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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2005 - 04:28pm PT
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"Yeah, Ammon, I did install those first four 3/8” buttonheads… And you know why… "
Yep, I was just mentioning that the huge head is a pain in the ass to get the wires on them. I understand why you did it, I think we had a conversation about them before they were installed.
I too think the Sloan slander is out of control. Erik is one of the nicest guys I've met. He's done a lot of helpful work on the high angled stone in the Valley. It's just that he has a different opinion on how things should be done up there.
BitchMcFist. You sir, are correct. I was there, I saw it.
Yes, but were you there when they got replaced back to rivets?
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Wrathchild
climber
right behind you
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Jul 29, 2005 - 04:39pm PT
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That is great news if the bolt before the 9 o'clock roof is a rivet again. Although it is likely a 3/8th and not the 1/4 that caught my fall.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2005 - 04:49pm PT
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Yeah, if it did get changed it is most likely that it's a 3/8" rivet. BUT, it's more likely that the wire (if you don't use a keyhole hanger) to break than a 1/4" rivet to sheer.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 29, 2005 - 06:11pm PT
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I've got a nice scar on the top of my left elbow from [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=354"]my solo ascent of Zed-Em.[/url] Seems the block I was nailing decided to part company with the wall, along with me, and it dinged me pretty hard in the process. Nice thirty-footer, as I recall.
I also recall a big fatty 3/8" ASCA bolt in the middle of one of the A4 pitches. Shameful that such a bolt should replace the original rivet. Shameful. Shameful how greedily I clipped it, too.
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thebleeder
climber
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Jul 29, 2005 - 06:19pm PT
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ammon, i wanna hear what happened with magic mushroom.
OH SNAP.
just kiddin' bro. keep on getting at it.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Jul 29, 2005 - 06:39pm PT
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Congrats guys. Great pics. Ivo looks a little more whupped than Kev and Ammon though...those 2 looks as fresh as daisies!!
poop tube - check your e-mail, I just sent you Micah's numbers.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 29, 2005 - 07:53pm PT
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I dare say this thread is actually about climbing and climbing in the valley.
Maybe one day the political threads will die out and I'll read them all like in the old days of ST.com.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2005 - 01:23am PT
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Hey Bleeder Joe,
What's UP homie? Email me and give me your number. I want to go to The Creek this winter and need a guide to show me around.... haa ha haa.
Um, The Shroom? Well, I don't think the boys had enough rest between routes. They both bonked on Grey and wouldn't leave the fetal position... even though I shouted obscenities at them all night long, haa haa. I felt bad in the morning, kinda like a drill sergeant.
Ivo got off route, his headlamp started going out. He said it was like having to go talk to his dad after he did something wrong when he came back down to Grey to tell me they were worked and needed sleep.
Hell of an adventure, though. Somebody should have had that night on video. WAKE UP YOU WUSSIES!!! YOU GUYS ARE LIGHT!!! WE DIDN'T JUST CLIMB ALL DAY TO GO TO SLEEP!!! Haa haaa, too funny.
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Michael Moron
Social climber
Davison, MI
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Jul 30, 2005 - 01:40am PT
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"i was about to ask what the white arrow in the first photo was pointing to... then i realized it was my cursor!"
That was funny. How many beers were behind that little gem of a statement?
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imnotclever
climber
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Bump.
(The link from the SuperTopo Climbing News, that is supposed to go to this, goes to the wrong article. So I figured I'd give it a bump.)
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Daniel Duane
climber
CA
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Hey, reading this thread made me smack myself on the head. I neglected to mention Kevin when I wrote the LA Times article that mentioned Ivo and Ammon on ZM. So, this is official: Sorry Kevin. I spaced.
Dan
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sparkytheflash
Big Wall climber
seattle,wa
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hey ammon sweet run on zm. you're definately in another world than where i'm at. i'm still getting going. hey you don't know me but we have a mutual friend in jake hector. he and i did some routes at index. i think he's down there right now. how is he doing? he said he would get a ton of stuff done while he was down this summer. i hope he's sending. if you see him tell him hi for me. thanks.
dave back
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leezus
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Yeah Ammon, Ivo and Kevin!
excellent work!
cool how the dynamics can just click.
even cooler how you responded to both
BCD and BCE's comments. You're a good man, Ammon.
Look forward to working w/ you in the future.
Lee
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no_one
Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
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Nice work boys! Hey does that belay, the one with the picture of Kevin realy only consist of a Hook and a stopper or something? Insane! Hey Ammon, hope to see you around zion soon, any plans? See Ya!
Steve
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rockrunner
climber
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This sounds all very dangerous! I think it would be much safer to do walls in normal wall style rather than push style. I would hate to see anyone get hurt. Climbing in the night sounds very scary!
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WBraun
climber
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Actually climbing at night is much less scary. You can't see much except what you are doing right in front of you. Very nice!
What's so scary? Are we afraid of the dark?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 18, 2007 - 03:44am PT
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bump for the sickness!
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Cosmin
Big Wall climber
Europe/China
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Apr 18, 2007 - 04:25am PT
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useful tr - good climb. deserves another bump. wish someone could fix the photos - they don't show up on my screen at least.
c
PS - would be nice to have more trs like this!
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Neil
Gym climber
Here and there
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Apr 18, 2007 - 07:46am PT
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Truly awesome. Thanks for the bump.
Nate
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Apr 18, 2007 - 08:28am PT
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hell yeah, glad this got bumped as for some reason i missed the original thread last year.
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