NEWS: Bolts On Everest


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Swami Jr.

Trad climber
Bath, NY
May 6, 2009 - 11:11am PT
I always thought everest would be the perfect sport climbers destination.

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
May 6, 2009 - 11:39am PT
For a couple of years now I have been of the opinion that an Everest ascent via enhanced virtual reality is a possibility. Take some of the cool IMAX photography and projected it into a huge VR setup wrapped around some dork's head. Make him stand with sixty pounds of guilt in a beef freezer with an industrial-sized wind machine while ice water is pumped through his boots. Get some high-wattage sun lamps on his face and he's good to go! He can accomplish his ascent of the big'un complete with frostbitten toes, third degree sunburn, cracked lips and huge ego in less time that it takes to apply for a place on a guided climb.

Don't forget to stop by the photo booth on the way out to collect the picture of you on the summit.

Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
May 6, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
I've heard the peak fee is on order of $10k, but it may be more now.

The masses can have Everest. For the rest, there are peaks like Anapurna I - 151 Ascents, 61 Fatalities.

Trad climber
May 6, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
Where is Ken Nichols when we really need him
Bill Sherman

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 6, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
Porkchop, the last number I knew of for the peak fee was $70,000 for up to 7 climbers.

The key would be to find an expedition that already had a permit and try to "purchase" a spot on the expedition. It would cost you $10,000 minimum for that spot.

After that, the costs would be whatever you deemed necessary to get you and your gear to basecamp. Figure on at least $2000 to get from Kathmandu to BC unless you walk the whole thing without any porter assistance but that takes on average 2 weeks alone.

Politics get tricky on the mountain and groups will charge you for using the route they put up through the Khumbu icefall. They are possessive of their work.

Figure in other incidentals and you're probably still looking at around $20,000 to climb the mountain unsupported.

Fees are much lower on the North Side (Tibet) but I'm not as familiar with them.
Bill Sherman

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 6, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
Now to address the original issue of this post. I've never climbed on Everest and have no intentions of ever going back to Nepal for that mountain. I have other objectives in mind that are much more pure in many senses.

The bolts were coming at some point and I'd rather have someone responsible like Willie putting them in.

It's still better off than what's in place in Europe on the popular guided routes and if the trash can be cleaned up at the same time then I'm for it.

I climbed in Chamonix for the first time in 2007 and was astonished at the local "ethics" (or rather lack of). On something simple like the Cosmiques Arete, any time there was any "difficult" climbing, front point placements were chiseled/drilled into the rock. The crux crack of the climb had a huge metal fixture with 20 slings hanging from it in addition to the front point placements all the way up the section.

On other routes like the Chere couloir, there were sets of belay/rap bolts every 30-40' along both sides of the couloir despite plenty of natural pro placements.

And I don't even want to get started on the madness that ensued on climbing Modica-Noury.

Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
May 6, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
As per usual, Michael Kennedy has it right.

Ed Bannister
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 7, 2009 - 02:04am PT
Beer, bolts , babes, and oxygen cylinders.....

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
May 11, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
I'm really glad that bolts are being placed on Everest, because it is everyone's 'right' to have a safe ascent, right?

Somebody should also replace the fixed ropes every spring, and place permanent tents on the south col, but what would really make the mountain 'world class' is a full scale mall at the south col....And everybody there had better be able to speak english or I'll be upset at having to adjust myself to another culture. First thing we need is a couple of good restaurants so I don't have to eat that $hit expedition food. They better have extensive wine lists or I won't leave a tip. And there had better also be a starbucks as I'll want my latte to carry with me on summit day....and finally a Gap store in the mall would allow me (it's my right after all) to purchase cheap goodies made overseas to take home to my family when I tell them about how "I" climbed Everest.



Ice climber
Ashland, Or
May 11, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
If the bolts help facilitate the Sherpas in keeping themselves and other people safer on the mountain, and reducing the clusterf*#k of fixed ropes, then I'm all for it. I'll never forget jugging a fixed line on Ama Dablam, reaching the anchor and having the old pitons come out with my fingers.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 11, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
(Posted by Mick Ryan to a new thread - it seems to fit well here. He doesn't say who the "we" are/is.)

'Last week we ran a news item from Kenton Cool detailing the recent placing of bolts at the Yellow Band on Everest.

"The Yellow Band is one of the most noticeable features on the South Side of Everest. It sweeps through Nuptse and Lhotse before cutting through Everest itself." explained Kenton.

We now have images of the bolting sent in by Mara Larson and taken by Adrian Ballinger.

The photos show Willie Benegas placing the new bolts that will anchor the fixed lines at the Yellow Band.

Kenton stated:

"The fixing of a number of bolts at this spot isn't "murdering the impossible" but a sensible act that will without a doubt save lives of Sherpas, Western climbers and guides alike."'

Trad climber
Armstrong BC
Oct 21, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
must be 10mm bolts. 10cm would be as wide as your fist. Getting pretty crowded up there I guess

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 21, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
Bolts on Everest and the cable route on Half Dome have a lot in common. If there is a piece of terra firma of interest it will be made accessible to the masses, but let's not confuse these pathways with actual climbing.

Mountain climber
Poor Valley
Oct 21, 2009 - 01:55pm PT

Stewart Johnson

t.c. ca.
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
there are other routes to climb on this mountain that are still wild,but there is no money there.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#131871

Oct 21, 2009 - 06:33pm PT many draws will I need to do Everest now?
Stewart Johnson

t.c. ca.
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
jeez, it actually helps everyone to have cables to the top of half dome.
a well maintained via ferratta to the worlds highest point is really no different.although we certainly dont bragg about going UP the half dome cables on this forum .more people will spend and summitt everest...
gonzo chemist

the Orange Curtain
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
Where is Ken Nichols when we really need him?

or Art Messier...


Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 21, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
I have many Sherpa friends who make the dangerous trek up Everest with heavy loads time after time every season. Part of the reason they do it is to pay for their children to be educated so they don't have to do that kind of dangerous work anymore. Bennegas and other Western guides have seen plenty of Sherpa friends die as have I. If the bolts offend you, climb it without clipping in to fixed ropes as the original party did, but let your Sherpas do it in safety.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 21, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
As usual Jan is right on the money.
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