| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
cultureshock
Trad climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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UPDATED:
I'm looking for a topo or two for the Incredible Hulk.
I'm interested in Blow Hard and Solar flare/solar burn (sun burn?)
Anyone done these routes?
Hulk Photo Topo (full REZ)!
The Solar Flare & Blow Hard lines are rough and corrections welcomed!
Any advice/beta for Eye of the storm?
If you don't want to post up please send me an email/message.
I've complied all the other Hulk Beta here:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/07/incredible-hulk-101-tips-tricks-and-beta/
Let me know if anyone has comments/updates.
Thanks,
Luke
Original Post:
I'm looking for a topo or two for the Incredible Hulk that show the routes to the right of Positive Vibrations as well as those between Sunspot Dihedral and PV.
Any information regarding Airstream, Tradewinds, The Venturi Effect or AstroHulk would be appreciated.
Any info on the Power Ranger start for AstroHulk/PV would be nice too.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I, too, would be very interested in that beta. I was just talking to someone about how I needed to post on here and ask for it recently. If someone supplies the beta, THANK YOU!
Josh
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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So there is a topo for Airstream here:
http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/Airstream.jpg
The Venturi Effect:
http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/venturieffect.pdf
Tradewinds:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Topo/Topo_91373.html
So far I haven't found anything on Astro Hulk.
I found a farily cool article about Eye of the Storm (V 5.12, 12 pitches, 1500 feet) but no topo....
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/newswire-incredible-hulk-davis
Airstream did get a 2nd ascent by Nic Sellars and Tom Briggs.
From the MoonBlog:
Nic Sellars and Tom Briggs have just returned from a trad climbing trip in the states where amongst other things they made the 2nd ascent of a classic Peter Croft route called Airstream. Nic sent in this report.
"Just got back to Blighty after a fab month long trip to the states to climb in the High Sierras on an Alpine rock trip. Tom Briggs and I managed to make the 2nd ascent of Airsteam, a 12 pitch Peter Croft route on a crag called The Incredible Hulk. The route comprised numerous pitches of 5.11 (E4 ish) up to the crux pitches of 512c (7b+), 513b (7c+), 512c. We managed to on-sight all pitches except the crux pitch which managed to squeeze in all it's difficulty into about 15 ft of slippery groove technical shinaniggins. I red-pointed this by the skin of my teeth as I was fairly trashed by the climb up to this point. All in all we took 12 hours from bivvi to bivvi. The next day we quested down to a very hot and sweaty Bishop to contratulate Peter on his route with some beers (and meet up with a real US role model). Hope the photo attachment arrives in a useable state."
Still looking for more Hulk info!!
 Luke
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thierry
Sport climber
Aix en Provence / FRANCE
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hello all from France
please, where are these climbs ?
first time,I heard about it.
2 months left before coming.....stil training but it begin to turn pretty warm here.
thierry
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Thierry,
USA
California
East Side of Sierra Nevada Mountain Range
Highway 395
Near Town of Bridgeport, ca
On a "Mountain" called the Incredible Hulk
A few/several(depending on your load and fitness) hours walk into the backcountry. Some go car to car in LONG days, most camp out and enjoy the mountains.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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There goes the neighborhood.
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stella
climber
cali
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e-mail me and i'll try to get you a topo to astro hulk. pretty sure my friend has a copy of it.
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COD
climber
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Jul 20, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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Looking for some HULK topos as well and perhaps a partner (mine just got injured) Anyone got topos for Eye of the Storm or Astro Hulk. I'd love to do Venturi Effect and try Airstream. Will be there starting Aug 15th.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jul 20, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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good topo finding effort cultureshock.
nice gems, cool to see topos of those routes, haven't gotten out there yet, looks so good....
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 20, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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Why you need topo?
The first ascent party didn't have topo ......
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2009 - 07:14am PT
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Werner's kinda right, especially on the Hulk. If you go up there, you'll see cracks and corners running bottom to top...they're all equipped at this point, choose the nicest looking line and head up, and as mentioned, its all in the new version of the fine literary guidebook from Secor, no topos allowed. But there's a picture with the lines drawn in...it looks like a picture without the lines drawn in.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Aug 16, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
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Does this overlay look about right?
What else is up there?
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Wildmotor
climber
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Aug 24, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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The COD and I did a link-up of Trade Winds (the first five pitches) to Astro Hulk and it was really fun! This was in order to avoid the 5.12 pitches on Trade Winds because I'm not a 5.12 climber. Our link-up was a good alternative to Positive Vibes for 5.11 climbers, although there was quite a bit of kitty litter and runout at the top of Astro Hulk so fledgling 5.11 leaders (like me) would be a bit spooked. The COD called it "heady" but had no trouble with it, and I found it fun to follow.
On the topo we had, there was a fixed piton on a 5.10 section of Astro Hulk, which I did encounter while leading the pitch. However, it fell out in my hand when I clipped it so it's not there any more! Luckily, that section was well-protected by a blue alien.
