comments on rope solo using Edelrid Eddy?

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mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 20, 2009 - 10:16am PT
I have seen healyje's posts. Maybe you have something to add? Anyone else have comments/experiences? My plan is to attach to the belay loop using a single steel locking oval biner, with a 10.2 rope.

I know, I know, I'm gonna die.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jun 20, 2009 - 10:29am PT
Besides certain doom, maybe back up the loop with a length of webbing? I back mine up..........just in case.
Dapper Dan

climber
Menlo Park
Jun 20, 2009 - 11:08am PT
Are you talking about top rope soloing or rope soloing while leading ?
adatesman

Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
Jun 20, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
I found his system to work fairly well. I don't remember if he makes mention of stacking the rope in a pack and running it over your shoulder, but that makes it feed much, much better than having the free end hang.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 20, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
You definitely don't want the free end hanging for free climbing. I stack mine in a [url="http://metoliusclimbing.com/porta-cord.html" target"new"]Metolius Portacord[/url] pack that has been modified a bit. I had the rope tarp cut down to just a V-gusset and sewn back on the opposite side of the zipper turning the pack into a rope bucket; added gear sling to both sides that are rigged like the [url="http://metoliusclimbing.com/big_wall_gear_sling.html" target="new"]Metolius 'Big Wall' gear sling[/url]; switched the top flap from one center buckle to two side buckles; ordered one of the Metolius Haul bag chest straps to add to it; added a two inch waist belt; and last added a hang loop to the inside top of the pack to hang it between pitches to stack the rope. I'll take some pics when I get a chance.

I used to use a Go-lite pack which already had most of those features but it got too beat up in Red Rocks, hence the switch.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 20, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
I'll take some pics when I get a chance.

That would be good, because I got pretty lost in your written description.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2009 - 02:29am PT
This is for leading, for TRing I use a minitraxion. When leading I carry the rope up with me, following healyje's system. I guess I will throw in a sling backup, it couldn't hurt. I don't think it could help, though, since it's only insurance against a steel biner breaking, which I'm not worried about.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 21, 2009 - 04:09am PT
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2009 - 03:52am PT
Thanks for the info healyje. I'll report back with my impressions on the Eddy, hopefully I'll get to try it out on Thursday.

What are you doing with my cat, and how did you get him to loose weight?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 22, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
That's Zoebug and she's just got her 'thin side' to the camera, she's really pretty fat.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Jun 22, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
I've asked this on similar threads before, but never gotten an answer. If carrying the rope in a pack (sounds like a good idea to me) how do you (or DO YOU) tie in a back up knot?

I use a silent partner myself and it has always worked when needed, but I'd be real hesitant to put 100% faith in that thing grabbing every time.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 22, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
I don't, but that's my own personal choice. I move relatively fast when climbing, particularly when roped soloing, and the hassle involved simply represents too much risk from my perspective. There are times such as doing an FA or on hard lines where I know there are awkward moves where I'll clove a backup for a particular move or two, but that's it. I've also grabbed the free end of the rope to lock it up short in some falls, but of course you can't count on being able to do that. It's definitely a personal decision.

In aid climbing on the other hand, I use a backup knot.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 22, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
I use a rig close to Healy's, a grigri with a mod pack. Same over the shoulder action. If you puddle the rope carefully you can tie a few knots, when they come up to the shoulder you undo them. Flaking out ten feet at a time let's you gage when the knots are coming so you don't screw yourself. Works great, smooth action and no rope hanging down from the harness.

John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 22, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
Thanks for making the effort to post up the pics.. looks like a nice setup.

I use an old day pack, nothing flash, for free climbing with a silent partner but after seeing your set up it might be time to get the sewing machine out!
Wallwombat

Trad climber
Australia
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:34am PT
Would it be safer to attach with a steel D shaped Maillon, that can handle cross loading?

