working of the first free ascent of Mescalito


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Jun 14, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
I remember Eddie Mo taking a 60 foot zipper on pitch original Harding rivet had sheared...and an original Harding rivet HELD the fall! Thin sh*t to free!

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 07:47am PT
Nikon just put a bunch of photos up on its site about this climb

my career as a professional belayer is really starting to take off!

Trad climber
Aug 14, 2009 - 07:57am PT
Really nice! Thanks for the heads up!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 14, 2009 - 07:58am PT
A ten year project, hmmmm....I guess that leaves me out.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 14, 2009 - 08:02am PT
Completely amazing to me.

Trad climber
Aug 14, 2009 - 09:48am PT
Holy schit! Amazing!

Trad climber
Aug 14, 2009 - 10:01am PT
Chris McNamera, belayer to the stars!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 14, 2009 - 11:48am PT
It looks kinda steep and smooth up there in places!

(photo by Corey Rich)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 14, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
I would pay Tommy to let me go up there with him just to belay and watch!

Gym climber
Aug 14, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
I was going to hot-link one of those Nikon photos, but decided to just point:

This is a RAD picture of C-Mac!!!!

Trad climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
Aug 14, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
Also very cool that Kevin Jorgeson is going to work with Tommy on the route in the fall.

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Aug 14, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
The video that Nikon has on their site of Mescalito is perhaps the coolest video that I have ever seen.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
i didnt even notice there was video at first... cool!

three different ways to see the video

Aug 15, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
That is a great fecking video! I hope he makes more progress in the autumn.

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Aug 16, 2009 - 04:15am PT
Yahouza Tommy, that's one heckof a Flying Dynosore move!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Aug 16, 2009 - 08:48am PT
i am all about free routes on el cap.

i do think that the amount of bolts added to the aid/free pitches needs to be minimal.
otherwise all the aid routes will be much less committing.

while Coz and i were on the Muir and it's variations, we did not add ANY bolts to existing Muir wall pitches.

food for thought, go Tommy!

Big Wall climber
Aug 19, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
WOW Holy Schlitz! TC is the man. Mac you have never been in a storm on the Craptain?? What the hell is wrong with you. Fair weather climbers they are all the same. LOL. Maybe TC should warm up for those hard pitches with some 4th class hauling before he hits the vertical. That will warm you up big time. In fact i am willing to belay on those 4th class hauls if he would like. I find them to be both exhausting and a really fun back breaking warm up, might even get some peck pump. Hell the talus field below offers some great challenging hauling. Never under estimate the power of a 4th class haul!.

Best of luck on this and I am sure by 2011 we will be reading about the Mescalito Free. Put the Austrians on the no fly list!!!!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
here is the latest from the wall
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 18, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
Well, that's all fine and dandy. But who knows what's really going on up there?

So how many bolts have been added? To what pitches and in what location please?

And are these bolts now next to the existing aid cracks, now effectively chicken bolts?

I do knott know the answers to these questions, which is why I ask. Jerry Miller and Tom Evans - can you please share what you have witnessed through your giant lenses regarding bolt addition? You've been up there Chris Mac - what's the scoop?

I really hope Tommy hasn't bolted the snot out of El Cap like Todd Skinner did on Dihedral Wall, but has instead attacked the free climbing in the spirit of Sean and Nico on The Secret Passage or Alex and Thomas Huber on their various free projects. Those guys climbed sick, hard, runout routes without adding any new bolts next to the aid lines [although they sometimes added bolts where they climbed on brand new terrain] and I have personally witnessed those guys taking huge whippers.

Adding bolts to an existing route just to make it easier and safer to free climb is LAME, and should not be tolerated under any circumstance, especially in the Centre of the Universe on one of its most popular faces.

Peter Zabrok
Ontario, Canada
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 21, 2009 - 03:01pm PT

Maybe the ideal solution for an El Cap route (like Dihedral Wall) which would see very few free attempts, but quite a few aid ascents would be for the free folks to use removable bolts like the Fixe Triplex.
That way, they remove them after they are done (unless other folks are lined up to try freeing it).
Future free climbers can bring their own box of Triplex bolts to put back in the holes, while they are working the pitches on TR.
And the aid climbers are not tempted to clip the bolts from the free version, because they are no longer in place.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 75 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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