Bolt replacement 2009

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Messages 41 - 48 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 30, 2009 - 06:26am PT
Used to enjoy those nicely named Apron Routes. Rocks didn't fall anywhere near them.

But I don't think anybody replaced the bolts on them either. They'd probably hold a slab fall but are worthy of maintenance.

Sadly, the Apron age is over and they don't see much, if any, traffic anymore.

I remember Deep Throat and Hoppy's favorite as worth doing but only have done Deep Throat within the past 15 years. I backed off Ochre fields when my rope would reach a belay.

What seemed worthy to climb and not death (or almost death) to climb out of what you replaced?

PEace

Karl
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 30, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
Rick,

Roger replaced the bolts on your climbs in September 2007.
The 2007 Apron replacement thread is at:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=441303
and here is where your routes are mentioned:
----

Roger Brown
Sep 17, 2007, 07:27pm PT
To the right of "Salin' Shoes" the bolt at the anchor of "The Grunt" was never found, but the bolt above was and was replaced. The bolts on "Chiropodist Shop", "The Token", both pitches of "Emphemeral Clogdance", "Bark at the Moon" (the anchor was never found or any sign of an anchor at any stance but there was a bolt that matched the other bolts that lead up and left toward the top of the first pitch of "The Letdown" so it too was replaced), "Synchronousity", "Nothing on the Apron", "Something on the Apron" (not in guide books) and "Lean Years" also had thier bolts replaced this season. I have the bolts and hangers from at least the last five years "bagged and tagged" and some day I will sit down and make a proper list so the ASCA site can be brought up to date.
----

The ASCA list of climbs replaced is at:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
Sometimes it gets slightly out of date, but it's a fairly complete list.

A summary of where Roger has worked with me and several other folks these past 3 summers on bolt replacement:
 Arches Terrace area 6/2007
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=394886
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=400384
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=413885
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=416237

 Glacier Point Apron - West 8/2007
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=441303

 Middle Cathedral North Face Apron 6/2008
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=621928
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=622678

 Glacier Point Apron - Central 8/2008
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=659883

 Glacier Point Apron - East 6/2009
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=912351
(this thread)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 30, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Karl,

> What seemed worthy to climb and not death (or almost death) to climb out of what you replaced?

It's hard for me to judge the runouts, as I have a fairly numb left foot so I am a pretty bad slab climber. For example, I thought the 5.9 R move on Regular Mouth p2 was too scary to try, but it involves trusting / feeling your left foot. But Bruce Hildenbrand told me the other day that it was considered to be the easiest 5.9 on the Apron back in the 70s.

Incidentally, we also found a couple of newer routes which are not in the guidebooks yet:
 between Grack Right and Hot Tin Roof / Ochre Fields
 between Tightrope and Hoppy's Favorite
You may have also seen there is a newish one pitch route with many bolts at the base, between Goodrich Left and Goodright Right (just right of the lowest rap anchor on Goodrich Left).

There are also some random pitches here and there which have some bolts shown on the guidebook topo but don't have names or ratings listed. These might be fun to explore:
 1-2 pitch variation, right of Deep Throat p3-4
 1 pitch variation to Regular Mouth. There are some bolts which go between the two lines shown for p3 of Regular Mouth

I have some topo notes on these, and I'll try to make an updated topo at some point.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 30, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
"You may have also seen there is a newish one pitch route with many bolts at the base, between Goodrich Left and Goodright Right (just right of the lowest rap anchor on Goodrich Left). "

Done that, it ends with a short roof right? Great climb with pretty good pro.

Peace

Karl
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
Aug 24, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
Dolt Hanger on first pitch of Tightrope was Chuck Cochrane's. Soon Vern joined in the effort.

Oakshotte had those stainless hangers made that were used on Hoppy's Favorite.

Amazing Tat!!! Yikes.

Great efforts all around!

TC
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 24, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
Hey Rick-

I have logged some airtime on Ephemeral clogdance, up to the 3rd bolt. The bolts looked good and were all seated properly (no spinners).

Don't know about the rockfall probability in that area of the apron, it didn't look as though any damage had been done around your route.

Great route! I hope to finish it someday when I get the toe strength to continue!


Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 24, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
Really great job you guys. Kudos to you for the hard work and the cool photos. You got me stoked to go over there and do a few of the routes next trip. Keep up the good work.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 24, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
Tom,

> Dolt Hanger on first pitch of Tightrope was Chuck Cochrane's. Soon Vern joined in the effort.

Cool. The Dolt hanger on the bolt I replaced on Tightrope was the first bolt on the last pitch of Tightrope.

Is there a story on the last pitch? Apparently the last bolt is by itself, and not a 2 bolt anchor. Did you feel the pitch could be extended at some point? Or do you think it would be good or OK to have 2 bolts at the high point?
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