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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 4, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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One of the many fine items presented at my benefit auction.
I scanned it in its entirety: it’s the only one to lay flat without compromising the binding.
We have Dana B. to thank for this !!!
I’ll post up the whole thing, in segments by article, … overtime …to savor.
In between, maybe we can do something like a SALON.
This is where we put on our tweed jackets and get all talkative & nuanced ‘n stuff.
Maybe sip some Pernod as we go…
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I really want to see "The Jewel in the Lotus". . .
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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You will my friend!
But not just yet...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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How about that Dean Caldwell guy?
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Double D
climber
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Wow, good find Roy! I didn't know those boys went down there. Hard core for '69.
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Evel
Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
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Sh#t Roy ! When we gonna git t'gethr? Jus don't seem right we both live in Ned an don' have a Dram together...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Roy, I love it, a bonafide Salon. Of course we can get together a great group of diverse people for an evening or a house party weekend and discuss the notions and phenomena of the climb....ascents and the life it entails along with living it and everything in between.
We have the best potential group of humans ever to participate.... Smiles and Peace, Lynne
Edit: I'll supply the Pernod or something equally yummy. :)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sweet. Keep it rollin', breddah.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Bump dis puppy back up dere!!!!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sort of like the roundtable at the Algonquin? Will Dorothy Parker be there?
SuperTopo as a literary salon - now that's high falutin'!
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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I thought a Salon is where certain female members of this species go to get primped for mating rituals.
Honestly, what is this Salon you all speak of, have never herd....
(I know, look it up on wiki....)
Thanks Roy for this! Great idea, It'll be a thread to come back to.
What a cast of characters on the contents page! This is a gem of an issue.
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scuffy b
climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
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What a fabulous issue that was.
I hope Cub Reporter is taking good care of my copy.
I look forward especially to the Conquest of Tillie's Lookout.
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hooblie
climber
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salon indeed! and so it shall be. might we stipulate that sa share equal emphasis with lon, which would terminate nicely in the nasal sinus merely intimating the terminal n. i move that the republicans among us adopt the mannerisms of william f. while the boho's lustily slam mugs and slur a frothy "friggin frogs!" when salon is properly intoned.
mr. buster, is there a hook in my cheek?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Very nice!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Yes, Mighty Hiker, ST Salon has a nice ring to it. Lovin' the naughty trick ekat taught you. Howwwww can I copy it ? :DD
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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The 1969 Ascent was the first one I bought. The section on the Meadows had what seemed to me at the time like secret knowledge. The book review section has one by Pratt of the book Northwest Mountaineering that is a true classic. Enjoy!
John
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Roper's article "Eleven Domes" inspired me and my friends to ditch classes, just before
finals, our senior year in college. Instead we drove up to the Meadows the first day the
road opened, camped amid snow, and lived a sublime life climbing on domes we had
never seen or imagined before.
Many of the routes that I learned about from that article, I climbed then or later. One
in particular that I haven't is still near the top of my lifetime do-list.
Thinking back, I realize that each of those first few Ascent issues literally changed
my life. Unlike today when there is so much information available about climbs and
climbing, back then each Ascent opened doors to previously unseen worlds.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Lynne:
1. Go to http://lmgtfy.com/
2. Type in question, click on "google search"
3. A blue highlighted link will appear below.
4. Move the cursor over the link, and two blue boxes - "tiny url" and "go" will appear.
5. Click on "tiny url", and when it pops up, copy it to wherever it's needed.
The "tiny url" thing essentially abbreviates the original URL, so the victim can't guess what it's about.
Edit: I think that Russ first used this trick on me, but EKat explained how to do it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
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Those Ascents were so much more than mere magazines.
They were twinkling beacons emanating from rarefied air, urging us outward from our shells.
I had no idea Dean Caldwell's experience extended onto ice.
A very cagey humor indeed: how many of us could come up with such artifice, such elevated and creative excuse form to keep us locked into the deli as it were, avoiding the inevitable extremity of adventure?
I know many climbers who enjoy the odd search for the face-saving excuse, laced with humor and irony, but this line by Caldwell in that regard just busts me up as an all-time effort:
"For three days we sought alibis to acquit ourselves of this apparition. We left dirty cups out by the stove in base camp so dogs would steal them. Obligingly they did. How could we embark on such an adventure with no cups?"
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Tar Guy..... twinkling beacons, rejoice.....you bring out the best in words. Where have we lost or misplaced so many glorious ones.