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SamP
Trad climber
Tuolumne Meadows
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You can find topos for the Venturi and Astro-Hulk at Mountainproject. Having a hard time finding one for Eye of the Storm though.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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A few historical notes:
On the FA of Positive Vibration, we got up to the terrace by going up the third class below the Red Dihedral, stepping over onto Tradewinds at around P2, and following that line up to the terrace to access the upper pitches.
We initially did that start in '77, when we did a route that follows Astrohulk above the terrace for several pitches, but near the top we pendulumed left into a left facing dihedral (visible in Cultureshock's first image, just below the skyline, left of the last pitch of Astohulk). We supposed that Greg Donaldson's party, on the very first ascent of the wall, started as per the standard start to PV, did a few pitches on Astrohulk, then swung to the right and eventually finished up near the top of the Red Dihedral. This inference is based on Donaldson's description and the fact that we found a sling set up for a pendulum on Astrohulk a few pitches above the terrace.
Also, on the FA of Polish Route, we rapped off the back after we reached the ridge. Brutus and Pat Brennan finished it to the summit years later. That's a good long route.
Alpine and Cultureshock, nice work on those phototopos.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Hulk Bump!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 30, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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no no no, you say it like this.... "HULK SMASH!"
:)
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Jun 30, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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How Are the conditions after this last storm? I'm heading out there the 8-10 for the red di. Should I cart in snowshoes/skis/axe-crampon ?
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
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No first hand beta here but driving past the Sawtooth ridge the other day, looking up towards the Matterhorn and there was a LOT of snow.
I'm wondering what conditions would be like for high country approaches myself. I think we might be approaching a crappy scenario within the next few days where there is still a lot of snow but it's not getting cold enough for solid freezes at night, so skis or snowshoes might be required on the snow. BUT, the snow can start pretty far from the trailhead so you might have to hump that stuff awhile before you need it. And then when you get to it, you might not even need it.
Any thoughts from the wiser Sierra men and women?
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NYZoo
Trad climber
Gunks
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Hulk Bump for conditions.... has anyone been up there?
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Cultureshock said he was heading out there this last weekend so I'd check in with him or wait till he updates the thread
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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I'll have photos up later tonight.
The gist is that there is a TON of snow. The normal bivy sites near the "creek" are under 10 feet of snow. You have to hike up canyon about another 10-15 minutes to find running water (go up and right and follow your ears).
Everyone this past weekend camped around the trees.
There were 5 parties up there from Saturday-> Monday. Saw people on Sunspot, Positive Vibes, Red Dihedral (two groups) and Bee Line.
Make sure to get your permits. Not only is it the right thing to do but we saw a ranger on the hike in. He was very nice and possibly removing fire rings or doing trail work. I was informed at the rangers station that NO FIRES are allowed in Little Slide Canyon.
Weather was WARM. This meant the snow was very soft (easy to hike up, slide down).
From the big trail take the down stream of the two creek crossings. The one seen in the Kate and Brittany post is totally underwater! The logs are pretty easy to cross.
Extra dry socks or Gaiters are suggested due to all the snow. I'm a big fan of snow travel with trekking poles and never ended up using the ice axe we brought.
Go for it!
Luke
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
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Looking back at little slide canyon. Parts of this were steep, but easily doable in soft snow.
There was a ton of snow over the normal bivy area. In addition the creek that usually runs was under many feet of snow. Inorder to get water I hiked up the left of the two drainage/gulleys in the photo. A bit out of the way but a good water source.
The snow field goes all the way up to the base but this doesn't affect any of the routes. There is snow in the descent gully which will require kicking steps. This should be easy when the snow is soft.
Go have fun!
Luke
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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nice stuff Luke.....looks like a great time. Thanks for posting.
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kirkadirka
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Lots of snow still on the backside after hitting the ridge on Positive Vibes last week. Be prepared to do some climbing through snow and wet rock for the ridge traverse and final two pitches to the summit.
I did the entire approach in sandals.
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
los angeles
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Thanks all for the great photos and conditions reports.
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superbum
Ice climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
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Hulk SMASH!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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Saw and heard of a lot of traffic on Venturi Effect this summer...
Hopefully climbers are being careful of loving the Hulk to death!
Remember to leave no trace!
Luke
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Oct 28, 2011 - 08:10am PT
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Glad there's some interest in this. The only reason this topo hasn't been out there is sheer laziness.
This is a great line - one of my favorites.
The timing is a bit off (being november) but here it is nonetheless.
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Oct 28, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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By the way, those photo topos look good, but the line representing Venturi is a bit off. The first pitch goes left out the undercling to a stance out on the triangular slab, not right (to the corner) like those lines you guys drew in.
