1969 ASCENT : *Let Us Rejoice & Read It Here*

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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
May 4, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 4, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
Lynne:
1. Go to http://lmgtfy.com/
2. Type in question, click on "google search"
3. A blue highlighted link will appear below.
4. Move the cursor over the link, and two blue boxes - "tiny url" and "go" will appear.
5. Click on "tiny url", and when it pops up, copy it to wherever it's needed.

The "tiny url" thing essentially abbreviates the original URL, so the victim can't guess what it's about.

Edit: I think that Russ first used this trick on me, but EKat explained how to do it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
Those Ascents were so much more than mere magazines.
They were twinkling beacons emanating from rarefied air, urging us outward from our shells.

I had no idea Dean Caldwell's experience extended onto ice.

A very cagey humor indeed: how many of us could come up with such artifice, such elevated and creative excuse form to keep us locked into the deli as it were, avoiding the inevitable extremity of adventure?

I know many climbers who enjoy the odd search for the face-saving excuse, laced with humor and irony, but this line by Caldwell in that regard just busts me up as an all-time effort:

"For three days we sought alibis to acquit ourselves of this apparition. We left dirty cups out by the stove in base camp so dogs would steal them. Obligingly they did. How could we embark on such an adventure with no cups?"
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
May 4, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
Tar Guy..... twinkling beacons, rejoice.....you bring out the best in words. Where have we lost or misplaced so many glorious ones.

Edit: Say Howdy Lisa. You the best, Gal. :D Peace and Joy, Lynne
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
We can recognize Lisa is 95% of the reason that I can engage in much of anything whatsoever.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
But back to Caldwell, and the magical prose of the era.
I love the way he portrays the natural world, tweaking our senses all the closer to it with anthropomorphic device:

"Ears fill too, but with sounds of indigestion from the icefall. The symptom is obvious: icefall is vomiting. A discussion held: quorum and diagnosis achieved rapidly. Treatment: run."

And later:

"The ice fall is discouraging. Paul and Chris accuse it of trying to eat them. Roger and I convict it."

The alpinist treats the mountain beast as a living thing, engaging its personality, entreating, bargaining, casting aspersions...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
Instead of a bland serving featuring the standard blow-by-blow of their dogged struggle, we get this lyrical repartee between climber and the independent elements of ascent, each with equal weight in play:

"Only four pitons left, but Curiosity thinks we should look."
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2009 - 12:38am PT
The Salathe on a diet of beer?
Good one !!!
I suppose I heard that but haven't thought about it for a long long time.

I guess I better get to scanning the next article: THE CLIMBER AS VISIONARY, by Doug Robinson.

I know, I lied, it's not even in the chute yet: takes me ever more than a bit less than forever to scan this stuff using voice-activated software. A bit like trying to flip pancakes with chopsticks...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
May 5, 2009 - 06:52am PT
A bit like trying to flip pancakes with chopsticks...

The results look so good it's easy to forget all your efforts. But these old Ascents, like I
said they are pages from my life.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
May 5, 2009 - 10:38am PT
I wanna read the conquest of Tillie's lookout.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
May 5, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
The first one I got was the 1968 edition. It was a birthday gift from one of my dads climbing bros, Paul Cooley. I think Paul is currently the secretary or treasurer for the Sierra Club's Desert Peak Section. It was my 11th bday. I loaned it to Matt Cox in 1976 and never saw it again.
I never owned this one, I think? It should be quite a treat.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 5, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
Flipping chopsticks with pancakes probably wouldn't be much fun, either. Thanks for the wonderful posts!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
May 5, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
I remember back in the mid-70s going to Caldwell's slide show in San Diego of the Wall of the Early Morning Light w/Harding. He was a pretty funny narrator. The last slide showed the media circus on top waiting for them to top out, and then he played really loud mariachi music in keeping with his take on the carnival atmosphere. Pretty funny stuff. But I had no idea he did this kind of stuff, too.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
May 7, 2009 - 02:11am PT
Besides a Salon we could also consider this a Soiree. The topic Tarbuster presents is gold for a weekend of friendship and discussion. :D



jbar

Social climber
urasymptote
May 7, 2009 - 05:39am PT
Wow! Looking at the pic of Yurupaja fills me with longing to be there. Then I reflect on past climbs and it connects me with the reality of truly being there, roped up, a little scared, white snow, cold air and the reality of the grand adventure these guys shared. Post up more!

I was thinking "Salon" might reference some type of kinky chat area but then I found this . .

"A salon is a gathering of stimulating people of quality under the roof of an inspiring hostess or host, partly to amuse one another and partly to refine their taste and increase their knowledge through conversation and readings"
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2009 - 09:49am PT
jbar!
YES

Expect the next article HERE Friday afternoon ...
THE CLIMBER AS VISIONARY, by Doug Robinson
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2009 - 09:58am PT
So between now and then we might perhaps close out our ruminations and thoughts upon Dean Caldwell and Yerupaja...

Anybody notice how overall his writing style is so whimsical and playful, with a tinge of cynicism ?
It also seemed to reflect a bit of the psychedelic... or am I just inferring that due to the era in which the writing is placed ...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
May 7, 2009 - 10:34am PT
As I re read this the sun is up, getting ready to bake me with it's heat today . The swimming pool is already beckoning ....there is no doubt I am truly a whimp and always have been when it come to high and cold peaks....unpredictable with their snow and ice. To old now to pretend any differently. Cheers to the brave or foolish men and women that party on their peaks. :D

My personal favorite phrases...."little boys readied to go touch the virgin's foot without the towering god, Yerupaja seeing"..... and "psychedelic rope-fan....."
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
Time for the next article...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 09:54pm PT



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