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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 25, 2009 - 10:23am PT
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Really good scanning job on these, Tarbaby, thanks.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 25, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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I miss my PA's.....
NOT !!!
As you can see, those had the glued-and-sewn leather upgrade, as well.
I thought PAs were so bomber at the time, at least compared with my older RRs.
You could edge or jam, although the soles were kinda slick.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jul 25, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Tar: Bump for art and culture and thanks again.
RE: Eleven domes and Chiloe's comment on "too much beta."
It becomes a outdoor gym exercise, rather than adventure, when the route is exactly described and the gear needed to protect it is listed.
In the 70's, if you could find the route and knew the difficulty: you were on easy street.
In Idaho, we once climbed a new technical route on the wrong peak, thinking it was the famous "Warbonnet": because the USGS map dated from 1898 and there were no guidebooks.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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kinda slick...
"Soles of case hardened steel" as Largo once said (not an exact quote?).
But they do look purdy darn snazzy in them old photos of yours Larry.
And way better than RR's for real free climbing:
Completed my first 5.10's in them, a couple/three years past the uptake of EBs.
(nevermind Lonne climbing New Gen, 5.11, at Suicide in RRs...)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 25, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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Yeah, I switched to my "good" shoes, the EBs, next day when Leslie and I climbed Lament.
Again, interesting contrast between ancient and modern beta. In "Eleven Domes" the crux
pitch of Lament is described only briefly:
"From the left end of this ledge, climb directly up (5.10) past a bolt to another ledge."
A more recent guidebook is more specific about that rating, giving it 5.10a R/X. That would
have spooked me if I'd read it before our 1976 ascent. As it was, I did notice there was no
pro except the one bolt (out of frame at the bottom of this pic), but figured that's just what
you've got to work with. It didn't seem terrible.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jul 27, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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Feels like there's too much great stuff to comment on at one
time.
The "Eleven Domes" is what I had for my Hobbit Book ascent, too,
and one of my partners had done only one climb previously.
I used to post on ST from Chalet Neva-Care.
The 1969 was one of the most rereadable of all.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Mr. Grossman: your wish is my command!
And we need to give Chiloe big props for some amazingly clean 30+ year old slides......
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 29, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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I just wish Kodachrome had been as cheap as digital chrome is (or, I wish I'd been smarter) --
I'd have taken 100 times more photos BITD.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 29, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Bump this for climbing content!!!!
Yeah, Tarbaby!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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This section starts off with one of the best pictures ever of Royal, by Tom Frost of course...
Plus some nice photos of other guys of whom you've heard.
And besides, set yourself to reading what the clambering fuss of the day was all about!
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 14, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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That's the shot!!!
That picture of Henneck (there's a slightly different shot
which also has been published) has been haunting me for
decades.
Truly iconic, in my opinion.
Wildness, struggle, adversity...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 18, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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As I mentioned upthread, Roper's "Eleven Domes" article was my intro to the magic world of
Tuolumne. With that article in hand, we went up there in 1970. I got back again last week,
and actually repeated one of the routes we did in 1970 (and hadn't seen since) -- the Direct
NW Face of Lembert Dome. Interesting thing, it was rated 5.7 A2 in Roper's article, but now
is somewhat harder. I'll scan and post a few old pictures for comparison.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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Welcome Home Larry!
If you dig back a little bit you'll see I did a trip report on an old Colorado climb up a formation called the Piz Badille.
Okay so this is my cue to finish the magazine...
book reviews, editorial, and back cover coming right up!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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And the back cover:
Much thanks again to Dana B for donating the magazine!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 18, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Ah, the infamous Dave Dornan review of Ullman's John Harlin biography. I recall that review
brought an acid response from Dougal Haston, which probably was published in Mountain.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Good point.
And a well-written critique I would say.
Regardless, and to an independent point, for most of us this would be an epitaph worthy of aspiration:
“He was a person of great physical power who was receptive to the mountain experience, and who was, moreover, an inspired dreamer of the future project.”
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 19, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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Dornan was seemingly unaware that the Grade VI attached to
Harlin's reputation was an entirely different animal than the
Grade VI associated with Robbins.
Robbins later said in an interview that Harlin was the top
American alpinist of his day.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Bump for a great thread from Tar------art & culture! Break out the fine wines! thanks! Fritz
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Jun 22, 2010 - 05:24am PT
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BUMP
'Cuz incessant rain keeps me from the hills but this is almost as good as the real thing.
Rejoice, rejoice.
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