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sportcamper
Trad climber
east gone west
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Jun 17, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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Bump!
Found myself in north conway today after a job interview-
Anyone out there in tacoland around whitehorse or cathedral?
If so..climb fri,sat or sun!!!
Weather is looking better!!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
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So, what should you climb on a hot summer day, when your fitness and skillz are near zero?
Cowpoke and I had never done the Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse, but it sounded like fun.
The first few leads, starting up Beginner's Route, are so easy we practically ran up them.
As a result of that smart strategy, we felt overheated and tired by the start of pitch 3.
With 18 leads still to go.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 10:25am PT
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The Girdle Traverse starts to go sideways on P4, tripping from Beginner's Route Direct across to the thread belay on Standard Route. Pretty granite all around.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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From Standard Route's thread belay, Cowpoke led a traverse out toward Sliding Board.
From Sliding Board, an R rated pitch (P6) led across to a belay just below the Wedge buttress.
By this time it was really hot.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jul 31, 2010 - 10:43am PT
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Did you guys finish ? it must nave been blazin' on the south Butt. Nice climb, I have done it several times.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jul 31, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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Slabbo:
Did you guys ever do the 'Big Plum' or 'King Crab' ?
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jul 31, 2010 - 07:01pm PT
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Ya- Big Plumb once with the late Karl Mallmen. 34 pitches ? Took us a LONG day , about 15 hours. 10+, except for the first move, Recluse which is 11a. Lot's of rope work ans other shenanigans.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 31, 2010 - 08:04pm PT
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Sounds like a length challenger to the Trapps traverse at the Gunks!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2010 - 10:45am PT
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Eric led P7, an undercling past a wasps' nest.
This completed the first 1/3 of our route, which had crossed all the classic lines of the Whitehorse slabs. The next 1/3, which from below looks like a stroll across tree ledges, had a totally different and more dangerous character.
The tree-ledges section is mostly easy climbing, short vegetated slabs or walls separated by bushwhacking or winding through trees. What made it serious was the great amount of loose rock. It wasn't that much danger to us, but to any people below us -- like the class of youngsters we could see and hear on the first pitch of Dike Route, hundreds of feet below.
I've spent many days climbing the clean, short routes below this area -- climbs like Waiting for Comeau, Short Order, Man's Best Friend, Future Shock, Seventh Seal, Beelzebub and many others -- perhaps the most concentrated and varied collection of clean short trad climbs in New Hampshire. Most of these routes, you rap off after a pitch or two, avoiding the unappealing tree ledges above.
What I never realized until we crossed this section on the Girdle Traverse is how much unstable chaos rests amid the trees overhead. Countless tons of scree, talus, stacked and barely balanced blocks hangs above all those clean, crowded short climbs below. Some places we found signs of recent rockfall. There was no safer escape, so we crossed through trying our best not to dislodge any rubble.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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cowpoke
climber
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we need more pics of the guy who got me up in that tree.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 29, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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Of Inferno, Ed Webster says “A route to be savored, even on a hot day.”
At 5.8, it’s also “…one of the most popular adventures on the entire South Buttress.”
Monday, however, we had the entire South Buttress to ourselves – it was a hot day, but after a rainy week we savored it and Inferno.
Danny, taking us up to the Inferno corner:
Ken, on that same pitch:
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 29, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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Danny, on pitch 2, agreeing that 5.8 fingers to hands is darn fun:
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 29, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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And, Ken's headed for the topout, a bushwack down, a swim in the river, and beers:
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 29, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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Back at the last ledge before topping out, I had the opportunity to dangle my feet for a few minutes, savoring Whitehorse.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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Looks like a fun adventure!
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cowpoke
climber
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Aug 23, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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A busy Thursday at Whitehorse bump...the parking lot was packed
(Tessa digging into the pineapple, yum)
...and so were all the moderates.
I wanted to do beginner's with the kids, which we got rained off a few years ago. But, I realized it now feels below the girls when they started calling it "extreme hiking while lugging ropes."
Cooling in the kanc after extreme hiking.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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Nice day! Extreme hiking indeed, shoulda took 'em up Interloper.
I realize that we never did finish the Girdle Traverse TR.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 23, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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My partner Tom Tucker and I did our first ever multi-pitch route on Whitehorse Ledge back in the mid 1970s.
Not really sure what route we did - we just roped up and started climbing. Looking at topos now I think it was the Standard Route. I just remember being really scared, not much pro, and climbing up through a double overhang. Was that it?
Here is a photo of Tom as we topped out, circa 1976 or 1977. We were, like, 16 or 17 years old. Can't believe our parents just let us drive up to the NH for a weekend of climbing.
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cowpoke
climber
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Aug 24, 2012 - 09:08am PT
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shoulda took 'em up Interloper
And, make them lead it...because daddy would be too scared! I'll lead pitch 1 and 3, if Chiloe takes 2 and 4.
I realize that we never did finish the Girdle Traverse TR.
Maybe we are still on that darn thing, bush whacking and lichen scampering.
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