Edit: Say Howdy Lisa. You the best, Gal. :D Peace and Joy, Lynne
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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We can recognize Lisa is 95% of the reason that I can engage in much of anything whatsoever.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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But back to Caldwell, and the magical prose of the era.
I love the way he portrays the natural world, tweaking our senses all the closer to it with anthropomorphic device:
"Ears fill too, but with sounds of indigestion from the icefall. The symptom is obvious: icefall is vomiting. A discussion held: quorum and diagnosis achieved rapidly. Treatment: run."
And later:
"The ice fall is discouraging. Paul and Chris accuse it of trying to eat them. Roger and I convict it."
The alpinist treats the mountain beast as a living thing, engaging its personality, entreating, bargaining, casting aspersions...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
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Instead of a bland serving featuring the standard blow-by-blow of their dogged struggle, we get this lyrical repartee between climber and the independent elements of ascent, each with equal weight in play:
"Only four pitons left, but Curiosity thinks we should look."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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The Salathe on a diet of beer?
Good one !!!
I suppose I heard that but haven't thought about it for a long long time.
I guess I better get to scanning the next article: THE CLIMBER AS VISIONARY, by Doug Robinson.
I know, I lied, it's not even in the chute yet: takes me ever more than a bit less than forever to scan this stuff using voice-activated software. A bit like trying to flip pancakes with chopsticks...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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A bit like trying to flip pancakes with chopsticks...
The results look so good it's easy to forget all your efforts. But these old Ascents, like I
said they are pages from my life.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I wanna read the conquest of Tillie's lookout.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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The first one I got was the 1968 edition. It was a birthday gift from one of my dads climbing bros, Paul Cooley. I think Paul is currently the secretary or treasurer for the Sierra Club's Desert Peak Section. It was my 11th bday. I loaned it to Matt Cox in 1976 and never saw it again.
I never owned this one, I think? It should be quite a treat.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Flipping chopsticks with pancakes probably wouldn't be much fun, either. Thanks for the wonderful posts!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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I remember back in the mid-70s going to Caldwell's slide show in San Diego of the Wall of the Early Morning Light w/Harding. He was a pretty funny narrator. The last slide showed the media circus on top waiting for them to top out, and then he played really loud mariachi music in keeping with his take on the carnival atmosphere. Pretty funny stuff. But I had no idea he did this kind of stuff, too.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Besides a Salon we could also consider this a Soiree. The topic Tarbuster presents is gold for a weekend of friendship and discussion. :D
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jbar
Social climber
urasymptote
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Wow! Looking at the pic of Yurupaja fills me with longing to be there. Then I reflect on past climbs and it connects me with the reality of truly being there, roped up, a little scared, white snow, cold air and the reality of the grand adventure these guys shared. Post up more!
I was thinking "Salon" might reference some type of kinky chat area but then I found this . .
"A salon is a gathering of stimulating people of quality under the roof of an inspiring hostess or host, partly to amuse one another and partly to refine their taste and increase their knowledge through conversation and readings"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2009 - 09:49am PT
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jbar!
YES
Expect the next article HERE Friday afternoon ...
THE CLIMBER AS VISIONARY, by Doug Robinson
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2009 - 09:58am PT
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So between now and then we might perhaps close out our ruminations and thoughts upon Dean Caldwell and Yerupaja...
Anybody notice how overall his writing style is so whimsical and playful, with a tinge of cynicism ?
It also seemed to reflect a bit of the psychedelic... or am I just inferring that due to the era in which the writing is placed ...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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As I re read this the sun is up, getting ready to bake me with it's heat today . The swimming pool is already beckoning ....there is no doubt I am truly a whimp and always have been when it come to high and cold peaks....unpredictable with their snow and ice. To old now to pretend any differently. Cheers to the brave or foolish men and women that party on their peaks. :D
My personal favorite phrases...."little boys readied to go touch the virgin's foot without the towering god, Yerupaja seeing"..... and "psychedelic rope-fan....."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
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Time for the next article...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Tar Buddy- this is a fabulous idea!
The black and white photos of those huge Andean faces really spelled it out for me.
Thanks
murf
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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The Climber As Visionary
I grew up with this stuff... as clear today as it was when it first trickled into my awareness.
And I still use it, revel in it, give thanks.
"We should explore which characteristics of the climbing process prepare its practitioners for these experiences."
"To climb with intense concentration is to shut out the world, which, when it reappears, will be as a fresh experience, strange and wonderful in its newness."
