working of the first free ascent of Mescalito


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Trad climber
the jeep
May 30, 2009 - 03:52pm PT

the monkey agrees, very cool!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 30, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
That shiet is cool!

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
May 30, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
Epic for sure! Tommy is gnarly!

Trad climber
May 31, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
as long as my login is still active, i can't let stuff like this drop to page 3.

thanks for making the taco worth reading, Cmac
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 31, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
"It took me 4 years until I finally learned how to stand on "edges" I never thought were possible to stand on."

Secretly, folks, I felt the same way when I was learning to climb. Then I read the next bit:

Tommy continued "That is the reason so many 5.14+ or even 5.15 climbers get shut down on El Cap. It takes years to learn the technical hand and footwork you need on el cap."

Hey Chris, does Tommy have to change his shoes often to stand on those "edges"?

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
May 31, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
Wow! Pretty amazing. What's the new hole count??
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 31, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Yeah.... drillin' all over Hell ain't cool.
Ask the Hubers.......Bold leads with A3 pro(that sucked).....
Not Fatty bolts. Changes the equation a bit, I'm thinkin'...
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 1, 2009 - 12:46am PT
Rad, rad, and rad.

I just can't believe this stuff is possible. How many sections has Tommy not figured out the moves on? Is it a matter of putting it all together or do many unlocked sections remain?



Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 1, 2009 - 12:59am PT
climbers are so insanely creative

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
I just uploaded 5 videos and put them in the trip report

or you can see them all here:

warning, there is no climbing in the videos just clearing storm clouds and tommy discussing the route and his likelyhood of sending it

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jun 1, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
Chris - your gear list shows no cams smaller than a 0.5 camalot. That cannot be, can it?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
oops... i will fix that

oh and karl, to answer your question, i think there are only 2-3 sections that he needs to figure out. one of them is that sick dyno.

however, once he figures out the moves, that is just the first step. the real challenge will becoming fit enough so that he can do all the pitches in one go. There is more 5.14 on this route than i think all the rest of the Valley crags (i think there are five 5.14 pitches on this route and only four 5.14 cragging routes in the valley)
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 1, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
Does he need/want to be able to do it on one go or could he just climb Mescalito in 10 days like the rest of us chumps! (or is that one go?) Skinner was up on the Salathe for almost a month straight wasn't he?

Pretty Cool!



Jun 1, 2009 - 03:04pm PT

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 9, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
So I guess Tommy's the reason the "C3F" pitches (according to your book, Chris!) didn't have any fixed pieces when I climbed it a couple of weeks ago? He's freeing what I'm nailing? It's hard to fathom.

Trad climber
Damn Humid-as-f*#k Georgia
Jun 9, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
hahaha "I guess I belay OK."


Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Jun 11, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
I ran across that hammer for sale, called the Bongo Hammer:

Google it and even more places show up, so it's in the wild.

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jun 14, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
bump cause i never saw this. bad ass.

Jun 14, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
I remember Eddie Mo taking a 60 foot zipper on pitch original Harding rivet had sheared...and an original Harding rivet HELD the fall! Thin sh*t to free!

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 10:47am PT
Nikon just put a bunch of photos up on its site about this climb

my career as a professional belayer is really starting to take off!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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