ec
climber
ca
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Jun 14, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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I remember Eddie Mo taking a 60 foot zipper on pitch 15...an original Harding rivet had sheared...and an original Harding rivet HELD the fall! Thin sh*t to free!
 ec
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 14, 2009 - 07:57am PT
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Really nice! Thanks for the heads up!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 14, 2009 - 07:58am PT
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A ten year project, hmmmm....I guess that leaves me out.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Aug 14, 2009 - 08:02am PT
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Completely amazing to me.
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Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
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Aug 14, 2009 - 09:48am PT
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Holy schit! Amazing!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 14, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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Chris McNamera, belayer to the stars!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 14, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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It looks kinda steep and smooth up there in places!
(photo by Corey Rich)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 14, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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I would pay Tommy to let me go up there with him just to belay and watch!
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Aug 14, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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The video that Nikon has on their site of Mescalito is perhaps the coolest video that I have ever seen.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Aug 15, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
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That is a great fecking video! I hope he makes more progress in the autumn.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 16, 2009 - 04:15am PT
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Yahouza Tommy, that's one heckof a Flying Dynosore move!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Aug 16, 2009 - 08:48am PT
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i am all about free routes on el cap.
however...
i do think that the amount of bolts added to the aid/free pitches needs to be minimal.
otherwise all the aid routes will be much less committing.
while Coz and i were on the Muir and it's variations, we did not add ANY bolts to existing Muir wall pitches.
food for thought, go Tommy!
ks
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Silver
Big Wall climber
Reno
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Aug 19, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
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WOW Holy Schlitz! TC is the man. Mac you have never been in a storm on the Craptain?? What the hell is wrong with you. Fair weather climbers they are all the same. LOL. Maybe TC should warm up for those hard pitches with some 4th class hauling before he hits the vertical. That will warm you up big time. In fact i am willing to belay on those 4th class hauls if he would like. I find them to be both exhausting and a really fun back breaking warm up, might even get some peck pump. Hell the talus field below offers some great challenging hauling. Never under estimate the power of a 4th class haul!.
Best of luck on this and I am sure by 2011 we will be reading about the Mescalito Free. Put the Austrians on the no fly list!!!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 18, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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Well, that's all fine and dandy. But who knows what's really going on up there?
So how many bolts have been added? To what pitches and in what location please?
And are these bolts now next to the existing aid cracks, now effectively chicken bolts?
I do knott know the answers to these questions, which is why I ask. Jerry Miller and Tom Evans - can you please share what you have witnessed through your giant lenses regarding bolt addition? You've been up there Chris Mac - what's the scoop?
I really hope Tommy hasn't bolted the snot out of El Cap like Todd Skinner did on Dihedral Wall, but has instead attacked the free climbing in the spirit of Sean and Nico on The Secret Passage or Alex and Thomas Huber on their various free projects. Those guys climbed sick, hard, runout routes without adding any new bolts next to the aid lines [although they sometimes added bolts where they climbed on brand new terrain] and I have personally witnessed those guys taking huge whippers.
Adding bolts to an existing route just to make it easier and safer to free climb is LAME, and should not be tolerated under any circumstance, especially in the Centre of the Universe on one of its most popular faces.
Peter Zabrok
Ontario, Canada
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 21, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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Pete,
Maybe the ideal solution for an El Cap route (like Dihedral Wall) which would see very few free attempts, but quite a few aid ascents would be for the free folks to use removable bolts like the Fixe Triplex.
That way, they remove them after they are done (unless other folks are lined up to try freeing it).
Future free climbers can bring their own box of Triplex bolts to put back in the holes, while they are working the pitches on TR.
And the aid climbers are not tempted to clip the bolts from the free version, because they are no longer in place.
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