"Sitting on a log changing from klettershoes into boots, and looking over the Valley, we are suffused with oceanic feelings of clarity, distance, union, oneness."
"…we remember that the incredible beauty of the mountains is always at hand, always ready to nudge us into awareness."
"Vision is seeing what is more deeply interfused, and following this process leads to a sense of ecology. It is an intuitive rather than a scientific ecology …."
"….from that air which blew clean and hot up off the eastern desert and carries lingering memories of snow fields on the Dana Plateau and miles of Tuolumne treetops as it pours over the rim of the Valley on its way to the Pacific."
"And as the visionary faculty comes closer to the surface, what is needed is not an effort of discipline but an effort of relaxation, a submission of self to the wonderful, supportive, and sufficient world."
Thank You Doug !
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Okay so maybe the Jewel in the Lotus is presented with a fairly straightforward blow-by-blow set of prose, but the photos are by Tom Frost and the darn spike of rock consummated for many of us a very iconic alpine rock climb for which we had dreamy designs...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 21, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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We want Tillie's Lookout
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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You all will have to wade through the snows of Mount Waddington first.......
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scuffy b
climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
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May 21, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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the drizzle!!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 21, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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Thanks, Roy for 'The Jewel'. . .
I've been waiting for it so impatiently!!!!
:-)
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 21, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Seriously, Tar (though seriousness itself is exactly the wrong way to approach it, rather "an effort of relaxation" and a spirit of play), thank you for your voice-activated efforts to bring us this classic mag.
I too, honestly, find some of those lines you quoted from "Visionary" ringing back into my head, especially lately on those long meditative days of one ski shuffling in front of the other and me atop barely able to keep up with breathing in and panting out the rarefied air, and barely able at the best of times to contain the delight.
Intriguing to me, in the couple of paragraphs I reread, how formal and even ponderous my language was then. Some of it kinda pedantic, even. Was discussing style with an editor and new friend this winter, and she actually preferred that old style to my more modern, more played down and "aw shucks" way of writing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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I was thinking the same thing when I read what you wrote Douglas.
Like I was nine years old at the time; for perspective (not that I read it at the time). And it looked like you had done quite a bit of homework. I think a lot of us got, or have been pushed out of being artsy, technical, expository and such with our writing, do to a certain self-consciousness and perhaps even peer pressure.
Striving for insight somehow fell out of fashion I believe.
You have to take risks with that approach.......
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 21, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
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Bump for an awesome thread!!!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 21, 2009 - 11:01pm PT
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Oh you Tar...dude...........send.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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May 21, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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Tarbuster: Great posting----and my old eyes can read the scans just fine. 1969 was the year I had a one-afternoon -----"this is how you belay and tie in" session with a couple of friends and their older brother. After that it was read and study: "Mountaineering-Freedom of the Hills" and discovery by doing.
Amazing to think I lived through that introduction process.
Thanks! Fritz (I'm the nerd on the right in this 1971 photo in Idaho's Sawtooths)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2009 - 12:08am PT
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Why just look at those ruffians !
That photograph is brimming with character.
Well done Fritz !!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Uhhhh....
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 17, 2009 - 12:16am PT
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Chiloe wrote: "Thinking back, I realize that each of those first few Ascent issues literally changed my life. Unlike today when there is so much information available about climbs and
climbing, back then each Ascent opened doors to previously unseen worlds."
I'm right there with you. I was just a kid when those early issues came out and I would take them to school and just stare at the pics. The layout and everything about them made the climbs seem mythical and epic, like something from a magical world.
I trust, or hope, that we captured a little of this magic in the new Stonemaster book.
I'll tell you, Royal Robbins bottled lightning in his new book -supposedly, the first of seven long form memoirs - entitled: My Life (subtitle: Volume one - To Be Brave). He was able to get down to first causes, and so the material has real strength, like the tide or the monsoon.
But those old Ascents - hell, they were like the Holy Grail to me.
JL
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 17, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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Amazing stuff Roy!
Great for the soul. Thanks.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jun 17, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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In following Tarbuster’s wonderful link on the 1969 Ascent, I found a poster who mentioned he had some Ascents for sale. I purchase his collection of Ascents-------- just to get the 1968 Ascent---which was one of 2 missing in my collection.
I am now selling my duplicate 1969 Ascent (and other Ascents now or soon) on EBAY-----for those that want to own this classic----here’s the item number: 160341532561
Some of us are “Completests”. Easy example is: those who want to do every route in the “50 Classic Climbs” book. I have accepted I will never climb all those routes: but I honor them.