That's what I use with my modded GriGri.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:38am PT
I also used a mallion rapide back when I used a modded (tab removed) grigri, but they won't work with the Eddy due to it's 'clamshell' design - way too thick. I'm pretty comfortable with the setup shown. I chose it because I'd rather have the biner break and be backed up by the sling then use a steel biner that might break the Eddy's shell leaving no backup. Also as a side note, I use an unmodded grigri for aid soloing.
CClarke

climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 09:37am PT
Hi rockermike-

When I use a backpack and a silent partner, I estimate the length of the pitch and, as I stack the rope in the pack, I tie overhand knots every 10-15 feet from that point to the end tied to me. I don't use a biner on the shoulder so they don't get hung up there and they seem to pull out of the pack with no problems. When I get high enough that the first knot would arrest a fall, I start clippin them to a locker on a sling girth hitched to my belay loop so they hang out of the way of the SP. I use two lockers and, when a backup knot gets close, I pull out rope until I can clip the next knot before undoing the previous one. It goes pretty smoothly once you've done it a few times and the small loop hanging down hasn't really caused any issues yet but you have to pay attention to it so it doesn't get hung on anything.

Usually I don't use a backpack with the rope but it has its place and it's not really any more of a hassle than a rope bag at the belay and it's nice to know your rope isn't going to get stuck off to the side if the wind blows it over a flake or something.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:48am PT
Rope solo = Massive PITA...

You're better off bringing your soloing up to match your climbing ability..
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 23, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
Sometimes I do both, rope solo a pitch and then free solo an easy one - depends on the pitch and route as to whether it's worth deploying the rope...
Double D

climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
That looks like a pretty clean set up, except the lack of back up knots. I'm always concerned about any webbing near the feed in of the rope as it can get pulled in by the rope and hinder the locking cam. But yours looks like it's not going to get tangled.

I use pretty much the same system except with my own modified pack and I use 2-3 backup knots by simply running a short sling around my harness near the gear loops with a smooth-gate locking biner and clove hitch knots. It's no problem to un-hitch it with one hand, especially if you orient the gate opening correctly. I also tie in the end of the rope to my back loop with a webbing strand running around to my front rap loop (my BD harness doesn't make the trail-line loop strong enough, hence the back up).

Be safe out there.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Yes, it's very unlikely the short Mammut sling would ever engage with the rope. Sort of have to see the setup first hand. I have sometimes thought about adding a prusik knot to the mix for brief stretches as a backup but have never gotten around to testing it. Again, the knot thing is personal preference, to me it presents a real lousy cost/benefit ratio, but that's just me.
Double D

climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
I use long pursik knots for routes that don't have bottom belays and to prevent rope drag, or rather snaking down the system and then drag up high on a pitch. Just make sure the pursik is plenty long so you don't end up short-roping yourself.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2009 - 04:47am PT
I gave the Eddy a try yesterday, and I don't like the vibe I get from it. If something were to press against the cam and prevent it from coming out, the device would not lock. Maybe that's a low probability scenario, but I don't think it can be ruled out. I'll stick with the clove hitch, I think.
jbar

Social climber
urasymptote
Jun 29, 2009 - 04:53am PT
DD - I started out using prusik knots to see if I could get the groove of solo. If I fixed the pitch and top rope soloed it I always had a bad feeling about dragging the webbing up the rope over and over. I switched to a ushba and now to a solo aid. Not sure how I like the solo aid yet.
phillygoat

climber
portland,
Jun 29, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Hey Healyje,

If you would just sport climb during the falcon closure at Beacon, it might keep that gut in check!!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jun 29, 2009 - 11:02am PT
Thats right, tried to get Healyjoe to join us and check out some other local crags other then Beacon, but he won't drive east! Never see him at Ozone either. He loves that Beacon Rock.
WBraun

climber
Jun 29, 2009 - 11:41am PT
Cool setup Joe.

If someone finds a setup that works for them and they are comfortable with it then it's great.

Thanks for sharing your system Joe .....
Double D

climber
Jun 29, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
" I started out using pursik knots to see if I could get the groove of solo"

I wasn't referring to using pursiks for a belay device, rather a mid-climb back-up anchor or used to take out the rope drag high up on a pitch. The pursik knot simply holds the rope taut. The key is to have a very long pursik knot so that the load goes to your main anchor first, thus avoiding getting short-roped into a high fall-factor situation.