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:11am PT
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HULK SMASH!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:46am PT
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Would be awesome if someone created a route map (like the ones The Alpine and cultureshock posted) of all routes on it including beeline polish route and all other established lines...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Vitaliy,
I just updated my hulk beta page and it should have just about everything you need to climb at the Hulk. I've got topos of most routes and I'm working on another route map (I even grabbed your photo of the Solar Flare Topo). If you have an questions/comments/corrections let me know.
Tons of hulk beta:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/07/incredible-hulk-101-tips-tricks-and-beta/
Here's the latest version of the my Hulk photo topo. Not even halfway done. I'll try to put some more time into it.
Orange - Sunspot
Pink - Positive Vibrations
Blue - Airstream (work in progress)
Green - Ventauri Effect
Yellow - Tradewinds
Purple - Eye of the Storm
Enjoy,
Luke
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Great page Luke. Do you know if there are any other routes on the right side of the Hulk aside from yours, Fallen Leaf, Fallen Dihedral, RD, and Beeline?
As I understand Fallen Leaf goes up the big dihedral which is just to the left of the crack system that is the Beeline?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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I have that book. Wanted to see if there is something that was not included in it. I have to go back and do Beeline (last year got a bit off route and than stormed off), and want to try the Polish Route if I get ballsy this year. Looks fantastic.
Again thanks for the nice outline on your blog. I saw you climbed with Konstantin. Guy is a character. His facebook photo is a hall of fame type material.
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Luke you forgot the Nalazak 5.13- ?! its a variation to the Venturi Effect, starts at the belay of the second pitch of Venturi and goes for 70 meters to the rap anchor just below the main ledge. My friend Jake and I made the first ascent of this massive pitch last year and would love for someone to repeat it!
Its the crack/corner above the second pitch of Venturi, goes up to a small roof and into an overhang section into the corner/crack just right of the chimney pitch on Positive. Then it pulls onto the arete for the final 11+ section of the pitch. Mostly thin gear and many draws and slings , like 23 of them. 80 meter rope is better than a 70 unless the belayer wants to simul the first part.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Awesome! I'm happy to add your line! A while back I had seen some chalk and a bolt to between PV and Venturi and was wondering what the project was. It looked like some wild stemming to a crazy roof. Sweet!
Perhaps you can give me some beta on BlowHard since you were just up there.. I've got a vague idea of where it goes. Did you have a topo?
Have you been on all the routes now? I think I saw you working on Airstream a year or two back. How did that go?
Luke
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Blowhard is 7 pitches, the rack is tiny cams to 3 camalot, doubles to 2 if you wish. 80 meter or two ropes to rappel the route. It starts in the crack/corner just left of the Polish route.
Airstream has not gone down for me yet.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
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Wicked! In between Solar Flare and Airstream there is a variation called Solar Burn- don't know alot about it- but it takes the obvious splitter on the wall below the sunspot. Yeah!
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:49am PT
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Has anyone out there done Eye of the Storm? I only know if one repeat in 5 years...and that was with Brent and Andy Puhvel (Brent put it up with me).
Would love some feedback.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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What's the crux pitch on it like? I'd love to check it out, but a bit intimidated. Is it possible to bail or pull through on gear at the crux? I'm assuming the crux of the route is in one of the pictures in the alpinist article.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Mar 14, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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Inspiring!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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Hi Nils-
Great job setting up that route! I climbed the first 3 or 4 pitches with John Scott in 2008 or so. Lightning chased us away. Great climbing. Some photos linked below.
Incredible Hulk > Eye of the Storm
Cheers, Brian
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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I am so effing psyched to get back out to the hulk this season!!
Need to redpoint Tradewinds (that crux section felt like 5.12- but maybe cuz its the 8th pitch), need to check out Lost In The Sun. Still curious about Solar Burn. After that there are only 12+ routes... which will be a few more years. I'll climb PV, SS, Polish, and TW over and over again though :D
Anyone that wants to go out there in late April hit me up. My partner is having knee surgery.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Mar 15, 2013 - 02:31am PT
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@ Brian Biega
That's really great how you've put the routes on that photo, Brian. Is that really the start of Positive Vibes? We started up the cracks to the right. It was covered in chalk.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 06:10am PT
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Hi Clint-
Hope all is well! I have updated the link/links above.
Will have to get back out climbing sometime!
Hi jaaan- I guess there are a few ways to get up there... I have not been up there for a few years. Need to go again soon.
Cheers, Brian
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 08:47am PT
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Yo Nils. Matt and I did Eye a few years back. Was awesome! I fell once on the crux and Matt onsighted. I found a pitch or two leading to the crux a bit scary.
On a different note, Lucho and I would love for someone to repeat our route Nalazak which is mentioned above. Apparently we didn't spray enough and no one else has enjoyed it yet, that we know of. It's really good. It's also pretty sheltered from the winds, and only a pitch up...a good option for those days when the weather is less than ideal or you're too relaxed to worry about summiting.
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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
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