A more achievable literary equivalent is to acquire all issues of Ascent.
Ascent was published yearly 1967-1974, then there was the 1975-76 combined issue. After that: anthologies of old articles, with occasional new stories, got published every few years 1980 to the late 90's.
For young cutting edge climbers of the late 60's early 70's: Ascent was the coolest climbing publication. It featured the best and best- writing American climbers (and an occasional Brit), great photos, and artsy stories.
Keep posting Tar----The “Tillie’s Lookout” story with great new words like "enfootment" and "rumpage" changed my life. Glad you’ve saved the best for last!
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taylor
Social climber
the local crag
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
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this is great reading and should be a part of every climbers education. nothing is more important than knowing our own history
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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I'll contiue to scan & post each article from this 1969 ASCENT until we reach, page by page, the back cover. I'll do so consecutively as they appear in the actual magazine.
Enjoy!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jun 17, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
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I recall how my Dad, a world-traveling geologist, reacted when he saw the cover of the '69
Ascent:
"There ain't no such mountain!"
He was joking, of course, obviously there was, but reacting to the otherworldly quality of that
cover -- more striking in color, with brown rock and white snow against a pitch-black sky.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 24, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
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A shout-out to Tarbuster, Steve or somebody else who scansalot ...
Anyone got a scan of the Tuolumne Meadows article in that 1969 Ascent, or (better yet) the Tom Higgins article about the Meadows that came out in AAJ around the same time?
I'm asking first because both influenced my early climbing career, and also I vaguely recall Tom discussing the Cooke Book and its rating, which could be interesting in light of Zander's recent TR.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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Sir Scansalot here!
(Okay, that appellation goes to Steve Grossman, but...)
We are almost there.
But first, and in sequence as promised, we will see Ed Ward Drummond's White Elephant, White Whale.
Then, Matterhorn, by Dennis Eberl.
Then, drum roll, by popular demand and also in sequence:
"The Conquest of Tilllies Lookout"
!!!
So I will get to scanning and lastly produce "Eleven Domes", text and photos by Steve Roper.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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I gotta shake out.
Check back in a wee bit...
 like in Star Trek when that droll, mechanical, monotone feline computer voice says: *WORKING*
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 24, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
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like in Star Trek when that monotone feline computer says: *WORKING*
Way cooler than an hourglass icon followed by the Blue Screen Of Death.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jul 24, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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I have two of these at home. I still get it out from time to time. DR's Climber as Visionary article is one of my all time favorites. And I love Higgins' line: "Aerojet General built him a chrome-moly cube. . . . He did all four sides." And after a successful day at the crag, I like to look at my companions and say: "Are there no more worlds to conquer?", waiting for someone to say, "The bar opens at 4!" But all I get are blank looks. I gotta get some older partners.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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Of older partners, you are much in need, indeed.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 24, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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"...standing sentinel among other hummocks"...
This sh#t is genius! You old guys were really treated to some literary gems. The most my generation gets is fag-dashed Sherman retread diatribes and crass commercialism for the latest Chinese sweatshop wares du alpinisma.
Now who can scan a quality copy of the ascent of Mt. Poontanga?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 25, 2009 - 08:26am PT
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There it is, "Eleven Domes," one of the Ascent articles that changed my life, as I mentioned upthread.
On another thread someone mentioned their worries raised by detailed beta on The Hobbit Book, which
apparently described runouts and height-dependent moves. I posted a somewhat curmudgeonly note
about there being too much beta in the climbing world nowadays, just go climb the thing.
In the article Tarbuster scanned above is everything that we knew about The Hobbit Book when Leslie
and I climbed it in 1976, and we had a fine time:
"The Hobbit Book. III, 5.7.
...Four pitches in this book comprise the route. Don't stay in the main crack all the time -- occasionally
wander 20 feet to the left on the incredibly knobby wall. This is perhaps the most enjoyable climb in the
Meadows."
We were stylin' in PAs, with one set of hexes and stoppers.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 10:19am PT
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I miss my PA's.....
NOT !!!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 25, 2009 - 10:23am PT
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Really good scanning job on these, Tarbaby, thanks.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 25, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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I miss my PA's.....
NOT !!!
As you can see, those had the glued-and-sewn leather upgrade, as well.
I thought PAs were so bomber at the time, at least compared with my older RRs.
You could edge or jam, although the soles were kinda slick.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jul 25, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Tar: Bump for art and culture and thanks again.
RE: Eleven domes and Chiloe's comment on "too much beta."
