comments on rope solo using Edelrid Eddy?

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mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 20, 2009 - 10:16am PT
I have seen healyje's posts. Maybe you have something to add? Anyone else have comments/experiences? My plan is to attach to the belay loop using a single steel locking oval biner, with a 10.2 rope.

I know, I know, I'm gonna die.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jun 20, 2009 - 10:29am PT
Besides certain doom, maybe back up the loop with a length of webbing? I back mine up..........just in case.
Dapper Dan

climber
Menlo Park
Jun 20, 2009 - 11:08am PT
Are you talking about top rope soloing or rope soloing while leading ?
adatesman

Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
Jun 20, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
I found his system to work fairly well. I don't remember if he makes mention of stacking the rope in a pack and running it over your shoulder, but that makes it feed much, much better than having the free end hang.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 20, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
You definitely don't want the free end hanging for free climbing. I stack mine in a [url="http://metoliusclimbing.com/porta-cord.html" target"new"]Metolius Portacord[/url] pack that has been modified a bit. I had the rope tarp cut down to just a V-gusset and sewn back on the opposite side of the zipper turning the pack into a rope bucket; added gear sling to both sides that are rigged like the [url="http://metoliusclimbing.com/big_wall_gear_sling.html" target="new"]Metolius 'Big Wall' gear sling[/url]; switched the top flap from one center buckle to two side buckles; ordered one of the Metolius Haul bag chest straps to add to it; added a two inch waist belt; and last added a hang loop to the inside top of the pack to hang it between pitches to stack the rope. I'll take some pics when I get a chance.

I used to use a Go-lite pack which already had most of those features but it got too beat up in Red Rocks, hence the switch.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 20, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
I'll take some pics when I get a chance.

That would be good, because I got pretty lost in your written description.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2009 - 02:29am PT
This is for leading, for TRing I use a minitraxion. When leading I carry the rope up with me, following healyje's system. I guess I will throw in a sling backup, it couldn't hurt. I don't think it could help, though, since it's only insurance against a steel biner breaking, which I'm not worried about.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 21, 2009 - 04:09am PT












mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2009 - 03:52am PT
Thanks for the info healyje. I'll report back with my impressions on the Eddy, hopefully I'll get to try it out on Thursday.

What are you doing with my cat, and how did you get him to loose weight?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
Apple Valley, California
Jun 22, 2009 - 11:26am PT
bump
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 22, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
That's Zoebug and she's just got her 'thin side' to the camera, she's really pretty fat.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Jun 22, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
I've asked this on similar threads before, but never gotten an answer. If carrying the rope in a pack (sounds like a good idea to me) how do you (or DO YOU) tie in a back up knot?

I use a silent partner myself and it has always worked when needed, but I'd be real hesitant to put 100% faith in that thing grabbing every time.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 22, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
I don't, but that's my own personal choice. I move relatively fast when climbing, particularly when roped soloing, and the hassle involved simply represents too much risk from my perspective. There are times such as doing an FA or on hard lines where I know there are awkward moves where I'll clove a backup for a particular move or two, but that's it. I've also grabbed the free end of the rope to lock it up short in some falls, but of course you can't count on being able to do that. It's definitely a personal decision.

In aid climbing on the other hand, I use a backup knot.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 22, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
I use a rig close to Healy's, a grigri with a mod pack. Same over the shoulder action. If you puddle the rope carefully you can tie a few knots, when they come up to the shoulder you undo them. Flaking out ten feet at a time let's you gage when the knots are coming so you don't screw yourself. Works great, smooth action and no rope hanging down from the harness.

John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 22, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
Thanks for making the effort to post up the pics.. looks like a nice setup.

I use an old day pack, nothing flash, for free climbing with a silent partner but after seeing your set up it might be time to get the sewing machine out!
Wallwombat

Trad climber
Australia
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:34am PT
Would it be safer to attach with a steel D shaped Maillon, that can handle cross loading?

That's what I use with my modded GriGri.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:38am PT
I also used a mallion rapide back when I used a modded (tab removed) grigri, but they won't work with the Eddy due to it's 'clamshell' design - way too thick. I'm pretty comfortable with the setup shown. I chose it because I'd rather have the biner break and be backed up by the sling then use a steel biner that might break the Eddy's shell leaving no backup. Also as a side note, I use an unmodded grigri for aid soloing.
CClarke

climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 09:37am PT
Hi rockermike-

When I use a backpack and a silent partner, I estimate the length of the pitch and, as I stack the rope in the pack, I tie overhand knots every 10-15 feet from that point to the end tied to me. I don't use a biner on the shoulder so they don't get hung up there and they seem to pull out of the pack with no problems. When I get high enough that the first knot would arrest a fall, I start clippin them to a locker on a sling girth hitched to my belay loop so they hang out of the way of the SP. I use two lockers and, when a backup knot gets close, I pull out rope until I can clip the next knot before undoing the previous one. It goes pretty smoothly once you've done it a few times and the small loop hanging down hasn't really caused any issues yet but you have to pay attention to it so it doesn't get hung on anything.

Usually I don't use a backpack with the rope but it has its place and it's not really any more of a hassle than a rope bag at the belay and it's nice to know your rope isn't going to get stuck off to the side if the wind blows it over a flake or something.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:48am PT
Rope solo = Massive PITA...

You're better off bringing your soloing up to match your climbing ability..
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 23, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
Sometimes I do both, rope solo a pitch and then free solo an easy one - depends on the pitch and route as to whether it's worth deploying the rope...
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