El Cap fixing partner wanted immediately!

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 15, 2009 - 07:17pm PT
I'd love to Pete, but unfortunately school and all prevent me
from being there. Plus, I don't know if I'd wanna go down.
Blast it and send lots of pics!!!!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 15, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
The ropeman works one handed after a bit of trial and error. You need to get good at grabbing that little wire with the thumb and fore finger while holding the biner w/ the rest of your hand. Works slick once you get it wired. much cheaper!! and light.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Jun 15, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
I've thought about checking out the ropeman for solo TR... My current setup works super awesome, but like to always keep an open mind.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
Jun 15, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
I bet you could wrap a blob of tape around the swage on the little wire to make it easier....
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
Eric - check yer email, eh?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 15, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
Ropeman not designed to catch falls so probobly not good for TR. Works good for emergency hauling , adjustable daisy, emergency jugging etc.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
The Ropeman is the Secret Trick of Yosemite simul-climbers...
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 15, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
So you need a belayer and Jug Monkey for Thursday and Friday ?
I might be able to swing it, let me know Pete. I'm Knott up for leading any A4 pitches this week, but I can hang out on the ledge and belay you for the day.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
Mark - that would be perfect! Please check your email, mate.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
"Ropeman not designed to catch falls so probobly not good for TR. Works good for emergency hauling , adjustable daisy, emergency jugging etc."

Neither are most of the other devices being used for solo TR (or solo aid, for that matter). Funny that the devices actually designed to catch falls are rarely used. The list of "not designed to catch falls" solo TR devices would include:

Petzl Minitraxion and Microscender (my setup), the Yates Rocker, Wild Country Ropeman, and the Ushba Basic. I could go on... Point is, most of the devices that most people use are not designed to catch a fall.

One of the things that makes some of these devices favorites for people is the fact that they (as you said) "works good for emergency hauling", which is important to a lot of valley climbers. One of the things that makes the ropeman interesting is that it doesn't have sharp teeth like an ascender.

Pete is right on, as far as the ropeman being awesome for simul climbing.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 16, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
Mine is old so it does have the sharp teeth though mine are now dull. Not shoer if it slides as easy as the petzle?? It does work totally awsome for an adjustable daisy!
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Jun 16, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
funny. i'm getting together all my shenanigans and was thinking "damn, gotta buy yet another set of thos damn useful adjustable daisies" and "what the hell am gonna do with old ushba hauler i never use?".......

i've used the ropemen in the past for the same purpose and also a kong piece that work like the adjustable fifi but was beefier. hard to give yourself slack while under any tension, though.

see yall soon.

Zak
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Jun 16, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
I'm going to try that setup with a microcender, thanks Kate.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Jun 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
so do you wear a helmet on the approach?
i did not here one projectile the whole time i was dingin round the nose, but i saw a lot of small rocks.

Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jun 16, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
Is el Cap fixed yet?
waltereo

climber
Jun 17, 2009 - 12:49am PT
Could you post some pictures of your rig ?

Thx
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 17, 2009 - 01:17am PT
El Cap was fixed today using Q-tips and tire irons. Damn fine job they did, looks as good as ever.

heh
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 17, 2009 - 07:06am PT
Zac, Agreed that It is tricky to give yourself slack but heck I think its tricky with my metelious rig as well. The ropeman reels it in 100 times better than the metelious Adg rig and you can give slack once you get a routine down.

If there was a rig that released easier and was still small and light I would be all for it. not shure that i would shell out $100 bucks though!
Holdplease2

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Jun 17, 2009 - 10:19am PT
Hey Guys:

One thing I like about the Ushba thing is that there aren't any teeth that catch or have to be fully removed from the rope to release slack. This is especially nice when you are standing in your second steps and have to give yourself a little slack. In this case, you can reach down with one hand and touch the camming lever and it pays out smoothly, maintaining a little friction so you don't launch, just like a grigri.

We'll post some pics when we get done climbing, as we don't have any now. There is a gadget on Ebay from the "Gear4climbing" people which seems to work a lot like the Ushba ascender and might be a more cost effective option. I'm going to give the Ropeman with the grooves, rather than the teeth a try as well and let you know how it goes.

We fixed one pitch, what is that then, like 1600 to go. Shouldn't take long...

:)

-Kate.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
Mark? Paging Mark?!

{crickets}

I'm heading up to the crag shortly for a day of fixing today [Wednesday] but I am still looking for a partner[s] on Thursday and Friday. So if you're interested in getting out and having fun, learning stuff, fixing a few pitches and drinking a couple beers, please email me asap.

Cheers,
Pete
Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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