Dear Climbers working the Venturi Effect.


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A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 19, 2011 - 02:38am PT
Dear Rock Climbers Recently on the Venturi Effect,

I commend your efforts of trying to rock climb the Venturi Effect. YOu are sure to add a sweet sendto your 8a account. I understand this is a hard route. However, there are other rock climbers Out there who would like to try to climb this wonderful route, in the mountains, without the step by step move by move tick mark beta. A tick or two on a crux is an understandable thing, unfortunately you have grafittied the route from bottom to top with massive chalky ticks. You have ruined and degraded the rock climbing experience for those of us who believe in true and pure onsite rock climbing experices. Regardless of the route difficulty, If you require that many tick marks to succeed (literally every move of every pitch) then you are probably nOt good enough in the first place.. Save your thousands of ticks for the gym, keep them out of the mountains.


Social climber
Aug 19, 2011 - 02:42am PT

Waiting for curmudgeon end-of-the-world speeches to commence in 5.... 4.....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 19, 2011 - 02:47am PT
there are no other rocks to climb on out there?
rocks with no tickmarks?
I'm sure there are... and it's fun to go find them... and you can even keep it secret that you've been out playing with them, we won't hold it against you.

have fun.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 19, 2011 - 02:49am PT
You may want to consider buying a whisk broom, or a soft scrub brush. They're totally dab for removing chalk, grit, and other things. If you want, you can practice on something like the Nose of El Capitan. A real public service, removing all those unsightly tick marks.

Boulder climber
Aug 19, 2011 - 02:53am PT
You have ruined ... the rock climbing experience for those of us who believe in true and pure ... rock climbing.
Then stfu and go find something else to climb.

Social climber
Aug 19, 2011 - 02:58am PT
This would be more rad with pixxxx!

Hopefully rain will wash it out? The person that would do that would probably be someone that is not used to the sierra ethic, maybe a pro climber doing a video shoot or something. They will wash away soon, too bad it bummed you out. The whole "climb something else" discussion doesn't really work when you hike all the way out there for a route of that size/difficulty, likely weeks of training for it specifically and psych/momentum.

Trip report? Sendage? Do something else while waiting for chalk to disintegrate?

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 19, 2011 - 03:07am PT
I vote that tick marks all over that route is LAME.
The go climb something else argument is weak too if that's the route this guy was preppin' for.
I'll probably never climb that route, but if I showed up and Red Dihedral was covered in ticks the whole way up, I'd be pissed too.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 19, 2011 - 03:25am PT
was the climb just too easy for you with the ticks?

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 19, 2011 - 03:34am PT
The person that would do that would probably be someone that is not used to the sierra ethic...

Not spewing tick marks is a 'Sierra ethic' now? And it's acceptable every where else? That is news...
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 19, 2011 - 03:55am PT
I have a tick mark on my belly.

It's been there ever since I unscrewed the tick during a meal at the Foul Squeezin's in Yos. I then crushed the bug with a spoon after counting to make sure all it's legs were still with it.

This provided much entertainment for the surrounding tables...

tinker b

the commonwealth
Aug 19, 2011 - 07:37am PT
i think i know the culprit. he lives on the eastside and has his own ethic. he is a good guy, but has just thought things out differently the most people who live in the mountains. next time i see him i will give him sh#t, but in a good hearted way. i think that tick marks are lame it stops people from really getting to know the rock, looking for the man made marks instead of getting in tune with what is already there. i agree that you shouldn't have to find another route. tick marks are annoying at the boulders, but in an alpine setting it is unexceptable. especially as these are, everywhere.

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Aug 19, 2011 - 08:18am PT
when the pointer finger dies,
accusations have no vector toom follow.

Trad climber
East Coast US
Aug 19, 2011 - 10:32am PT
I wish I had photos, but I have found significant tick marks on 5.7 cruxes in the Gunks. Guides pointing the way for their chubby clientele? Over zealous gym climbers out in the sun for a day? Bigfoot?

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 19, 2011 - 10:48am PT
They tell me that all indoor gym routes are entirely marked (ticked) so it's no surprise that the practice has migrated outdoors. Fortunately, chalk is not permanent.

Trad climber
Washington DC
Aug 19, 2011 - 11:02am PT
not going to get into the tics but this vid is really cool. Been up there a few times, (not this route), it is such a sweet place.!

Trad climber
East Coast
Aug 19, 2011 - 11:08am PT
Photoshop is really good for removing tickmarks.

Aug 19, 2011 - 11:59am PT
Thanks for the link martygarrison. Awesome video.

Croft strolling unroped on the tiny, slanting summit at about the 1:40 mark. Yikes!!

Social climber
Aug 19, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
And it's acceptable every where else?

Nope. Don't be hatin' son, you know what I meant.

Aug 19, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
I hate tick marks.

They're fuking lame and stupid.

People that tick a whole crux section are blind.

Buy some fuking glasses.

And if you have to tick mark in the Sierras you're even lamer .....


Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Aug 19, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
At least use pretty colored tape. ;^)
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