It becomes a outdoor gym exercise, rather than adventure, when the route is exactly described and the gear needed to protect it is listed.
In the 70's, if you could find the route and knew the difficulty: you were on easy street.
In Idaho, we once climbed a new technical route on the wrong peak, thinking it was the famous "Warbonnet": because the USGS map dated from 1898 and there were no guidebooks.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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kinda slick...
"Soles of case hardened steel" as Largo once said (not an exact quote?).
But they do look purdy darn snazzy in them old photos of yours Larry.
And way better than RR's for real free climbing:
Completed my first 5.10's in them, a couple/three years past the uptake of EBs.
(nevermind Lonne climbing New Gen, 5.11, at Suicide in RRs...)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 25, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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Yeah, I switched to my "good" shoes, the EBs, next day when Leslie and I climbed Lament.
Again, interesting contrast between ancient and modern beta. In "Eleven Domes" the crux
pitch of Lament is described only briefly:
"From the left end of this ledge, climb directly up (5.10) past a bolt to another ledge."
A more recent guidebook is more specific about that rating, giving it 5.10a R/X. That would
have spooked me if I'd read it before our 1976 ascent. As it was, I did notice there was no
pro except the one bolt (out of frame at the bottom of this pic), but figured that's just what
you've got to work with. It didn't seem terrible.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jul 27, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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Feels like there's too much great stuff to comment on at one
time.
The "Eleven Domes" is what I had for my Hobbit Book ascent, too,
and one of my partners had done only one climb previously.
I used to post on ST from Chalet Neva-Care.
The 1969 was one of the most rereadable of all.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Mr. Grossman: your wish is my command!
And we need to give Chiloe big props for some amazingly clean 30+ year old slides......
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 29, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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I just wish Kodachrome had been as cheap as digital chrome is (or, I wish I'd been smarter) --
I'd have taken 100 times more photos BITD.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 29, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Bump this for climbing content!!!!
Yeah, Tarbaby!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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This section starts off with one of the best pictures ever of Royal, by Tom Frost of course...
Plus some nice photos of other guys of whom you've heard.
And besides, set yourself to reading what the clambering fuss of the day was all about!
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 14, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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That's the shot!!!
That picture of Henneck (there's a slightly different shot
which also has been published) has been haunting me for
decades.
Truly iconic, in my opinion.
Wildness, struggle, adversity...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 18, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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As I mentioned upthread, Roper's "Eleven Domes" article was my intro to the magic world of
Tuolumne. With that article in hand, we went up there in 1970. I got back again last week,
and actually repeated one of the routes we did in 1970 (and hadn't seen since) -- the Direct
NW Face of Lembert Dome. Interesting thing, it was rated 5.7 A2 in Roper's article, but now
is somewhat harder. I'll scan and post a few old pictures for comparison.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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Welcome Home Larry!
If you dig back a little bit you'll see I did a trip report on an old Colorado climb up a formation called the Piz Badille.
Okay so this is my cue to finish the magazine...
book reviews, editorial, and back cover coming right up!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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And the back cover:
Much thanks again to Dana B for donating the magazine!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 18, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Ah, the infamous Dave Dornan review of Ullman's John Harlin biography. I recall that review
brought an acid response from Dougal Haston, which probably was published in Mountain.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Good point.
And a well-written critique I would say.
Regardless, and to an independent point, for most of us this would be an epitaph worthy of aspiration:
“He was a person of great physical power who was receptive to the mountain experience, and who was, moreover, an inspired dreamer of the future project.”
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 19, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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Dornan was seemingly unaware that the Grade VI attached to
Harlin's reputation was an entirely different animal than the
Grade VI associated with Robbins.
Robbins later said in an interview that Harlin was the top
American alpinist of his day.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Bump for a great thread from Tar------art & culture! Break out the fine wines! thanks! Fritz
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Jun 22, 2010 - 05:24am PT
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BUMP
'Cuz incessant rain keeps me from the hills but this is almost as good as the real thing.
Rejoice, rejoice.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 19, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Joyous Bumpus...
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Jul 26, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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fritz sunbathing nude at 26000 feet on k2. you gotta love that sh#t. great shares here, got a few more to read but i think this deserves a real bump.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 27, 2014 - 08:07am PT
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Real people climbing real bumps and doing a real nice job of describing how it really went.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 24, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
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the whole enchilada , taco bump!
remember ...,
How this was the only info!and it was enough!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jan 24, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
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what a photo of Foraker!
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