It's been a while since I climbed this route but I did do it twice. I don't remember there being any rivets, so that should be a non-issue. I just remember a bunch of really poorly placed quarter inch bolts on the last ladder...but the scariest thing was an ancient piece of webbing on a rurp. It made a tearing noise with every movement. Yes, I was too lazy to cut the webbing and re-thread. There were also empty holes I bathooked. I think the story I read in some book is that they ran out of bolts so they pulled and re-used a few. So RR had a bad bolt but the rest of us just get an empty hole. After the rest of the route I don't remember it really being a big deal...just a quick yarding up to the top. Will be nice to have some modern belay bolts here and there but I recall a lot of the anchors being gear, or one bolt and gear, or bolts in a thin piece of onion skin and gear. We brought a lot of cordelettes and long runners to equalize anchors and short-fix onward.
Sorry Jake, I must do this. "quick yarding up" as in a 14 hr ascent if I'm correct. Also, I might add that you forgot the pins and only had cam hooks on that, or the first time you climbed it which was in what, some excruciatingly long 33 hrs?
You make it sound easy.
I want more written stories Jake, because I can't remember it correctly. ;)
Ah, the challenge of purposefully poorly placed pieces of metal...
Bob, I did write the story of our ascents in this very thread once, but I think it's MIA...not sure what happened. I just meant that the bolt ladder was a quick and easy affair in comparison to the miles of expandoneering before it. The whole route went way quicker with free climbing shoes and no haul bag, that's for sure. But we still finished with the standard realization that bouldering is far more fun.
I'm glad I did the thing when it was a challenge...!
Klaus ur the rock hound of Yosemite!
if some repair is to be done then it should be identical to what was..
I'm not here to bash some rock climber who is willing to step up to the plate.
in Klaus world all routes would be left with 40yr old bolts...scary!
"All gear/piton anchors are still gear/piton anchors, as shown on the topo. Most of the bolt ladders have at least one or two solid bolts (with the exception of the ladder on P8).
Thanks to Roger and ASCA for providing hardware and advice! We placed 13 anchor bolts, 5 lead bolts, and one rivet. All lead bolts were 1-for-1 replacements of existing [sketchy] lead bolts. Anchors were cleaned up and are generally one bomber ASCA, plus one or two more moderate to good bolts"
Not only did the guys do exactly like we talked about, they gave me all the replaced bolts/hangers (except a few for themselves).
Wow! A nice bag of Peterson/Robbins first ascent treasures for my collection. No personel gain bullshit with these guys.
I feel like a proud father.