, 07:27pm PT
To the right of "Salin' Shoes" the bolt at the anchor of "The Grunt" was never found, but the bolt above was and was replaced. The bolts on "Chiropodist Shop", "The Token", both pitches of "Emphemeral Clogdance", "Bark at the Moon" (the anchor was never found or any sign of an anchor at any stance but there was a bolt that matched the other bolts that lead up and left toward the top of the first pitch of "The Letdown" so it too was replaced), "Synchronousity", "Nothing on the Apron", "Something on the Apron" (not in guide books) and "Lean Years" also had thier bolts replaced this season. I have the bolts and hangers from at least the last five years "bagged and tagged" and some day I will sit down and make a proper list so the ASCA site can be brought up to date.
> What seemed worthy to climb and not death (or almost death) to climb out of what you replaced?
It's hard for me to judge the runouts, as I have a fairly numb left foot so I am a pretty bad slab climber. For example, I thought the 5.9 R move on Regular Mouth p2 was too scary to try, but it involves trusting / feeling your left foot. But Bruce Hildenbrand told me the other day that it was considered to be the easiest 5.9 on the Apron back in the 70s.
Incidentally, we also found a couple of newer routes which are not in the guidebooks yet:
between Grack Right and Hot Tin Roof / Ochre Fields
between Tightrope and Hoppy's Favorite
You may have also seen there is a newish one pitch route with many bolts at the base, between Goodrich Left and Goodright Right (just right of the lowest rap anchor on Goodrich Left).
There are also some random pitches here and there which have some bolts shown on the guidebook topo but don't have names or ratings listed. These might be fun to explore:
1-2 pitch variation, right of Deep Throat p3-4
1 pitch variation to Regular Mouth. There are some bolts which go between the two lines shown for p3 of Regular Mouth
I have some topo notes on these, and I'll try to make an updated topo at some point.
Regular Mouth will never be popular, because p2 has a slick 5.9 move, with pro 8' below you in a low angle corner.
It looked very hazardous for my ankle, so I tossed a hook to a ledge above the move and aided/cheated past it.
Awesome! Long live otherwise fun routes that never get done due to the persistence of outdated technology and ethics.
> Dolt Hanger on first pitch of Tightrope was Chuck Cochrane's. Soon Vern joined in the effort.
Cool. The Dolt hanger on the bolt I replaced on Tightrope was the first bolt on the last pitch of Tightrope.
Is there a story on the last pitch? Apparently the last bolt is by itself, and not a 2 bolt anchor. Did you feel the pitch could be extended at some point? Or do you think it would be good or OK to have 2 bolts at the high point?