I would be petrified using a pursik for a belay device. I just use a grigri.



It's funny, Bridwell called yesterday and for some reason we spoke of roped soloing. He was once asked to elaborate on a good system and his reply was, "I've got a great system, I have friends!" He went on to embelish the virtues of fellowship and teamwork.

Be safe!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 29, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
I still think that roped soloing skills are a necessary adjunct to a skilled leader's toolbag.

What happens if your partner gets hurt and soloing for help is the best course?
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Jun 29, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
Good point, but if your partner gets hurt, you probably aren't going to have any nifty rope-solo setup on your harness.

So better practice that clove hitch (and don't fall with your thumb in the knot).
crackfiend

climber
Jun 29, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
Good point Ron. Last summer on the reg on half dome our lead line got caught in a rope eating crack and we had to chop it almost dead in the middle. we then had two lead lines. on the longer pitches I would lead out 100 feet or so and then tie the ropes together and rope solo the the anchor. saved a bunch of bs midpont anchors and we still cruised at a good pace.
couchmaster

climber
Jun 29, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
Good point, but if your partner gets hurt, you probably aren't going to have any nifty rope-solo setup on your harness.

healyje hiked in and rope soloed up and unstuck a rope at like 3 am for some freezing climbers with a stuck rope in Vegas last year. I suspect he'd figure it out if his partner got stuck and he had to make do.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 29, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
McReel - good for you for checking it out. As Werner suggests, I think roped soloing is all about figuring out what works for you. I put out there what I do, but make no claims of any kind about it other than it works for me. Could something theoretically hit the cam tab surface - unlikely, but I suppose so - but, I put the risk of that way below other normal objective hazards in climbing such as rockfall or lightning. I personally wouldn't think twice about it, but again, that's just me.

Philly and studly - naw, I just can't get into spurt climbing, I'd rather just TR, focus on the movement, and not be bothered by all the annoying clips if I'm going to forego placing gear. Beacon will be open soon enough.

I've been roped soloing with one system or another since '75 and I agree with Ron that it's a very good skill and mindset to have relative to needing to perform in the case of an injured partner. The 'system' of choice for me is more a matter of convenience and speed; as Couchmaster notes, if I really had to, I could do it with a single non-locking carabiner in an emergency.
Febs

Trad climber
Northern Italy
Aug 19, 2016 - 02:14am PT
Her, resurrecting old thread.

By chance, did anybody find a backpack that suits well this setup?

All those customizations are really out of my skills (and will).

thanks!
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 19, 2016 - 03:46am PT
Rope solo & Selfie shot.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Aug 19, 2016 - 04:15am PT
Healy,

thoughtful, with good creative fixes for all the entanglements encountered while doing roped climbing alone.

Anyone notice how pleasant this thread has been without DMT's long winded standoffs?
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 19, 2016 - 09:55am PT
Left leg loop is twisted. Can you trust a guy who incorrectly puts on his harness. ;)
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2016 - 11:09am PT
With the bump, I notice that my last post regarding the eddy was not favorable. Since that post, I used the eddy quite a lot for rope solo, for several years. Once I got used to it, I found it to work very well.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 19, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
McReel, yeah, I was a tad dubious at first because I thought the Eddy sucked for belaying and rappelling (and still do), but oddly enough it works well for rope soloing due to the fact the rope threads the device opposite a grigri. Glad it worked out for you.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 15, 2017 - 05:20am PT
Do you play that piano?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 15, 2017 - 10:48am PT
Huh?
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Apr 15, 2017 - 11:25am PT
or wail a solo sax?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 15, 2017 - 11:47pm PT
I don't wail when solo, I do quietly whimper occasionally - or at least did once today...

[ Ah, the piano in the picture background - no, wife and daughter. Dabble with guitar occasionally, but not much of a musician. Also had a lovely old bass clarinet for awhile, but finally sold that to someone actually worthy of it. ]
Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic
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