(another) quick jaunt to Temple Crag: Sun Ribbon Arete

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slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
last year, about this time, Caughtinside and I zipped over Tioga Pass and climbed a route on Temple Crag.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=643502&msg=644209#msg644209

We had so much fun that we decided to go back. This time we crashed near Mono Lake:



And sped into Bishop to snag a permit.



Hiking in, nice & hot, even bumped into a young lady I know from Berkeley:


Set up camp at the BEACH:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EbT29fE2sE

Did a little smack-talking:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq8oFPFd9LA

I discovered that the eggs I had schlepped were not hard-boiled --I had thought they were-- so I tested the culinary limits of a Jetboil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS3iyq07J2k

And watched the sun set:


Woke up bright an early and jumped onto the snowy approach:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGLs6EN2FxY

And finally roped up for P1 of the Sun Ribbon Arete.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vUMDYAoK6w

etcetera


Made several vain attempts at lasso-ing the horn for the
requisite Tyrolean traverse:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZBjID5Nafc

Saw some other folks over on Venusian Blind:


Chopped some gratuitous tat:


Caught some, umm, "weather."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xec1DDmZAeM

And then it started hailing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbfKbZy1iVM

Dave jumped onto the crux pitch. Pretty soft for 5.10 and a VERY short bit of it, at that. He found some wet lichen covered footholds and almost lost a Link cam to the booty gods... but I retrieved it.


Things cleared up and we proceeded to plod along the sharp arete that makes up the top several pitches of Sun Ribbon.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZHkLxGY1_w

Dave kept his good cheer for some more gendarme-wrestling:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nLAUWRuvH0

And we topped out. Finally. The Sun Ribbon finished very close to the summit of Temple Crag, and having tagged the summit the year previous we decided to forego the formality this time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoJbbtGQsek

Back at camp, 12 hours tent-to-tent, we were feeling pretty knackered. The LAST time, an ascent of Venusian took ~4 hours, whereas the Sun Ribbon clocked in at 9 hours roped. Altitude plus weather plus no lunch equals slow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM_1xDDlMvM

Fin.

(note: we did not run into Flouride, but heard about her helmet. Glad you're OK girl!)


Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jul 20, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
How sweet it is!
thanks,
Zander
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 20, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
Very cool!

good job. You guys are a pretty good team. Funny too!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 20, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
Oh, those beers are tasty too! Had about 18 the other weekend.....

EDIT: Yo Fatty, just so people don't think I'm suicidal, that was 18 over TWO days....just keepin' the record straight.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 20, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
Nice stuff Slob!! You really got a ton of vids, and a couple nice shots!

I just checked my camera, I've got a vid of you on the tyrolean and a couple other neat gendarme shots, I'll try to get them to you manana.

Fun trip!!
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Jul 20, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
Nice TR boys and I can vouch for bluey, saw him down a dozen at CRSP.



The evil one
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Jul 20, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
Nice. One of my top five favorite routes - so good!
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Jul 20, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
Technology has really changed this game. Love those film clips, in particular the look on the face of the hat when he says it's going to clear up.
We did the Sun Ribbon twenty five years ago this week. We didn't even have a camera.
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
btw we both agreed that Venusian Blind had far more enjoyable, sustained-ish climbing, with far less loose BS.
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
Jul 21, 2009 - 04:39am PT
Sweet TR! It was about 4 years ago I climbed this route. Loved every minute of it. Will be out there again in less than two weeks to give Venusian Blind a go.
imnotclever

climber
Jul 21, 2009 - 05:17am PT
Nice TR.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Jul 21, 2009 - 07:36am PT
Good stuff !
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jul 21, 2009 - 07:53am PT
Nice summit shots!!!

Cool TR

Keep it up
TYeary

climber
Jul 21, 2009 - 08:00am PT
Very cool. Brings back great memories of that route. I always thought how cool is it that the opening pitch and scramble to the notch above belie the great climbing found higher on route. Truly a Sierra classic. Thanks,
Tony
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Jul 21, 2009 - 08:43am PT
Great job guys. Cool to see what I missed out on.

You were way smart camping where you did. The early AM hike over from 3rd Lake wasn't worth the nice shady campsite. If I do it again, I'm camping where you guys ended up.

Were the skeeters as bad over there as they were at 3rd?
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 08:52am PT
Mosquitoes were not bad at all where we camped (NB I am from New Hampshire, so my bug meter is not attenuated to California), except for a short bit right after sunset.

And you're right: the early AM approach is much nicer without the talus maze.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 21, 2009 - 08:55am PT
We had about 1 hour of bad skeeters in the evening both nights, but for the most part it was a lot less buggy up at the beach than down by 3rd lake.

Drawback is you have to hoof it a bit to get water. But the sand was great, we spent a lot of time barefoot out there.
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Jul 21, 2009 - 09:00am PT
Great job guys. Cool to see what I missed out on.

You were way smart camping where you did. The early AM hike over from 3rd Lake wasn't worth the nice shady campsite. If I do it again, I'm camping where you guys ended up.

Were the skeeters as bad over there as they were at 3rd?
nutjob

climber
Berkeley, CA
Jul 21, 2009 - 09:01am PT
Good stuff!

Thanks for the comparison to Venusian, I enjoyed SRA and your words might encourage me to try Venusian. Maybe after I get up the cahoneys and skills for Dark Star.
Swami Jr.

Trad climber
Bath, NY
Jul 21, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
Beautiful gents. Well done and kudos for the inspiration.
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