Given the appearance of these photos on the R&I website, especially the leading photo captioned "one for the annals", it's time to bring the "Latok I Climb Without a Summit" thread back to the forefront.
I wish the weather was as good today here in Squamish as it was when I took that picture on Latok.
We started climbing in the initial snow/ice gully at midnight to avoid sun triggered avalanches. At dawn we traversed onto good granite and climbed to the ledge pictured above in perfect weather. The weather was so good we slept out in the open for that first night on the route. The next day we moved up to another ledge, saw the high cirrus coming in, set up our tents, and hunkered down for what was to be a six day storm.
I was 17 years old and had been climbing for 5 years when I read this issue. Dumfounded and inspired by the A team. Later in life I named my climbing shop Alpine Style. What a true definition of 4 brave Alpinists. Cheers,
I just saw Donini's slide show at COR last Monday; it was quite good. It was fun to see a generator powered slide show outdoors at the group cam. It started after sunset, so it kept me awake past my 9 PM bedtime but it was worth it.